I had decided to shoot at one of the overlooks in Badlands National Park my first morning here, but when I arrive at that destination, I did not like the view and proceeded down the roadway to another pullout. That pullout was intended as an overview of an area to the north, but I climbed a grassy slope on the opposite side of the roadway, anticipating better sunrise lighting on the features on that side of the roadway. That is, if there was a sunrise this heavily overcast morning, after a storm came through during the night.
Sky NotchOvercast RidgeDark MorningInto the Badlands
Looks like no golden hour this morning, but the clouds are dramatic.
Into the Badlands 2
With the sun just barely peeking through the heavily overcast horizon, I decided to move on down that roadway and look for other photographic opportunities.
Clearing Storm Clouds over BadlandsHitchhikerPastel MorningMorning SpotlightMorning ColorBadland MorningBadlands MeanderMirrored
After arriving at the park, I drove along the main park roadway for a while to scout possible sunset photos today and sunrise for the next morning. Then I began to look for my planned camping area, driving a long way down a dusty, washboarded roadway that went to the camping area, which I had found via an online search for camping in the area of the park. Eventually, I decided that the time it was taking for me to get to my planned camping area was going to be a problem for travel back and forth for sunset and sunrise photography. Even though the distance might not be great, the road conditions required slow travel speed. So I detoured off that rough road and began to look for other possibilities.
I found an online reference to another campsite just off of South Dakota Route 240 between Walls and the park, so I set out to find that site. Before I found the site I was looking for, I again noted campers set up on higher elevation to the east of the roadway. I had seen those on my initial pass though this area, but I had not seen a way to get to the area where those campers were set up.
I began to pay closer attention to that side of Route 240 and I soon found an inconspicuous, grassy, dirt roadway heading into the grasslands. I took that trail, hoping it would take me to a camping area, soon coming to campers set up and/or leaving. I stopped to inquire about this area with one camper that was on the way out. He assured me that there were plenty of free campsite along this roadway, higher up on the hillside.
I continued on, finding many good campsites. I later found a second roadway into this area, just a short distance from the park entrance, with a sign designating this area as Buffalo Gap National Grasslands.
There are some campsites right on the edge of a sharp drop off into badlands that are outside of the main park area. I picked one of these that was level enough that no leveling of my vehicle was required.
A view from Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, South Dakota, September 15, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo
After having a late lunch in my vehicle, I walked around to scout the views from the camping area across the broad area below and to the west of the campground.
A view of an area adjacent to Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, South Dakota, September 15, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo
I found a few places where I thought I might use my 80-400mm lens to shoot down into the adjacent badlands, which were outside the main park area.
One of the problems with driving a camper vehicle, is losing a campsite in these first come first serve areas, if one leaves the campsite even for a short time. I did not want to lose this campsite and I had not scouted enough in the park to locate a good sunset shoot location and there was a storm brewing, so I decide to get by with shooting from the campsite area and get out early the next morning for sunrise photography.
My shots with the big lens are not great and are a bit flat, but here are a few for the record.
Semicircle, View from Buffalo Gap National Grasslands camping area.A wider angle view of the area around the semicircle in the upper rightDistant Cloud Shadows and Near Sunlight, View from Buffalo Gap National Grasslands camping area.Golden Hour and Shadows, View from Buffalo Gap National Grasslands camping area.
These photos may not be very impressive, but the geology shown in these is impressive. One can see the flat grassy areas that are eroding away revealing the layers of rock beneath the flat surfaces.
As I was finishing my late day shoot, a bunny rabbit hopped between me and my final composition. This little guy did not seem exceptionally concerned about my presence, but was nevertheless cautious and uncertain about my possible threat. It sat still as if hoping not to be seen, as it blended in well with the background, while I snapped an iPhone camera image.
These photos reveal how the cloud cover increased as I was shooting. There was a storm front coming in and I felt a few drops of rain, so I wrapped up my shoot and headed back to my campsite.
The wind picked up considerably as the storm came through. I could see lightening to the west and east, but other than gusty winds, the storm never came over the campsite. I was able to get a weak phone signal, sufficient to consult the weather channel and view the radar, which showed the major portion of the storm to the west and east and did not show any significant danger of thunderstorms over the campsite.
I tried sleeping in the penthouse, watching the distant lightening in the west and east. The gusty wind resulted in my putting the penthouse down as a precaution and sleeping down below. The gusty winds kept me awake for a significant portion of the night. I had already decided that another day here was not justified, so I decided to sleep a little longer, to be better rested for my drive to Badlands National Park, rather than go out for sunrise photography.
After leaving the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, my next primary destination was Toadstool Geologic Area in Nebraska. Since the drive between these two destinations was long, I had plans to break up that drive with a couple of overnight stops along the way.
I stopped in Kansas at Lake Scott State Park the first night. The campground is adjacent to a lake with hills surrounding it, which I had hoped would be scenic enough for a few good photographs. I was disappointed. The campground was ok, but nothing special. The park is old, in need of updating, the lake was not scenic and some facilities, such as docks, were in great disrepair. Long grass and weeds along part of the lake had been recently cut, but the clippings were littering the grounds and walkways. It did not appear that the caretakers were concerned with the general appearance of the park.
My second planned overnight was a dispersed and free camping area at Clear Creek State Wildlife Management Area along the North Platte River in Nebraska. When I checked the weather report for that area there were warning of severe thunderstorms and I knew from research into this site that rain might render the dirt roads into the area impassable. I decided it best to bypass that site and make a long drive on to Toadstool Geologic area.
There are only six first come, first serve campsites at Toadstool. I wanted to arrive early enough in the day that there might still be campsites available. This is the main reason that I had not initially planned to drive directly from Lake Scott, Kansas to Toadstool. If I arrived late in the day and the campsites were taken, I would have to backtrack to other possible sites, with no guarantee of finding a place to stay nearby.
The final stretch of roadway into Toadstool is a 16 mile gravel roadway. That roadway was rough and extremely washboarded, when I drove in, requiring slow driving.
Luckily, when I arrived at the campsite, there were at least 4 sites available. I had planned to stay two nights here, but it was hotter than usual here with daytime temperatures in the nineties. Nighttime temperatures drop into the upper fifties, making for comfortable sleeping. There are no water or electric hookups here. I had plenty of water, but electric would have been good to have with such hot daytime temperatures.
I decided that having to hang out during the heat of the day would not be pleasant, so I only registered for one night. If, after exploring the area, I decided another day would be beneficial, I could always extend my stay.
After registering at the campsite kiosk, I finished setting up my van for the overnight stay, raising the penthouse and opening all the vents, opening the side and back doors to allow air to circulate through to help reduce the inside temperature.
In the meantime, others arrived and soon all the sites were taken. It was fortunate that I did not arrive any later this afternoon.
I had plenty of time prior to sunset, so I hiked into the area around the campsite to scout locations for photography. I found a few possible location in the hillsides to the south, but none of those really appealed to me. Eventually, coming back down into the valley below the hillsides to the west of the campground, I found interesting features and decided this was the best place to return for sunset and maybe even sunrise.
King of the Hill
When I returned to the area I had chosen for sunset photography there were a few young people and a photographer, shooting what I think were engagement photos, that I had to work around. Eventually, that group left and I had the place to myself.
Supporter or OppressorSupporting Cast
I shot a number of images of the rock features with variation on the compositions and the clouds moving overhead.
Since my arrival in the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, I had seen numerous free roaming bison, but they were always too far away and/or laying about in grass, so that I could not get good photos. As I was leaving today, I hoped that I would spot more bison in situations where I could capture a few descent images. I already had my 80-400mm lens with a 1.4 extender mounted to my camera, just in case.
Indeed, I did begin to see bison as I drove along one of the refuge roadways on my way to the exit. However, these were again too far away to successfully photograph.
Finally, I came to a location where I could see bison behind a fenced off area. The bison were close enough to the fence line that I could photograph them, but I would have to hike across an open field to get to the fence. As I prepared to do that, I noted a group of bison on my side of the fence. Going to the fence line would put me too close to those bison, so I had to nix my plans.
Scanning the area, I noted a small herd of bison on the opposite side of the roadway that were far enough away that I could stand beside my van and photograph those. Initially, I tried handholding my big lens, but that proved difficult and awkward, so I mounted it on my tripod. I began to shoot that small herd and watched as they slowly walked in my direction.
Grazing
I soon realized they were heading directly towards me and were soon going to be too close for comfort. I quickly retreated into my van, dragging my tripod and camera behind me.
By the time I was safely inside my van, there were bison crossing the roadway just in front of and just behind my vehicle. I began to photograph the bison from inside my vehicle.
Crossing Guard
The bison did not seem to be concerned about my presence, but the one above stopped to stare at me or my vehicle.
Follow MeResoluteWatchfulBison FamilySecurityGot a Tissue?Got Insect Repellent?Walking in Tall GrassBleh
After the bison had wandered away a safe distance, I started my van and continued on my way.
Having found no better and more convenient place for sunset photography during my mid-day exploration of the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, I decided to hike back to Little Baldy again for sunset.
Wild Turkey in campground
I had already seen a flock of wild turkeys wandering freely and nonchalantly around the campground and as I left my campsite, I noted a dozen or more along my route. I had already mounted my wide angle lens and had no other lens with me, so I could not get a close up photo of these wild birds.
Wild Turkey in campground
These photos are not very good, but I wanted to include these as documentation of the wildlife in this area. These wild turkey do not seem to be bothered much by humans, although they will scurry away, when approached too closely. I suppose their lack of great fear of humans is a result of this being a wildlife refuge, where no hunting is permitted and contact with humans is common.
When I arrived at Little Baldy, I worked my way around to the western side and picked my way up the slope, looking for different view points from which to shoot today.
Little Baldy western slope in sunset light
From atop a large granite feature, I shot along the edge of Little Baldy as the sun sank low in the sky. Then I worked my way towards the top of Little Baldy.
Sunset on Little BaldyPost Sunset on Little Baldy
The sun was already sinking below the horizon, when I got near the top of Little Baldy. I managed to snap a few photos before the golden hour ended, but most were similar, even though I tried moving around as fast as I could to get various perspectives.
Possibly, I might have gotten better and more varied shots, had I gone to the top first, rather than shooting from the side of Little Baldy.
Tomorrow I will begin the next leg of my journey towards my primary destination of this road trip.
On my way to Mount Scott, I had passed a couple of old homes that I planned to try to shoot as I backtracked from Mount Scott. The first old home sat far back from the roadway and looked like an interesting photographic subject. I would have to walk to it to get shots. As I prepared to walk towards the run down old home, I noted a number of free roaming bison and long horn cattle in the vicinity, making approaching that house too risky. So I drove on to the next place.
Ferguson House
Well, this house does not look old, does it? It was built in 1927, but has been reconstructed. Follow the links for more information. The little rounded building behind the house covers a water storage tank. I attempted to get close up photos of the tank and its covering structure, but none of those photos were good enough to share.
The little house in the right background is a mystery. It is just an empty shell, built on a concrete foundation and does not look very old.
There is a covered pavilion on the property with posters giving information about the early history of this area.
I shot the house from numerous view points, but the one in this post is the best image.
Ferguson House Marker
This marker is near the front of the home lot.
Other than the historical significance of the early homesteaders in this area, I found little of real photographic interest here.
With my DSLR in hand, I began a more extensive exploration around the summit of Mount Scott.
Branching Artist
Since I was passing this interesting tree again, I had to shoot it with my DSLR, trying to get variations on my initial iPhone scouting photos.
Reaching LimbsRolling HillsGranite AlleyMade in the ShadeForced Shade
I know these three photos are similar, but this unique tree shading the granite rock, inspired a number of thoughts and offered numerous compositional variations. I couldn’t decide which image I liked best, so here are several of my favorites.
Accommodating TreeDon’t do this.
Please do not deface nature’s beauty to express your primitive desires. There are many other ways to express your admiration of someone that will be much more meaningful, appreciated and will not be an assault upon others’ enjoyment of our natural environment.
The heart shaped rock perched at the top of Little Baldy caught my eye. I positioned myself to shoot up the rock fracture towards that rock. Working my way around this area, I discovered that the large, curved rock in the bottom right of this image forms a bridge over the rock below it. I tried to get very low and shoot through the bridge, but I was not successful getting photos that adequately revealed what I was trying to capture.
