It was another heavily overcast morning in Badlands National Park with sporadic light rain.
Traffic Stop, Badlands NP, September 18, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo through the windshield
These female Bighorns and lambs were in no hurry and did not care that they were holding me up in my quest for early morning photos.
Bighorn, Badlands NP, September 18, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo
Shooting under the heavy overcast, most of my images were dark. I brightened them, but did not want to overdo that and ruin the reality. These images look better on a large screen with proper brightness for viewing images, but may look very dark in this blog post, especially if viewed on a small screen. Some of these images have embedded links to the images on Flickr, where these usually look much better than in this blog.
I shot all of these image at a number of different viewpoints along SD240, the main road through the park. I met a young lady from Michigan, who was also shooting images. We seemed to be stopping at the same places for awhile. She observed that the color in the badlands rocks were more saturated when wet. I told her that she had discovered the reason geologists like to view wet rocks, rather than dry ones.
I returned to the Yellow Mounds area of Badlands National Park for sunset golden hour photography on my third full day in this area.
Yellow Mounds, Badlands National Park, South Dakota
I had to watch closely to keep my shadow out of a number of my late day images. Looking closely, one can see the shadow of that foreground Rabbit Bush on the far side of the ravine.
Yellow Mounds 2, Badlands National Park, South DakotaYellow Mounds 3, Badlands Np, South DakotaYellow Mounds 4, Badlands NPBadlands and Grasslands, Badlands National Park, South Dakota
Due to unfavorable weather conditions, I did not get out early for morning photos on the third full day in the Badlands NP area. Instead, I drove through more of the park in the morning hours, scouting more potential shooting locations.
Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, AM, iPhone Photo 1Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, AM, iPhone Photo 2Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, AM, iPhone Photo 3Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, AM, iPhone Photo 4Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, AM, iPhone Photo 5Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, AM, iPhone Photo 6Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, AM, iPhone Photo 7Cloud Tracks, Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo
I checked out many locations along SD Route 240 this morning, shooting many iPhone photos, most of which were uninspiring. The few posted here are the ones I found most interesting and showing potential for golden hour photography.
As I backtracked out of the park, I spotted a couple of Bighorn sheep high up on a ridge. I stopped, put my big zoom lens on my camera and shot a few images.
Bighorns, Badlands NPBighorn blending into the background, Badlands NP
After my morning excursion into Badlands National Park, I returned to the Buffalo Gap National Grasslands Campground Area, picked another campsite, had lunch and waited until it was time to go out again for sunset photography.
Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 1Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 2
As the afternoon progressed, like yesterday, storm clouds began gathering.
Visitors, Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, South DakotaPraire StormBuffalo Gap National Grasslands, Campsite 2
Rain soon began to fall with gusty winds. It was apparent that the storm was too fierce for me to venture back out for a late day shoot. Now I have to look forward to another morning shoot.
After my early morning sunrise session, I scouted other areas along SD Route 240 for potential sunset today and/or sunrise locations tomorrow morning. As typical, I used my iPhone for the scouting photos, so that I could move around more easily, unhindered by heavy camera gear.
Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 1
My first scouting stop was a viewing area designated as “Yellow Mounds Overlook”, where I climbed a steep slope to check out the views from a higher elevation, after scanning the area from the parking lot.
Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 2Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 3Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 4
I continued along SD 240, stopping to check out the views from other pullouts.
Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 5Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 6Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 7
At each location, I made a number of images, testing compositional variations. This post contains a few selected images from a few of those stops.
Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 8Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 9
I had decided to shoot at one of the overlooks in Badlands National Park my first morning here, but when I arrive at that destination, I did not like the view and proceeded down the roadway to another pullout. That pullout was intended as an overview of an area to the north, but I climbed a grassy slope on the opposite side of the roadway, anticipating better sunrise lighting on the features on that side of the roadway. That is, if there was a sunrise this heavily overcast morning, after a storm came through during the night.
Sky NotchOvercast RidgeDark MorningInto the Badlands
Looks like no golden hour this morning, but the clouds are dramatic.
Into the Badlands 2
With the sun just barely peeking through the heavily overcast horizon, I decided to move on down that roadway and look for other photographic opportunities.
Clearing Storm Clouds over BadlandsHitchhikerPastel MorningMorning SpotlightMorning ColorBadland MorningBadlands MeanderMirrored
After arriving at the park, I drove along the main park roadway for a while to scout possible sunset photos today and sunrise for the next morning. Then I began to look for my planned camping area, driving a long way down a dusty, washboarded roadway that went to the camping area, which I had found via an online search for camping in the area of the park. Eventually, I decided that the time it was taking for me to get to my planned camping area was going to be a problem for travel back and forth for sunset and sunrise photography. Even though the distance might not be great, the road conditions required slow travel speed. So I detoured off that rough road and began to look for other possibilities.
I found an online reference to another campsite just off of South Dakota Route 240 between Walls and the park, so I set out to find that site. Before I found the site I was looking for, I again noted campers set up on higher elevation to the east of the roadway. I had seen those on my initial pass though this area, but I had not seen a way to get to the area where those campers were set up.
I began to pay closer attention to that side of Route 240 and I soon found an inconspicuous, grassy, dirt roadway heading into the grasslands. I took that trail, hoping it would take me to a camping area, soon coming to campers set up and/or leaving. I stopped to inquire about this area with one camper that was on the way out. He assured me that there were plenty of free campsite along this roadway, higher up on the hillside.
I continued on, finding many good campsites. I later found a second roadway into this area, just a short distance from the park entrance, with a sign designating this area as Buffalo Gap National Grasslands.
There are some campsites right on the edge of a sharp drop off into badlands that are outside of the main park area. I picked one of these that was level enough that no leveling of my vehicle was required.
A view from Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, South Dakota, September 15, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo
After having a late lunch in my vehicle, I walked around to scout the views from the camping area across the broad area below and to the west of the campground.
A view of an area adjacent to Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, South Dakota, September 15, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo
I found a few places where I thought I might use my 80-400mm lens to shoot down into the adjacent badlands, which were outside the main park area.
One of the problems with driving a camper vehicle, is losing a campsite in these first come first serve areas, if one leaves the campsite even for a short time. I did not want to lose this campsite and I had not scouted enough in the park to locate a good sunset shoot location and there was a storm brewing, so I decide to get by with shooting from the campsite area and get out early the next morning for sunrise photography.
My shots with the big lens are not great and are a bit flat, but here are a few for the record.
Semicircle, View from Buffalo Gap National Grasslands camping area.A wider angle view of the area around the semicircle in the upper rightDistant Cloud Shadows and Near Sunlight, View from Buffalo Gap National Grasslands camping area.Golden Hour and Shadows, View from Buffalo Gap National Grasslands camping area.
These photos may not be very impressive, but the geology shown in these is impressive. One can see the flat grassy areas that are eroding away revealing the layers of rock beneath the flat surfaces.
As I was finishing my late day shoot, a bunny rabbit hopped between me and my final composition. This little guy did not seem exceptionally concerned about my presence, but was nevertheless cautious and uncertain about my possible threat. It sat still as if hoping not to be seen, as it blended in well with the background, while I snapped an iPhone camera image.
These photos reveal how the cloud cover increased as I was shooting. There was a storm front coming in and I felt a few drops of rain, so I wrapped up my shoot and headed back to my campsite.
The wind picked up considerably as the storm came through. I could see lightening to the west and east, but other than gusty winds, the storm never came over the campsite. I was able to get a weak phone signal, sufficient to consult the weather channel and view the radar, which showed the major portion of the storm to the west and east and did not show any significant danger of thunderstorms over the campsite.
I tried sleeping in the penthouse, watching the distant lightening in the west and east. The gusty wind resulted in my putting the penthouse down as a precaution and sleeping down below. The gusty winds kept me awake for a significant portion of the night. I had already decided that another day here was not justified, so I decided to sleep a little longer, to be better rested for my drive to Badlands National Park, rather than go out for sunrise photography.
After leaving the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, my next primary destination was Toadstool Geologic Area in Nebraska. Since the drive between these two destinations was long, I had plans to break up that drive with a couple of overnight stops along the way.
I stopped in Kansas at Lake Scott State Park the first night. The campground is adjacent to a lake with hills surrounding it, which I had hoped would be scenic enough for a few good photographs. I was disappointed. The campground was ok, but nothing special. The park is old, in need of updating, the lake was not scenic and some facilities, such as docks, were in great disrepair. Long grass and weeds along part of the lake had been recently cut, but the clippings were littering the grounds and walkways. It did not appear that the caretakers were concerned with the general appearance of the park.
My second planned overnight was a dispersed and free camping area at Clear Creek State Wildlife Management Area along the North Platte River in Nebraska. When I checked the weather report for that area there were warning of severe thunderstorms and I knew from research into this site that rain might render the dirt roads into the area impassable. I decided it best to bypass that site and make a long drive on to Toadstool Geologic area.
There are only six first come, first serve campsites at Toadstool. I wanted to arrive early enough in the day that there might still be campsites available. This is the main reason that I had not initially planned to drive directly from Lake Scott, Kansas to Toadstool. If I arrived late in the day and the campsites were taken, I would have to backtrack to other possible sites, with no guarantee of finding a place to stay nearby.
The final stretch of roadway into Toadstool is a 16 mile gravel roadway. That roadway was rough and extremely washboarded, when I drove in, requiring slow driving.
Luckily, when I arrived at the campsite, there were at least 4 sites available. I had planned to stay two nights here, but it was hotter than usual here with daytime temperatures in the nineties. Nighttime temperatures drop into the upper fifties, making for comfortable sleeping. There are no water or electric hookups here. I had plenty of water, but electric would have been good to have with such hot daytime temperatures.
I decided that having to hang out during the heat of the day would not be pleasant, so I only registered for one night. If, after exploring the area, I decided another day would be beneficial, I could always extend my stay.
After registering at the campsite kiosk, I finished setting up my van for the overnight stay, raising the penthouse and opening all the vents, opening the side and back doors to allow air to circulate through to help reduce the inside temperature.
In the meantime, others arrived and soon all the sites were taken. It was fortunate that I did not arrive any later this afternoon.
I had plenty of time prior to sunset, so I hiked into the area around the campsite to scout locations for photography. I found a few possible location in the hillsides to the south, but none of those really appealed to me. Eventually, coming back down into the valley below the hillsides to the west of the campground, I found interesting features and decided this was the best place to return for sunset and maybe even sunrise.
King of the Hill
When I returned to the area I had chosen for sunset photography there were a few young people and a photographer, shooting what I think were engagement photos, that I had to work around. Eventually, that group left and I had the place to myself.
Supporter or OppressorSupporting Cast
I shot a number of images of the rock features with variation on the compositions and the clouds moving overhead.
Having found no better and more convenient place for sunset photography during my mid-day exploration of the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, I decided to hike back to Little Baldy again for sunset.
Wild Turkey in campground
I had already seen a flock of wild turkeys wandering freely and nonchalantly around the campground and as I left my campsite, I noted a dozen or more along my route. I had already mounted my wide angle lens and had no other lens with me, so I could not get a close up photo of these wild birds.
Wild Turkey in campground
These photos are not very good, but I wanted to include these as documentation of the wildlife in this area. These wild turkey do not seem to be bothered much by humans, although they will scurry away, when approached too closely. I suppose their lack of great fear of humans is a result of this being a wildlife refuge, where no hunting is permitted and contact with humans is common.
When I arrived at Little Baldy, I worked my way around to the western side and picked my way up the slope, looking for different view points from which to shoot today.
Little Baldy western slope in sunset light
From atop a large granite feature, I shot along the edge of Little Baldy as the sun sank low in the sky. Then I worked my way towards the top of Little Baldy.
Sunset on Little BaldyPost Sunset on Little Baldy
The sun was already sinking below the horizon, when I got near the top of Little Baldy. I managed to snap a few photos before the golden hour ended, but most were similar, even though I tried moving around as fast as I could to get various perspectives.
Possibly, I might have gotten better and more varied shots, had I gone to the top first, rather than shooting from the side of Little Baldy.
Tomorrow I will begin the next leg of my journey towards my primary destination of this road trip.
