The Grand Canyon, North Rim, Arizona, Part 1

Leaving Holbrook, Arizona, I traveled I40 west to US 89 near Flagstaff.  The drive on US 89 north is scenic with views of mountain ridges in the distance for long intervals.  The scenery gets better on US 89 A with good views of the Vermillion Cliffs.  I stopped by the Navajo Bridge over Marble Canyon, walked across the pedestrian bridge and made a few mid-day photos, none of which turned out very well.

The drive westward from the Navajo Bridge has good, close up views of the Vermillion Cliffs.  I did not take time in the mid-day to stop for photographs.  I hope to get back to this area in the future and have more time to linger and perhaps get a few photographs, when lighting conditions are more favorable.

About 30 miles from Marble Canyon, Arizona, US 89A begins to climb into a mountainous area.  The road becomes steep and curvy, requiring reduced speed.

I arrived at Demotte Campground in the Kaibab National Forest early,  but my reserved site was empty, so I was allowed an early check in.

There are no electric or water hookup in this campground.  There is potable water available in the campground, so one can fill water containers via those water spigots, but not RV tanks.  I had plenty of bottled water and a full water reservoir, so I had no reason to use or to check out the local water.

Since there was no electric, I installed my solar panels on my roof rack, mounting them flat this time, rather than trying to angle them in any particular direction.  It was cloudy and rainy much of the time that I was there, so the solar panels did not keep the house batteries fully charged all the time.  A few times, I had to resort to running my engine either early in the mornings or late in the day to top off the batteries and/or to run the inverter for short periods of time.  My batteries are also several years old and I suspect they do not hold a charge as well as new ones would and I will probably have to invest in new batteries within a year.

The campsite hosts were friendly and helpful, they kept the campground looking good and the restrooms (no showers, just pit toilets) were perhaps the cleanest and best maintained that I have seen.  Although, I have to say that all of the campsites at which I’ve stayed in U.S. National Forest have been well maintained.

The campsites are closer to each other than I like, but the campsites on either side of mine were often vacant.

The weather was mild during our stay in this area with cool nights and warm, humid days.  The nighttime temperatures were mostly in the upper 50s (degF) and the daytime high temps in the 70s to low 80s.

My son and DIL arrived not long after I got set up.  After they settled in and had dinner, we drove into the park.  The campground was about 12 miles outside of the park boundary and the park is large, so it required fairly long drives to get to anywhere in the park.  Staying within the park would have been preferable, but one has to reserve the park facilities far in advance, as this is a very popular place.

Our first stop was at the visitor center area, where we took a short, steep hike down a trail from the parking lot.  I made several photos during the hike, but only one looked worth sharing.

Dead Tree and Cloudy Background

This bare, dead tree with sunlight highlights made a stark image with the background clouds.

My experience along this short trail revealed that  getting good photographs of the canyon would not be easy.  One would think that something as grand and scenic as The Grand Canyon would be an easy place to get great photos, but the vastness of the canyon and the limited, accessible places for getting a clear view of the canyon with interesting foreground, makes it difficult to photograph well.

More later,

Ken

 

 

 

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona, July 2021, Part 1

The last stop on my route to the Grand Canyon North Rim in July 2021 was the Petrified Forest National Park.  There is an exit to this national park from I40, but I elected to go into Holbrook, Arizona and go to the south entrance, since there is an RV site just outside the park entrance there.  That RV site does not take reservations, so I wanted to be sure to get there early to increase my chance of getting a site.  There are actually two places across the road from each other here, where RV’s can park.  One site is free, first come, first serve, but has no hookups.  The other has electric hook up, but no water.  I did not need a water hookup, but I wanted electric, since I expected it to be hot and I wanted to be able to use my A/C or, or at least a fan.

I pulled into the Petrified Forest Gift Shop and RV Park and went into the gift shop to secure a site.  Some of the reviews that I had read about this site said the staff were unfriendly, but I did not find that to be the case.  Instead, I would characterize the two staff/owners as matter of fact and business like.  They were not the bubbly personality types we’ve all come to expect at tourist lodgings, motels and hotels, but they were not unfriendly.

I jokingly requested a site with shade and was matter of factly told that there was no shade.  I had noted that fact already.  There are scattered trees around the edge of the RV parking area, but the vegetation on the trees is insufficient to provide any significant shade at any time of the day.

After getting my assigned site, I drove into the park for a quick tour.  This park has gates at the entrances that open at 8AM and close at 5PM, so there is no way in the summer to be anywhere in this park for sunset or sunrise photography.

The visitor center is not far from the entrance and I stopped here, but I did not go in, since I was practicing “social distancing” during the COVID-19 pandemic.  I picked up a guide brochure from an outside location behind the visitor center and proceeded to walk the paths.  There were a substantial number of visitors, but not so many that one could not maintain a suitable distance from others.

Since it was mid-day with harsh overhead light, I elected not to carry around my heavy DSLR and to shoot with my iPhone camera.  I do not even pretend to have great photos from this park.

Summer Learning

There appear to be educational opportunities here and this seems to be a good place for lessons in the geological history of this area.

Big Petrified Tree

The base of the petrified tree in the photo above is about 10 feet in diameter.  This is a clear indication of the size of the trees in the prehistoric forest that was once here.

Petrified Log Sections

Indeed, the size of the petrified logs here is impressive.

Petrified Log Sections
Petrified Log Sections

What a magnificent forest this must have been!

Observers

I noted a little girl and her dog watching me, so I had to include them in a photo.

Cactus and Petrified Log Sections
Petrified Tree

Satisfied that I had seen everything behind the visitor center, I decided to hike to the “Agate House”, which was mentioned in the brochure.  The Agate House is little over a mile from the visitor center.  It was hot, but, with the temperature in the low 90s, not nearly as hot as I had expected for this time of the year.  I took a bottle of cold water with me to be sure I did not get dehydrated.  The hike is an easy one and is on a paved trail.  The first portion of the hike is on the remnant of an asphalt road, which ends at what used to be a parking area, then the trail continues on a narrower path to the house.

Along the route, I caught a glimpse of a colorful desert creature moving amid the rocks beside the trail.

Collared Lizard

Fortunately, this colorful lizard remained perched on a rock just long enough for me to get a good photo before it disappeared into the jumble of broken petrified tree pieces.

Petrified Jumble
Agate House

The Agate House is actually a partially restored Native American dwelling.  The restoration was done via a works program during the Great Depression.  Current practice is to leave ruins as they are found, rather than to attempt reconstruction.

Agate House

I returned to my vehicle at the visitor center parking lot and continued my quick tour of this park.

More later,

Ken

Caprock Canyon State Park, Texas, July, 2021, Part 1

I’ve driven past a sign for Caprock Canyon State Park on US 287 in northwestern Texas numerous times on my way to some western destination.  So when planning my July, 2021 trip to the Grand Canyon North Rim, I decided to make this my first stop over along a different route than I would normally take.

I departed US 287 in the tiny town of Estelline, Texas heading west on Texas Route 86, traveling through an unfamiliar part of rural Texas.  I noted that the countryside looked exceptionally green with lots of thick, green grass along the edge of the roadway, green pastures and farm fields with water filled low areas.  Evidently, there had been more than the normal rainfall in this area recently.

Even though I had mapped out my route, the drive on this narrow, backroad route was slower and seemed longer than I had anticipated.  There was little traffic, but the speed limit was much lower than the 75mph on the more substantial routes.

I passed through a number of very small towns and/or rural communities, stopping in Turkey, Texas to top off my tank at the only filling station in town, since I did not know when I would see another convenient filling station.

As I came into Turkey, I noted a prominent sign proclaiming Turkey to be the birthplace of Bob Wills, a famous and early Country and Western performer, with the group “Bob Wills and his Texas Playboys”.  Bob Wills was one of the featured performers in the Ken Burn’s “Country Music” documentary on PBS.  I had heard some of his music on radio in my early childhood.

Faded Love (on the front name plate of the bus).

Perhaps the best remembered piece by Bob Wills and his Texas Playboys is “San Antonio Rose”, which has been performed by many others.

Continuing on my way, I soon came into Quitaque, Texas.  I had to look up the proper way to pronounce the name of this town.  The locals pronounce it “Kitty Quay” and there is even this pronunciation indicated on signs on either side of the route through the town.  The name reportedly comes from a Native American  word meaning “end of the trail”, which is fitting for this portion of my journey.

Quitaque is a picturesque little Texas town and I noted several items of interest on my way through town and on the short stretch of roadway from town to the entrance to Caprock Canyon State Park.  I did not take time to stop on my way to the park, but I was determined to take time for photographs the next day, before I continued my journey.  More on this in the next post, but here are teasers:

Mobil Gas Pegasus
Bicycles and Boots decorate a Texas ranch fence line

I had checked into my campsite online, but I stopped in the park headquarters on my way in just to be sure I did not need to do anything else.  The park ranger, warned me to keep my distance from the Bison and that they were free roaming and might wander into my campsite.

As I left the headquarters on my way to my campsite, I noted quite a few bison, but I did not stop to photograph them, thinking I would have plenty of opportunity for that later and I’ve seen plenty of bison previously.  There are even bison ranches in this part of Texas, but the herd here is the only free roaming herd in Texas.

In the campground there is a prairie dog town near the restroom facility.  The prairie dogs would bark a warning, whenever anyone walked along the walkway towards the restroom, most would scamper into their underground dens, while one seemed to keep watch.

The restroom facilities here are old and in great need of updating.  This seems to be a popular park, as there were many RVs in the campground.  So it seems to me that upgrading the park facilities would be a priority.  I’ve since written e-mails to the Texas State Representative and Senator for this area, pointing out the need to put forth a better image for such a popular state park.

A recent Texas state ballot issue was approved to address the lack of funding for state parks.  A previously targeted method  for funding Texas Parks and Wildlife existed, but the state found other ways to use that money, rather than use it for its intended purpose.  It remains to be seen, if the recent effort will result in much needed maintenance and updating of Texas State Park facilities or if our elected state officials will divert those funds, maybe to use in totally useless audits of the previous federal election in some districts or to sue school districts that want to require students and employees to wear masks during the current COVID-19 pandemic.

There is a hiking trail originating from my campground, so I decided to head out late in the day, hoping to find some photographic opportunities.  I hiked for some distance along the trail, eventually going down a steep slope into a canyon, but I did not find anything I considered photo worthy.  I did not even see a bison, although there were plenty of indications that they had been in this area.  There were also many irritating flying insects, mostly large biting flies and I had not even thought to put on insect repellant or bring any in my day pack, since there were few insects buzzing around the campground and mosquitoes are seldom a problem in this part of Texas.

I eventually decided there was no compelling reason to hike any further along this trail, so I turned back, taking a different branch back towards the campground.

There were some wildflowers scattered around and as I walked along scanning the area, often looking at the near trail wildflowers, I heard a very distinct sound that immediately increased my heart rate.

Trail Hazard

I stopped in my tracks and looked up.  A few feet in front of me a rattlesnake was stretched across the trail issuing a warning.  For all the times that I’ve hiked in wild areas, this is the first time I’ve encountered a rattlesnake.  My camera was strapped to my backpack, so I tried to pull my iPhone from my pocket to get a shot, as the snake moved to the side of the trail and kept an eye on me for a few moments.  By the time I got my phone out, it had already begun to disappear into the vegetation along the trail.  So the image above is all I managed to get.

After this encounter, I was much more vigilant for the rest of my hike.

To be continued,

Ken

 

Bisti Wilderness, June 2021, Part 10

Pre-Sunrise, Bisti, June 8, 2021, AM

My son and I were out early again in Bisti waiting for sunrise.  We had to hike about 2 miles to get to our destinations each day of our visit, so for sunrise we were initially hiking in the dark on the way out.  After sunset photos, we could sometime hike all the way back to the parking lot without light, but sometimes we needed our headlamps for at least a portion of the hike back.

Pre-Sunrise, Bisti, June 8, 2021, AM
Pre-Sunrise, Bisti, June 8, 2021, AM

We were back in the area of the “Michelin Tire/Nefertiti Crown” and “Shark or “Surfboard” (our nicknames) hoodoos and I managed to get a few decent compositions here, while waiting for sunrise.

Bisti Jumble, Pre-Sunrise in Bisti, June 8, 2021, AM

I usually try to compose photos with multiple objects, such as those in the above photo, so that there is separation between all the objects, but sometime I could find no way to completely separate them.

Behind the Shark, Pre-Sunrise, Bisti, June 8, 2021, AM
Nefertiti’s Crown Hoodoo, Bisti, June 8, 2021, AM

I shot the Nefertiti Crown hoodoo again in sunrise light, but with a wider angle view this time.  Nefertiti’s shadow is still falling on the “Shark”.

Bisti, June 8, 2021, AM

From the point of view in the above photo, I got the shadow from the low, tilted hoodoo in the foreground that it cast upon the base of the Shark Hoodoo.  Note that Nefertiti’s Crown Hoodoo looks completely different from this point of view, hence my initial nickname of “Lumpy Hoodoo”.

Morning Breaks, Bisti, June 8, 2021, AM

“Morning Breaks” is my favorite from this batch and I had to use multiple exposures blended via HDR software to get this one.  Although, “Behind the Shark” is a close second and “Bisti Jumble” comes in close behind that.

More later,

Ken

Bisti Wilderness, June 2021, Part 9

In the Heart of Bisti, June 7, 2021, AM

The drainage pattern in the foreground is in an heart like shape, hence the title for this photo.

Bisti, June 7, 2021, AM

A row of small hoodoos along a thin wall in a Bisti valley.  Getting low isolates two of the hoodoos against the sky.

Bisti, June 7, 2021, AM

A little different view of the same row of hoodoos.  Shooting from a higher angle shows the early morning shadows of small foreground hoodoos.

Bisti, June 7, 2021, AM

Looking skyward up a steep slope of loose clay towards features on the top of the slope.

Bisti, June 7, 2021, AM
Desert Ship, Bisti, June 7, 2021, AM

The feature on top of the hill above, looks like an old ship’s hull to me.

Skinny Hoodoo, Bisti, June 7, 2021, AM

We first spotted the tall, skinny looking hoodoo in the photo above from a far distance and initially thought it too far away and inaccessible, but we later found a way to get to it.  This feature is actually visible in the far background of at least two other images in this post.  I will leave it to readers to find it in those images.

Once we got to the base of this ‘Skinny” hoodoo, we realized that it was only skinny looking from one angle.

Skinny Hoodoo Side View, Bisti, June 7, 2021, AM

A view from another side looking along the hilltop where this hoodoo resides, shows that it is not really skinny at all.

Skinny Hoodoo, Bisti, June 7, 2021, AM

Another view of the “Skinny” hoodoo (left side).

After getting to the Skinny Hoodoo, we also found a shorter route into the area where we had been shooting by walking through valleys and washes back towards the west.

More later,

Ken

Bisti Wilderness, June 2021, Part 8

Sunrise, Bisti, June 6, 2021, AM

The first image in this post is an HDR made from multiple exposures, since it would be impossible to get a single exposure with detail in the foreground and background here.

Nefertiti Crown, Bisti, June 6, 2021, AM

My son called this the Michelin Tire Hoodoo, but one of my Flickr friends and former work colleague said this looked like Nefertiti’s crown and I like that description.  We referred to the flat wing like hoodoo in the background as either a shark or a surf board.

Shark Hoodoo, Bisti, June 6, 2021, AM

The shark hoodoo was difficult to photograph and it was always partially in the shadow of the Nefertiti Crown Hoodoo.

Lumpy Hoodoo, Bisti, June 6, 2021, AM

From a distance, seeing this hoodoo for the first time, I named it Lumpy, but a closer view makes it look more like some big mouth creature and it is actually the same as Nefertiti’s Crown from a different side.  The features here can take on very different aspects, depending upon the view point.

Bisti, June 7, 2021, AM

A group of distinct hoodoos in pre-sunrise light (above).  The feature on the far right looks like an alien creature and near the middle are those we called the Triplets.  We photographed around this location multiple times from various view points at different time of the day.

Bisti, June 7, 2021, AM
Bisti, June 7, 2021, AM

Another view of the Alien and the Triplets.  I like the foreground in this view.

Even more Bisti to come,

Ken

 

 

Bisti Wilderness, June 2021, Part 7, Monochrome Photos

Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM

Even though I much prefer golden hour color in my landscape photography, I find that there are light conditions and/or scenes that work better in monochrome.

Sometimes it is just the textures, patterns or shadows that make an image look better in monochrome.  In the case of the photo above, the early morning colors were so intensely saturated that I thought those colors looked unreal, so I converted the image to black and white and I much prefer this look in this particular case. (Best viewed on Flickr and on a large screen).

Bisti, June 6, 2021, AM

Usually, I like monochrome for those images that I capture a little after the sunrise golden hour or a little before sunset golden hour.

Pre-Sunrise, Bisti, June 7, 2021, AM

In the image above, the sun had not yet come up, but shooting towards the early morning sky made this a better situation for monochrome.

Bisti, June 7, 2021, AM

The same is true for the image above.  I have mixed feelings about this composition, not about the monochrome.  I liked the look of the heavily textured, clay soil in the foreground and the gullies seemed to make good leading lines into the background, but is this a compelling photo?  Opinions are welcomed, but please view on Flickr and on a large screen.

Bisti, June 8, 2021, PM

The readers can tell by the dates on the photos  that I visited this area on separate dates and different times of the day, hoping to get different photographic conditions and/or to shoot from different view points.  In the image above I wanted to show context for the natural bridge in the center, but I also wanted its shadow against the background features.

Bisti, June 8, 2021, PM

I wanted a wide angle view here and the light and shadows were best for a monochrome image.  This is a result of focus stacking multiple images.  A careful inspection of the clouds in the sky makes it apparent that there were multiple images used here.  I could have easily replaced the sky with that from a single image, but I liked the indicated movement of the clouds, so I left this feature.

Bisti, June 8, 2021, PM
Bisti, June 8, 2021, PM

These last two images are not great, but I still like them, particularly the bottom one, with the subtle shadow of the most prominent feature on the background.  I suppose I could have enhanced this image to make the shadow less subtle.

I hope readers are not getting bored with Bisti, because there are more post on the way,

Ken

 

Bisti Wilderness, June 2021, Part 6

Continued from Part 5.

Sunrise Light, Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM
Light and Shadow, Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM
Early Morning in Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM
Light Beam, Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM
Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM

As the sun gets a little higher in the morning sky, the colors begin to wash out.

Long Hoodoo Shadow, Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM

Even in the brighter light, there can be interesting shadows cast by the hoodoos.

Hoodoo and Shadow, Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM

More Bisti later,

Ken

Bisti Wilderness, June 2021, Part 5

Waiting for Sunrise, Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM

Most of the rocks and geological features in the Bisti Wilderness are dull under bright sunlight, but in the early morning and late day light these features seem to come alive with color.  At these times one can get landscape photographs with soft pastels or bright, golden hues.

Golden Hour Begins, Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM
Golden Hour, Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM
Sunrise Light, Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM
Sunrise Light, Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM
Sunrise Light, Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM
Sunrise Light, Bisti, June 4, 2021, AM

To be continued,

Ken

Bisti Wilderness, June 2021, Part 4, Cloudy Sunset in The Nursery

A popular area for visitors to Bisti is called “The Nursery”, where there are unique rock shapes that are referred to as “Cracked Eggs”.

The Nursery, Bisti, June 3, 2021, PM

It was very overcast this evening in The Nursery, so there was very little golden hour light; but the heavy clouds were great for creating dramatic photographs.

Cracked Eggs, Bisti, June 3, 2021, PM
The Nursery, Bisti, June 3, 2021, PM
The Nursery, Bisti, June 3, 2021, PM
The Nursery, Bisti, June 3, 2021, PM

More later,

Ken