The Grand Canyon, North Rim, Arizona, Part 1

Leaving Holbrook, Arizona, I traveled I40 west to US 89 near Flagstaff.  The drive on US 89 north is scenic with views of mountain ridges in the distance for long intervals.  The scenery gets better on US 89 A with good views of the Vermillion Cliffs.  I stopped by the Navajo Bridge over Marble Canyon, walked across the pedestrian bridge and made a few mid-day photos, none of which turned out very well.

The drive westward from the Navajo Bridge has good, close up views of the Vermillion Cliffs.  I did not take time in the mid-day to stop for photographs.  I hope to get back to this area in the future and have more time to linger and perhaps get a few photographs, when lighting conditions are more favorable.

About 30 miles from Marble Canyon, Arizona, US 89A begins to climb into a mountainous area.  The road becomes steep and curvy, requiring reduced speed.

I arrived at Demotte Campground in the Kaibab National Forest early,  but my reserved site was empty, so I was allowed an early check in.

There are no electric or water hookup in this campground.  There is potable water available in the campground, so one can fill water containers via those water spigots, but not RV tanks.  I had plenty of bottled water and a full water reservoir, so I had no reason to use or to check out the local water.

Since there was no electric, I installed my solar panels on my roof rack, mounting them flat this time, rather than trying to angle them in any particular direction.  It was cloudy and rainy much of the time that I was there, so the solar panels did not keep the house batteries fully charged all the time.  A few times, I had to resort to running my engine either early in the mornings or late in the day to top off the batteries and/or to run the inverter for short periods of time.  My batteries are also several years old and I suspect they do not hold a charge as well as new ones would and I will probably have to invest in new batteries within a year.

The campsite hosts were friendly and helpful, they kept the campground looking good and the restrooms (no showers, just pit toilets) were perhaps the cleanest and best maintained that I have seen.  Although, I have to say that all of the campsites at which I’ve stayed in U.S. National Forest have been well maintained.

The campsites are closer to each other than I like, but the campsites on either side of mine were often vacant.

The weather was mild during our stay in this area with cool nights and warm, humid days.  The nighttime temperatures were mostly in the upper 50s (degF) and the daytime high temps in the 70s to low 80s.

My son and DIL arrived not long after I got set up.  After they settled in and had dinner, we drove into the park.  The campground was about 12 miles outside of the park boundary and the park is large, so it required fairly long drives to get to anywhere in the park.  Staying within the park would have been preferable, but one has to reserve the park facilities far in advance, as this is a very popular place.

Our first stop was at the visitor center area, where we took a short, steep hike down a trail from the parking lot.  I made several photos during the hike, but only one looked worth sharing.

Dead Tree and Cloudy Background

This bare, dead tree with sunlight highlights made a stark image with the background clouds.

My experience along this short trail revealed that  getting good photographs of the canyon would not be easy.  One would think that something as grand and scenic as The Grand Canyon would be an easy place to get great photos, but the vastness of the canyon and the limited, accessible places for getting a clear view of the canyon with interesting foreground, makes it difficult to photograph well.

More later,

Ken

 

 

 

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona, July 2021, Part 2

I continued my whirlwind tour of the Petrified Forest National Park, driving the park road and stoping at a number of pull outs, trail areas and overlooks.

Mineralized
Colorful Sediment

It was monsoon season in this part of the country.  There was evidence of recent rains, heavy water runoff, cloudy sky was common.  Distant rainfall is seen in the photo above.

Flowering Desert
Long Petrified Log
Wildflowers and Petrified Log Sections
Mineralized

Mineral crystals replaced the original tree fabric, often preserving the detail of the original tree.

Cross Section
Petrified Forest National Park Panorama

This is a vast park with wide open desert vistas and colorful geological features.

Petrified Forest National Forest
Colorful Sediment

The view from this pull out might be the most beautiful within this park.

Painted Desert
Teepees
Eroding

It was getting late in the day and I had seen numerous signs in the park reminding visitors of the closing time.  It was already past the time suggested for visitors to head for the exits.

As I approached the south exit, I saw that the gate was already closed and for a moment I was concerned that I was going to be stuck in the park.  However, the gate would open for those approaching from within the park, so I could get out after hours, but not get back into the park, outside of the open hours.  I had wondered about the possibility of remaining within the park for sunset or night photography, but apparently the rangers make a sweep through the park to be sure no one remains for long after the closing time.

I arrived at my RV site and found that no one else was there and it was past the gift shop closing time, so I assumed I would be alone here tonight.  Although it was not excessively hot, the sun was still high above the western horizon and it was apparent that my vehicle would heat up quickly with no shade and would require some time to cool to a comfortable temperature for sleeping.  So I decided to drive the twenty plus miles into Holbrook, find a place for dinner and maybe a beer.

I had noted a restaurant called the Butterfield Stage Co Steak House as I was passing through on my way to the park.  So I decided to check it out.

It was warm in the restaurant, so apparently they either did not have A/C or it was not working well or to save on electricity it was set to a rather warm temperature.

The staff (only seemed to be two) were friendly and courteous.  I had my mind set on a steak, but when I looked over the menu, the steaks were all much larger than I could possible consume, so I decided upon Shrimp Scampi, house salad and bottled beer.  I had hoped to find a local brew on draft, but only common bottled beers were available.  The beer was good, but not as cold as I liked.  The food was good and more expensive than I expected.  The online reviews were mixed, some raved about this place other condemned it.  I liked the western decor, folksy feeling, friendly low key staff and the food.  I would give it a high rating, except for the prices, uncomfortably warm temperature and cool beer.

After dinner, I topped off my fuel tank before heading back to my RV site.  When I arrived at my site, the sun had just set with a good sunset view from the parking lot.  At first, I thought I had pulled into the wrong site, since there was a young female having lunch at the picnic table at my site.  I double checked the site number to be sure I was at the right place then got out and greeted the picnicker. She asked if I had this site reserved. When I affirmed that I did she apologized, saying she just wanted to watch the sunset, while having her dinner.  I assured her that I was not bothered by her having her meal there.  As she gathered her food, I suggested she might as well use one of the other available picnic tables, since no other RVs were there, but she moved back to her vehicle.  Maybe I looked like a really scary person, but I think she was just being careful, as one traveling alone should be.  She was apparently car camping and her vehicle was still there in the early morning, as I headed out on the last leg of my journey to the Grand Canyon North Rim.

Next up:  Grand Canyon North Rim.

Until then,

Ken

Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona, July 2021, Part 1

The last stop on my route to the Grand Canyon North Rim in July 2021 was the Petrified Forest National Park.  There is an exit to this national park from I40, but I elected to go into Holbrook, Arizona and go to the south entrance, since there is an RV site just outside the park entrance there.  That RV site does not take reservations, so I wanted to be sure to get there early to increase my chance of getting a site.  There are actually two places across the road from each other here, where RV’s can park.  One site is free, first come, first serve, but has no hookups.  The other has electric hook up, but no water.  I did not need a water hookup, but I wanted electric, since I expected it to be hot and I wanted to be able to use my A/C or, or at least a fan.

I pulled into the Petrified Forest Gift Shop and RV Park and went into the gift shop to secure a site.  Some of the reviews that I had read about this site said the staff were unfriendly, but I did not find that to be the case.  Instead, I would characterize the two staff/owners as matter of fact and business like.  They were not the bubbly personality types we’ve all come to expect at tourist lodgings, motels and hotels, but they were not unfriendly.

I jokingly requested a site with shade and was matter of factly told that there was no shade.  I had noted that fact already.  There are scattered trees around the edge of the RV parking area, but the vegetation on the trees is insufficient to provide any significant shade at any time of the day.

After getting my assigned site, I drove into the park for a quick tour.  This park has gates at the entrances that open at 8AM and close at 5PM, so there is no way in the summer to be anywhere in this park for sunset or sunrise photography.

The visitor center is not far from the entrance and I stopped here, but I did not go in, since I was practicing “social distancing” during the COVID-19 pandemic.  I picked up a guide brochure from an outside location behind the visitor center and proceeded to walk the paths.  There were a substantial number of visitors, but not so many that one could not maintain a suitable distance from others.

Since it was mid-day with harsh overhead light, I elected not to carry around my heavy DSLR and to shoot with my iPhone camera.  I do not even pretend to have great photos from this park.

Summer Learning

There appear to be educational opportunities here and this seems to be a good place for lessons in the geological history of this area.

Big Petrified Tree

The base of the petrified tree in the photo above is about 10 feet in diameter.  This is a clear indication of the size of the trees in the prehistoric forest that was once here.

Petrified Log Sections

Indeed, the size of the petrified logs here is impressive.

Petrified Log Sections
Petrified Log Sections

What a magnificent forest this must have been!

Observers

I noted a little girl and her dog watching me, so I had to include them in a photo.

Cactus and Petrified Log Sections
Petrified Tree

Satisfied that I had seen everything behind the visitor center, I decided to hike to the “Agate House”, which was mentioned in the brochure.  The Agate House is little over a mile from the visitor center.  It was hot, but, with the temperature in the low 90s, not nearly as hot as I had expected for this time of the year.  I took a bottle of cold water with me to be sure I did not get dehydrated.  The hike is an easy one and is on a paved trail.  The first portion of the hike is on the remnant of an asphalt road, which ends at what used to be a parking area, then the trail continues on a narrower path to the house.

Along the route, I caught a glimpse of a colorful desert creature moving amid the rocks beside the trail.

Collared Lizard

Fortunately, this colorful lizard remained perched on a rock just long enough for me to get a good photo before it disappeared into the jumble of broken petrified tree pieces.

Petrified Jumble
Agate House

The Agate House is actually a partially restored Native American dwelling.  The restoration was done via a works program during the Great Depression.  Current practice is to leave ruins as they are found, rather than to attempt reconstruction.

Agate House

I returned to my vehicle at the visitor center parking lot and continued my quick tour of this park.

More later,

Ken

Rusting Automobiles, July 2021

I just realized that I had overlooked a few items that I wanted to get into a post, after I already have a number of post scheduled.  So to keep with the chronological order that I prefer for my posts, I’m slipping in an additional post this week, rather than rework my scheduled post dates.

Pontiac

In route to the Grand Canyon North Rim, I spotted a couple of old, rusting away automobiles that I took time to shoot.  This Pontiac was located such that I could not get good, isolated images without including distracting items in the photos.  This cropped image is the best that I could get.

Rusty Ford Automobile

Parked in front of a church, as if waiting for AAA, to replace a tire, is this rusty, early Ford.

Crank Ready
Early Ford Automobile

Looks like this old Ford has been here a long time.

Early Ford Automobile
Early Ford Automobile Wheel

Ok, that’s it for this short post,

Ken

Abandoned Church, New Mexico, July 2021, Interior Views

Abandoned Church Exterior, Front and East Side, New Mexico

After photographing the exterior of this old, abandoned church at the outskirts of a small New Mexico town, I ventured through the open doorway (there was no door) to check out the interior.

Abandoned Church, Interior Graffiti, Just inside the doorway

I had noted much graffiti just looking through the doorway and windows.  Judging by the dates and graffiti messages, it looks like this place is popular with teenagers, presumably local ones, since this is a long way from any other towns or cities.

Abandoned Church, Interior and Graffiti

Shooting handheld in the dim light inside the church required high ISO to get sufficiently high shutter speeds to avoid fuzzy images.  Shooting through windows from inside resulted in blowing out the exterior portions of the images.

Abandoned Church, Interior and Graffiti, Pulpit

I’ve brought out some of the exterior details in the editing process in the image above just to avoid having a white blur in the windows.  The exterior details through the windows are very low quality as a result.  If I had not been shooting handheld, I could have acquired images to create HDR images.

Abandoned Church, Interior Graffiti
Abandoned Church, Interior, Floor

The floor boards were still sound, so maybe the missing boards are a result of someone looking for hidden treasure.

Abandoned Church, Interior, Ceiling

The ceiling bead board had a nice patina and mostly appeared to be in good condition.  The covers to the ceiling light fixtures were all missing, presumably broken or maybe stolen.  There were remnants of broken light bulbs in the fixtures.

Abandoned Church, Interior, Ceiling
Abandoned Church, Interior, Ceiling

There were no window panes so a breeze through the windows made the hanging light fixtures sway.  I had to increase the ISO even more to freeze the motion of these.

Abandoned Church, Interior, Ceiling
Abandoned Church, Interior, Ceiling
Abandoned Church, Interior, Ceiling

Obviously some electrical item had been removed from the central portion of the ceiling.  I’m guessing a ceiling fan had been here and has been stolen, if not removed legally, since those early day fans might be valuable antiques.

This wraps up my photography here.

Until next time,

Ken

 

 

 

 

 

 

Abandoned Church, New Mexico, July 2021, Exterior Views

Abandoned Church Exterior, Front and East Side

As I traveled towards my second overnight destination in route to the Grand Canyon North Rim in July 2021, I spotted an abandoned church about a block north of the highway at the edge of a small New Mexico town.  I had to stop to check out this old church.

The roadway from the highway to the church was gravel, but in good condition.  There were other homes or building visible from the church site, but none were very close to the church, making it stand out from its surroundings.

I walked around the exterior photographing the church from various angles and capturing some of the exterior details, before I ventured through the front doorway.

Abandoned Church Exterior, Weathered and Scared Siding
Abandoned Church Exterior, Weathered Siding

This post is dedicated to the exterior views.  It was afternoon and the lighting was not great for capturing this weathered old church, but I knew I might not pass by again for a long time, if ever, so I had to make the best of the photographic conditions.

Abandoned Church Exterior, East Side
Abandoned Church Exterior, Window and Interior View
Abandoned Church Exterior, Back and East Side
Abandoned Church Exterior, Window and Interior View
Abandoned Church Exterior, Back and West Side
Abandoned Church Exterior, Window and Interior View
Abandoned Church Exterior, Front and West Side, New Mexico
Abandoned Church Exterior, Window and View to Interior Ceiling
Abandoned Church Exterior, Front and West Side, New Mexico
Abandoned Church Exterior, Window and Interior View

I will post photographs from the interior next.

Until then,

Ken

 

 

Boots and Bicycles, July 2021

As I approached the previously mentioned ranch fence line that was decorated with boots and bicycles, I noted a police officer’s vehicle with the police officer chatting with someone in another vehicle.  It appeared to be a friendly meeting and not a traffic stop.  I pulled over onto the broad shoulder of the roadway near the corner of the fence line, maybe twenty yards or so, from the two.  As I got out of my vehicle, and noted the police officer watching me, I waved and he began walking towards me, so I approached him.  My friendly wave had apparently made the police officer think I needed to speak to him or had a problem.  I explained that I wanted to photograph the fence line, but did not want to do anything forbidden.  He assured me it was ok to photograph the fence decor and told me a little about the local ranch and their penchant for the fence decor.

So I retrieved my camera from my vehicle and began to walk along the fence shooting photos.

Bicycles and Boots
Bicycles and Boots

I wanted to show the fence in its entirety with its allure, but I found it impossible to get a good overall view with my camera.  So I began to isolate smaller aspects of the decor.

Bicycles and Boots
Bicycles and Boots

I was soon joined at the fence by a ranch dog that vociferously objected to my presence.

Bicycle and Ranch Dog

This dog followed me along the fence line, maybe to make sure I did not cross over into his territory.

Bicycles and Boots

Soon a second ranch dog showed up.

Ranch Dogs

The second dog did not bark and seemed to have a calming effect upon the first.  Thereafter, they seemed friendlier and just curious about me.

Ranch Dog
Texas Ranch Fence Line
Fence Decor
Bicycle and Stuffed Animal along a fence line
Boots on a fence
Bicycles and Boots

Satisfied that I had sufficient photographs to illustrate this uniquely decorated fence line, I bade farewell to the ranch dogs and continued on my way.

Ken

Caprock Canyon State Park, Texas, July 2021, Part 2

Before continuing my journey towards the Grand Canyon North Rim, I took time to drive to the end of the road in Caprock Canyon State Park, stopping at a few locations to get iPhone shots.

Caprock Canyon Panorama
Red Dirt

The fine, red clay soil seems to permeate everything here.

Gypsum Crystals

There were gypsum crystals frequently exposed on the surface of this mostly desert like environment.

Desert Green

The effect of the recent rains were clearly visible in the greenness of the scrubby vegetation.

Caprock Canyon State Park, Texas

At the end of the park road was a tent campground and a trailhead into the canyon.  I’m thinking this might be the most interesting hike in this park.  If I stop here again and have time, I will plan to hike this trail.

After encountering a rattlesnake on my previous days hike, I was much more wary while strolling about today.  I did not see another rattlesnake while walking about, but I did see a small one crossing the paved roadway as I arrived back at the camping area.  There was also a bison standing at the trailhead of the hike I had taken the previous day.

Ready to Hike

I do not know why this big fella was hanging out by the sign, but it was still here, after I made a loop through the campground, before heading out on the next leg of my journey.  Maybe it was waiting for a hiking companion.

Until next time,

Ken

Caprock Canyon State Park, Texas, July, 2021, Part 1

I’ve driven past a sign for Caprock Canyon State Park on US 287 in northwestern Texas numerous times on my way to some western destination.  So when planning my July, 2021 trip to the Grand Canyon North Rim, I decided to make this my first stop over along a different route than I would normally take.

I departed US 287 in the tiny town of Estelline, Texas heading west on Texas Route 86, traveling through an unfamiliar part of rural Texas.  I noted that the countryside looked exceptionally green with lots of thick, green grass along the edge of the roadway, green pastures and farm fields with water filled low areas.  Evidently, there had been more than the normal rainfall in this area recently.

Even though I had mapped out my route, the drive on this narrow, backroad route was slower and seemed longer than I had anticipated.  There was little traffic, but the speed limit was much lower than the 75mph on the more substantial routes.

I passed through a number of very small towns and/or rural communities, stopping in Turkey, Texas to top off my tank at the only filling station in town, since I did not know when I would see another convenient filling station.

As I came into Turkey, I noted a prominent sign proclaiming Turkey to be the birthplace of Bob Wills, a famous and early Country and Western performer, with the group “Bob Wills and his Texas Playboys”.  Bob Wills was one of the featured performers in the Ken Burn’s “Country Music” documentary on PBS.  I had heard some of his music on radio in my early childhood.

Faded Love (on the front name plate of the bus).

Perhaps the best remembered piece by Bob Wills and his Texas Playboys is “San Antonio Rose”, which has been performed by many others.

Continuing on my way, I soon came into Quitaque, Texas.  I had to look up the proper way to pronounce the name of this town.  The locals pronounce it “Kitty Quay” and there is even this pronunciation indicated on signs on either side of the route through the town.  The name reportedly comes from a Native American  word meaning “end of the trail”, which is fitting for this portion of my journey.

Quitaque is a picturesque little Texas town and I noted several items of interest on my way through town and on the short stretch of roadway from town to the entrance to Caprock Canyon State Park.  I did not take time to stop on my way to the park, but I was determined to take time for photographs the next day, before I continued my journey.  More on this in the next post, but here are teasers:

Mobil Gas Pegasus
Bicycles and Boots decorate a Texas ranch fence line

I had checked into my campsite online, but I stopped in the park headquarters on my way in just to be sure I did not need to do anything else.  The park ranger, warned me to keep my distance from the Bison and that they were free roaming and might wander into my campsite.

As I left the headquarters on my way to my campsite, I noted quite a few bison, but I did not stop to photograph them, thinking I would have plenty of opportunity for that later and I’ve seen plenty of bison previously.  There are even bison ranches in this part of Texas, but the herd here is the only free roaming herd in Texas.

In the campground there is a prairie dog town near the restroom facility.  The prairie dogs would bark a warning, whenever anyone walked along the walkway towards the restroom, most would scamper into their underground dens, while one seemed to keep watch.

The restroom facilities here are old and in great need of updating.  This seems to be a popular park, as there were many RVs in the campground.  So it seems to me that upgrading the park facilities would be a priority.  I’ve since written e-mails to the Texas State Representative and Senator for this area, pointing out the need to put forth a better image for such a popular state park.

A recent Texas state ballot issue was approved to address the lack of funding for state parks.  A previously targeted method  for funding Texas Parks and Wildlife existed, but the state found other ways to use that money, rather than use it for its intended purpose.  It remains to be seen, if the recent effort will result in much needed maintenance and updating of Texas State Park facilities or if our elected state officials will divert those funds, maybe to use in totally useless audits of the previous federal election in some districts or to sue school districts that want to require students and employees to wear masks during the current COVID-19 pandemic.

There is a hiking trail originating from my campground, so I decided to head out late in the day, hoping to find some photographic opportunities.  I hiked for some distance along the trail, eventually going down a steep slope into a canyon, but I did not find anything I considered photo worthy.  I did not even see a bison, although there were plenty of indications that they had been in this area.  There were also many irritating flying insects, mostly large biting flies and I had not even thought to put on insect repellant or bring any in my day pack, since there were few insects buzzing around the campground and mosquitoes are seldom a problem in this part of Texas.

I eventually decided there was no compelling reason to hike any further along this trail, so I turned back, taking a different branch back towards the campground.

There were some wildflowers scattered around and as I walked along scanning the area, often looking at the near trail wildflowers, I heard a very distinct sound that immediately increased my heart rate.

Trail Hazard

I stopped in my tracks and looked up.  A few feet in front of me a rattlesnake was stretched across the trail issuing a warning.  For all the times that I’ve hiked in wild areas, this is the first time I’ve encountered a rattlesnake.  My camera was strapped to my backpack, so I tried to pull my iPhone from my pocket to get a shot, as the snake moved to the side of the trail and kept an eye on me for a few moments.  By the time I got my phone out, it had already begun to disappear into the vegetation along the trail.  So the image above is all I managed to get.

After this encounter, I was much more vigilant for the rest of my hike.

To be continued,

Ken

 

Rural Decay, June, 2021

There is a small Texas town that I drive by on my trips westward and each time I go through it, I think I should someday take time to get off the highway and see what is in this old Texas town.  Finally, on one of my homeward bound trips, I did just that.

This is not a ghost town, there are still residents, businesses, a post office, city hall, and some modern improvements, but I found numerous abandoned businesses in and around the downtown area and even an older, abandoned city hall.

I shot numerous photos, but many of the settings and the mid-day light were not conducive to getting interesting shots, so I’ve greatly culled the images to present in this post and I had to do some creative editing to add interest to these images.

Auto Sales

There is a crumbling building that was an auto sales business long ago.

Auto Sales

Given the smallness of this Texas town, I was surprised to find the remnants of an auto sales place here.  This one appears to have been abandoned many years ago.

Barred Window

The back side of one of the downtown area’s abandoned business had a couple of windows, one of which had concrete rebar installed for security.

Flower and Window

The adjacent window had no bars and the lower glass pane was missing.

Wildflowers and Windows
Back Door

A street corner building had an interesting looking backside.  The image above is cropped from a wider view to remove distracting items.  The monochrome conversion seems more fitting for this subject than the original color version.

Thanks for following,

Ken