{Readers might note that this post is out of chronological order. Apparently, I overlooked the draft of this post as I was publishing my blogs}.
My oldest son arrived in Bisti during the afternoon of my second day there. We decided to go to the place that I had scouted the previous afternoon for sunset photography.
It was another very cloudy day near sunset as we arrived at our destination and began preliminary shooting and picking our spots for sunset shots.
Muted colors previous to sunset in Bisti Wilderness. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Adobe Lightroom now has a new Texture adjustment that I discovered while editing this photo. I probably pushed it too much in this photo, but I wanted to experiment with this new toy.
The tall feature in the upper right is a good navigation item here. It can be seen from far away and from various directions.
A photographer getting a sunset shot in Bisti Wilderness. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 24mm, f/11, 0.4mm, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
My oldest son is standing on the slope that I scouted the previous afternoon. Some late day light is apparent at the fringes of the rocks; but the cloud cover is making it brief and muted.
Cloudy, muted sunset light on Bisti Hoodoos and Bluffs. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 32mm, f/11, 1/3s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
My shot from the slope, where my son was standing in the previous photo. Note the cloudy sky. There is golden hour light, but it is not as brilliant as one would like to see.
With such intermittant light it is always difficult to know what to do or where to be for the best photographic opportunity. One can be patient and stick to one place or move around, looking for other compositions. It is probably best to pick one composition and wait patiently. Sometimes I have patience, sometimes I don’t.
Sunset highlights on Bisti Wilderness features. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 24mm, f/11, 1/3s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Even with brief and muted light, I like the image above with the contrasting highlights and dark shadows. I’ve used the alignment of the rocks and hoodoos as a leading line into the photo. This line also intersects with the line formed by the big hill in the upper center of the photo, which then leads the eyes to the sunset sky.
A cloudy, sunset silhouette in Bisti Wilderness. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 36mm, f/11, 1/50s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
A cloudy sky can make for dramatic sunset silhouettes.
A sunset silhouette taken from atop a hill in Bisti Wilderness. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 0.4s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Another sunset silhouette with colorful, striated clouds. This image is cropped from a much larger image, most of which was just dark shadow in the foreground. Details in the shadows could have been brought out via editing, but there was really not anything there to add interest.
There is an area just to the southeast of the Bisti south parking area that we had previously ignored, thinking there was probably nothing of interest there; but we decided to explore that area, anyway. It was only a few minutes hike from the parking area, so we did not have to allow nearly as much time for getting to it. We found canyons with numerous branches there to explore.
One of a number of canyons near the south Bisti parking area. Nikon D850, Nikon 14-24mm at 24mm, f/11, 1/10s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
One of the problems with photographing in canyons is that large portions of them tend to be in shadow at both sunrise and sunset and the light in the canyons either later in the day after sunrise or earlier in the day at sunset can be harsh.
One of a number of canyons near the south parking area for Bisti Wilderness. Nikon D850, Nikon 14-24mm at 22mm, f/11, 1/13s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
For the shot above, I found a place to actually sit on a large rock and look down this canyon and wait for sunrise light. I have purposely left deeper shadows in the foreground to contrast with the early morning light on the background, with the dark bottom of the canyon and the walls of the canyon leading the eye towards the background. The photo looks a bit dark in this post. Click on the photo to see this image on Flickr, where a larger view will make it look much better. Perhaps, I left too much shadow and darkness for some computer screen viewing? My monitor is fairly bright and the image looks good viewing it in Adobe Lightroom. But perhaps, I should re-visit the editing and bring up the shadow areas a little?
One of several canyons near the Bisti south parking area. Nikon D850, Nikon 14-24mm at 24mm, f/11, 1/80s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
The photo above is near a branch in one of the canyons nearest to the south Bisti parking lot. This shot is taken much later in the morning than sunrise shots are normally taken, but note the deep shadows on the east side of the canyon wall.
After our morning experience in these canyons, we decided that sunset might be a better time for photography here and to return to shoot here at sunset, which will be the topic of the day 3 sunset post.
Early in the morning of my second day in Bisti, I returned to the area that I had scouted the day before for sunrise and early morning photography. In this area I had found rock forms similar to the Cracked Eggs of The Nursery, only not so many as in The Nursery.
This post will be long on photos and short on words. I will make a few comments on the photos and maybe the editing, but there is not much else to say about the area that readers have not already heard.
An early morning scene in Bisti. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 24mm, f/11, multiple exposures, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and ?.
I began shooting just before sunrise, when the colors are muted due to minimal light on the subjects.
I attempted to make an HDR with multiple exposures of the scene above, but I ran into problems and now I do not recall exactly what edits were applied to get the image above, hence the ? in the image caption.
Feet like erosional patterns at the foot of a hill in Bisti. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 32mm (before crop), f/11, 10s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
The image above is actually a crop from a much larger scene. As I edited that image, zooming in to check details, I noted that the erosional patterns at the base of the hill far in the background looked like giant feet. So I cropped that portion of the image to get the one above. This has given me an idea of how to shoot such patterns at the base of these hills, rather than ignoring them as I had been.
An early morning scene in Bisti. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 32mm (before crop), f/11, multiple exposures, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and Skylum Aurora HDR software.
The above image is also cropped from a much large scene and is an HDR made from multiple exposures. The blackish hill in the upper left is one of the navigational markers that I use to get to this area. It is visible from a long distance in the mostly flat desert here.
Cracked egg like rock form in Bisti, but not in The Nursery. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 32mm, f/11, 1.0s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
This is one of the rocks that is shaped like those in “The Nursery”, where they are called “Cracked Eggs”.
Cracked egg like rock form in Bisti, but not in The Nursery. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 48mm, f/11, 1.0s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Another of the Cracked Egg like rocks with a rounded rock behind it.
Cracked egg like rock form in Bisti, but not in The Nursery. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 48mm, f/11, 1.0s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
A monochrome version of the previous image. I think monochrome works well with these type images.
Cracked egg like rock forms in Bisti, but not in The Nursery. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 36mm, f/11, 0.8s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Another view of the same two rocks as in the previous two images with a bit more background.
Bisti rock forms and early morning light on hill sides. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 38mm, f/11, 0.4s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
More rocks in the miniature “nursery” area with colorful hills in the background just beginning to be illuminated by the early morning light.
A close up of a cartoonish rock form. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 1/8s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
I spotted these two small rocks as they were getting the first rays of early morning light and I was struck by how much the upper one looked liked a cartoonish animal character, maybe a bird or dinosaur. With a bit of a change in the perspective, the closer rock can be made to look like a body for the upper “head” rock.
The small rock in the foreground looks like a cartoon character bird or maybe dinosaur. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 30mm, f/11, 1/15s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
A larger view of the area with the cartoon face rock, providing a setting for the smaller rock features. Note the long early morning shadows. Many years ago this area was a lush green forest and there were dinosaurs roaming here, perhaps making the creature faced rock more pertinent.
Early morning scene in Bisti with rock forms casting long shadows. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 30mm, f/11, 1/15s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
More rocks casting early morning shadows along with the cartoon faced rock with colorful hills in the background.
The rock form in the foreground has the appearance of a dog face or maybe some other animal like face. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 40mm, f/11, 1/20s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Another animal like faced rock casting early morning shadows.
Cracked Egg Rock Forms that are not in The Nursery area of Bisti. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 30mm, f/11, 1/15s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
More of the “Cracked Eggs” like rocks with long early morning shadows.
A Cracked Egg Rock Form that is not in The Nursery area of Bisti. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 30mm, f/11, 1/15s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
And even more of the “Cracked Egg” rock forms with long early morning shadows.
Bisti Rock Forms. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 27mm, f/11, 1/15s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
The image above is cropped from a larger view that I did not think had sufficient sharpness over the entire range of the original image. Anyway, that rock on the right has a unique shape and I am at a loss as to how to label it. It does look like some sort of creature, I just do not know what. Maybe you have an idea?
Cracked Egg like rocks, not in The Nursery area of Bisti. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 35mm, f/11, 1/15s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Cracked Egg or Hamburger Rock?
Cracked Egg like rocks, not in The Nursery area of Bisti. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 35mm, f/11, 1/15s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
A monochrome version of the previous image. In editing these type images for monochrome, I like to keep the shadows dark, so I might bring down the shadows and/or darks in the process.
Bisti Rock Forms in Black and White. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 38mm, f/11, 1/10s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
Just a couple of interesting rock shapes with early morning light highlights and shadows.
The rock in the foreground has a dog or maybe a bear face appearance. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 32mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
A closer view of the “Dog Face” rock.
The rock in the foreground has a dog or maybe a bear face appearance. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 32mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
A monochrome version of the “Dog Face” rock. Note how much darker I’ve made the shadows in the monochrome version.
This Bisti Rock looks a bit like a reclining bear. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 36mm, f/11, 1/25s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
I’m calling the rock in the foreground “Reclining Bear”, since the upper left most portion looks like a bear face to me.
Bisti rocks and early morning shadows. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 38mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
I’m intrigued by the shapes of the shadows cast by the various rock shapes. I’ve noted that using a Detail Extractor filter in DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4 brings out details in the shadows, which sometimes is preferable, but sometimes I like to keep the shadows darker, so this filter might not be a good choice in those cases.
Bisti rocks and early morning shadows. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 38mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
A monochrome version of the previous image. Note how I’ve kept the shadows dark, not allowing any detail in the shadows.
Bisti rocks and early morning shadows. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 36mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
More rocks and shadows. The rock on the left is in the previous image. I like the shapes of the shadows of the rocks on the left. Shadows sometimes take on a shapes that are surprisingly different that one might expect.
Bisti rocks and early morning shadows. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 36mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
A monochrome version of the previous image. I’ve purposely kept the shadows deep and dark for a more dramatic appearance.
Bisti rocks and early morning shadows. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 65mm, f/11, 1/25s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
A row of rocks and their shadows. Note the uppermost rock shadow shapes and the middle rock jagged shadow shapes that one might not expect by looking at the rocks from this perspective.
Bisti rocks and early morning shadows. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 65mm, f/11, 1/25s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
A monochrome version of the previous post, emphasizing form, highlights and shadows.
A Bisti rock and its early morning shadow. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 24mm, f/11, 1/30s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro4.
A “lumpy” rock and its mitten like shadow.
A Bisti rock and its early morning shadow. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 24mm, f/11, 1/30s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
A monochrome version of the previous image again emphasizing shape, highlights and shadows. Somehow the monochrome version seems more “artistic” and “mysterious” than the color version.
A group of Bisti rocks casting long early morning shadows. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 40mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
A group of rocks and their shadows.
A group of Bisti rocks casting long early morning shadows. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 40mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
A monochrome version of the previous image, emphasizing shape, highlights and shadows. Which is more appealing? I like the monochrome version best.
Small rocks in Bisti Wilderness casting long early morning shadows. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 27mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Many small rocks and long, early morning shadows.
Small rocks in Bisti Wilderness casting long early morning shadows. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 27mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
A monochrome version of the previous image. Which image has more mystery?
Semicircle of rocks and early morning shadows. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 36mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
A semi-circular pattern of rocks and their shadows. I like the way the shallow wash passes to the right around these rocks with the empty space on the left. The vignetting is added to focus the eye onto the main subject.
Semicircle of rocks and early morning shadows. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 36mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
A monochrome version of the previous image for comparison without vignetting. I like the monochrome version best, but if I left off the vignetting in the color version, would that look better?
Jagged Shadow Rock. The shadow of the big rock has a Halloween like appearance. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 45mm, f/11, 1/50s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
The only thing unusual about the large rock is its shadow, which has a “Halloweenish” appearance.
A large rock with a Halloween like shadow. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 45mm, f/11, 1/50s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
And Halloweenish should be monochrome, shouldn’t it?
Ok, I’ve beaten this topic to death. I can’t promise that I won’t do it again, though.
Next up sunset photos on day 2 in Bisti, March 2019.
While in Farmington, I took advantage of the city amenities to do laundry, have a simple restaurant meal and acquire a few more provisions, including food, water and filling my spare fuel containers, before heading to Bisti.
Upon arriving at the parking area for the southern access into Bisti/De Na Zin, I noted only a few visitors were there; but with the eminent weekend, I expected more soon and, indeed, more began to arrive as I set up.
I parked in a north-south direction near the back end of the parking lot and began installation of my solar panels on the roof rack, being sure to secure them well, since it was quite windy. Normally, I would move the solar panels during the day to get the most power possible from them, but with them on the roof and the required tying down, it would not be convenient to move them, so I just left them facing south at about 45 degrees to the roof rack. It turns out that this arrangement was sufficient to keep the house batteries charged, as I did not have to resort to running the engine at anytime.
The Sportsmobile with solar panels on the roof rack and the Penthouse raised. iPhone photo.
The photo above was actually taken near the end of our stay in Bisti.
I met and chatted with a few of the visitors Friday afternoon before heading into the wilderness area. It was a windy, cloudy day with a considerable wind chill, even though the air temperature was not so cold. I knew the possibilities for late day light were slim, but I went out late in the day, just in case. I wanted to explore new areas, anyway. If nothing else, I would be able to scout possible places to return to in more favorable photographic conditions.
An interesting feature in Bisti Wilderness. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
I spotted the small hoodoos/toadstools in the above photo high up on a hill top. There was no direct way to get to these. So I hiked around this area for awhile, eventually finding a not prohibitively steep slope to climb up a hillside from which I hoped to be able to work my way to these features.
Interesting features in Bisti Wilderness. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
The view to the east in the above photo is at the top of the hill that I climbed. I continued walking along the hill top to the west, looking for access to the interesting features that I had spotted from the valley below.
Scouting Photo, Bisti. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
On the northern side of the hilltop, I spotted this small wash with emerging hoodoos.
Working the area scouting photo in Bisti. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
The view to the south of the hill, overlooking the area through which I hiked, to get here was quite good.
Working the scene scouting photo, Bisti Wilderness. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
After a short hike along the ridge, I came upon the features for which I was looking. I wanted to be on the far side of these at sunset. Carefully walking around so as not to damage anything or leave footprints, which I did not want in a photo, I looked for a safe way to the other side. The drop off on the right side, I deemed too steep for a safe descent; but I could walk along on the left edge of the ridge past the hoodoos and the slope below was not excessively steep.
Working the scene scouting photo, Bisti Wilderness. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
It is always a good idea to look at a photographic subject from various view points to find the best possible vantage point, so I took a number of iPhone photos as I worked around this area. One might note that these natural features can look much different from different view points.
Working the scene scouting photo, Bisti Wilderness. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
A view from just below the feature from the west side.
Working the scene scouting photo, Bisti Wilderness. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Another possible composition from the west side.
Working the scene scouting photo, Bisti Wilderness. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
And a wider view from the west side.
One of my concerns at this location was where my shadow would appear as the sun went low into the sky. So I thought I probably would need to go a bit more down the slope below this feature.
A view from just below this feature in Bisti Wilderness. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
The view above is a bit deceptive. This photo is not taken from as far away a view point as it appears. From this point of view, I can see several different places along the slope from which to shoot and possibly eliminate my shadow from the composition.
Since I still had plenty of time prior to sunset, I continued to explore the area.
A view from a hillside in Bisti Wilderness. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Another possible feature to shoot from the top of the ridge is shown in the above photo.
I continued back down into the valley below, since it appeared that the increasing cloud cover was not promising for late day photos. I eventually set up to shoot one of the large colorful bluffs and waited for the sunlight to peek out from underneath the clouds.
I was rewarded with really good light for a brief moment, only to see that my shadow was a prominent feature in my composition. There had been no shadow due to cloud cover, when I set up my shot. I worked quickly to modify my composition, but the sunlight vanished more quickly.
Soon I gave up hope for more light and headed back towards the parking area hoping to avoid hiking too long in the dark.
About half way back to the parking area, the sun made a brief appearance. I turned around to see the desert lit up by great light and I hastily set up to attempt a shot.
Late day sunlight briefly illuminates the Bisti Wilderness. Nikon D850, Nikon 14-24mm at 18mm, f/11, 1/6s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
With such an interesting sky, I put the horizon roughly in the middle, which is generally not a good idea. I considered cropping this image, looking at various scenarios, but in the end I liked the original composition better than the crop possibilities. I think the little drainage wash coming in from the bottom right leads the eye into this image, then the diagonal lines formed by the vegetation and their shadows adds to this effect.
After this shot, I quickly tried another composition with one of the red hills in it, but the light faded quickly.
Late day sunlight briefly illuminates Bisti wilderness. Nikon D850, Nikon 14-24mm at 24mm, f/11, 1/13s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Note that in this image I included much more of the sky and less of the desert foreground, since the light was much more dramatic on the clouds in the sky.
Maybe had I gone back up the hillside to the little hoodoo/toadstool area, I might have gotten a good shot, if I had been prepared and waited patiently for the light. Then I would certainly be hiking out in the dark, but that is not a big deal here.
Even though this afternoon’s photographic excursion was disappointing, my expectations had not been high and I had found places to revisit again at another time. Such is the life of a landscape photographer.
My original trip plan had me traveling from Bandelier National Monument to Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado, then on to my son’s house in the Denver area, where we would make a final decision, based upon weather patterns, for a final destination.
This spring the snow fall in the Rockies has been very heavy with a number of avalanches. With the avalanche danger being high, we did not want to take our normal route across the Rockies into any of our favorite spring trip areas of Utah, New Mexico or Arizona. With another storm coming, we decided that the Bisti Wilderness and possibly Angel Peak in northwestern New Mexico, with a mostly benign weather forecast was the best target for the balance of this trip. So instead of driving to cold Colorado (night temperatures in the 20s), I would drive directly to New Mexico and my son would meet me there, saving me much extra driving.
I briefly looked at a map and chose the shortest route from my location in Bandelier to Farmington, New Mexico. It was a simple route and looked so straight forward, that I did not bother with using a navigation system.
Setting out about mid morning, I began driving along scenic NM Route 4 through mountainous, national forest areas. Shortly after getting underway, it began to snow lightly, then more heavily in the higher elevations, where snow began to accumulate on the roadway and vehicle as the temperature dropped below freezing, requiring me to drive more slowly.
A snowy scene in Bandelier National Forest, New Mexico. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
I passed a number of scenic, photogenic areas in the higher elevations, but there were no safe places to pull over. Even though the traffic was very light, I did encounter other vehicles, so I did not take any chances stopping on the roadway. As I got into the lower elevations, where the snow was not accumulating on the roadway, I noted high piles of accumulated snow, indicating how heavy the snowfall has been this year. I pulled out at one view area and took a couple of shots with my iPhone.
A snowy day along NM4 in Bandelier National Forest. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4. The numerous dark spots in this photo are caused by snow melt water drops on the iPhone lens.
The snow limited visibility, so one could see little from the view points.
A snow scene along NM4 in Bandelier National Forest. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4. I did not bother trying to remove the numerous spots caused by snow melt water drops on the iPhone lens from these photos.
I continued along, enjoying the scenic drive. I turned onto route 126 from route 4 at some little mountain community.
I turned onto route 126 from route 4 here.
Route 126 was a curvy, scenic paved roadway, but somewhere along the way, I saw a sign that indicated there was an unimproved, mountain roadway ahead. I had not noted that on my map, but I continued ahead, thinking I had nothing better to do than to check out this area. There were a number of national forest camping areas along both route 4 and route 126, which I made a mental note of for future possibilities.
A short cut that wasn’t. iPhone Photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Just after passing a state fish hatchery, I encountered a “Pavement Ends” sign and a barrier across the roadway. Even had this road been open, I would probably have turned back, since I had no idea of the condition of the unimproved portion of this road.
Route 126 was closed just past the fish hatchery, where the pavement ended.
I turned back here, going back to Route 4 and continued on to US 550 at San Ysidro.
Where I expected to intersect US 550 from NM 126.I planned to get to US 550 at Cuba. Instead, I ended up at San Ysidro.
Had I looked at my map a bit closer, I would have noted the non-paved portion of Route 126 or had I used a navigation system, I would have avoided this unnecessary detour, but I would have missed a scenic drive. So in the end, it was not a big deal. I later encountered someone that had driven the unimproved portion of Route 126 and they said it was a good road and I would have had no problem driving it, had it been open.
I continued onto Farmington via US 550, making a reservation in route for a room in a local motel, so that I could get a proper shower and one night in a big bed, before heading to Bisti, where there were no facilities and I would be staying for a number of days.
A view of the snow clouds over the mountains that I drove through. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Driving along US 550, I got good views of the snow clouds over the mountains that I had driven through. I then saw another storm front coming at me from the north. It is so wide open in this area, that one can see storm fronts from miles away. I drove through windy conditions, then pouring rain, then icy, slushy rain along this route. At some point, there was even enough slushy ice on my vehicle that I got a warning that my blind spot monitor was incapacitated. Other than that, the only other problem was that my anticipated night of rest in a soft bed did not occur. For some reason, I slept very poorly, even though the bed was soft and the crisp, clean sheets felt so good. Maybe I was too used to a more simple sleeping arrangement!
The third stop in my 2019 Spring road trip was Bandelier National Monument in northern New Mexico. This was mainly a convenient place to overnight on this trip, but I was, also, curious about this area. The camping area here is really nice with good restroom facilities, but no showers. The camp sites tend to be rather close to each other, but during my visit the area was almost empty with only a few scattered campers. This being my first visit, I stopped to chat with the camp site host, whom I spotted as I drove on an exploratory trip around one of the loops, all of which were open, even though the official website said some might not be open during the off season. The camp host suggested that I drive around, pick out several sites that I liked, then go to the self check in kiosk on the roadway just prior to the first loop. I did so, picking out a site with no one near it, but near a restroom. Most of the parking sites seemed to be at least slightly sloped, but not so much that it was uncomfortable, so I did not feel the need to try leveling my vehicle.
After setting up and having a late lunch, I headed out to the visitor center, which I arrived at just after the 5PM closing time, so I did not get inside there. There are a number of trails near the visitor center, so I picked up a trail guide outside the visitor entrance and decided to take a quick hike along the main trail.
Prior to this visit, there had been much snow in the area and the website said some trails were snowy and icy, so I brought along ice crampons for my hiking footwear. However, the snow and ice were all gone while I was there, so I still have new, unused crampons. I had received a weather notification of another spring storm heading this way with heavy snowfall expected over some areas.
Recent flooding had closed some areas and trails, all of which sounded more interesting than those that were open.
For landscape photography, I did not find this area of great interest, at least not on this visit. This is a beautiful forested (mostly evergreens) area, but a bit enclosed and confining for my inclinations. On my short hurried hike, I did not bother taking my DSLR and other gear, since I had no idea about what to expect.
Native American Ruins along the Main Trail in Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico. iPhone Photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
There are interesting Native American ruins here, so there is much of historical and archeological interest.
Kiva remains, Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico. iPhone Photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.A Kiva and entrance, Bandelier NM. iPhone Photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.Ladder access into a Native American Cave Shelter in Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
One is allowed to enter into any of the ancient dwelling with the ladders provided. The ladders are not ancient, of course.
An interior view of a Native American cave shelter, Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
The ceilings of the cave dwellings are blackened by fires used by the ancient dwellers. There were remnants of log elements protruding from the ceiling in some of the caves with a few charred by fire. These do not appear to have been necessary for roofs, so I’m guessing they were used for other purposes, maybe for hanging pots for cooking or storage. There is probably more information about these dwellings on the park website.
Native American Cave Shelter, Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
There were quite a few caves carved into the volcanic rock of the cliffside along the main trail.
Ruins as seen from the main trail along the cliff face, Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico. iPhone Photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
There are interesting rock shapes along the cliff side trail and good views of the ruins on the valley floor.
Native American ruins along a cliff face in Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
There are holes in the cliff face, where roof supports were originally installed. Some of the shallow alcoves along the cliff face contain paintings or petroglyphs.
After leaving the visitor center area, I went back past the camping area to a parking area at the Frey trail head and walked along the trail for awhile. The portion of the trail I walked along, just prior to sunset, was mostly through a thinly forested area. At a high point along this trail, there were good view of snow covered mountain peaks and I paused for awhile to see what the sunset would be like.
Sunset Clouds in Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Skylum Luminar.A dramatic sunset sky in Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico. iPhone photo with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Skylum Luminar.
On this brief exploratory hike, I only had my iPhone camera with me, so the quality of the sunset photos are limited, but at least give one a sense of the possibilities here.
None of the photos in this post are published on my Flickr page, since I do not consider them of sufficient quality for sharing there (not to say that I have not ever published some poor quality photos on Flickr).
I will be away for a few days, so the next post may be delayed.
After scouting about a mile along the Tejas trail earlier in the day, I went out again late in the day, planning to be near the far end of my scouting hike to get a shot of the most prominent feature on the mountainside east of the trail. After arriving at that point on the trail, I very soon realized that the sunlight was not going to illuminate that feature as I had hoped. Only a small portion of the intended subject would be highlighted with most of it being in shadow. So I began hastily backtracking down the trail to check out other possibilities. The next pre-scouted site that I attempted did not work out either, so I continued back along the trail.
I arrived at another pre-scouted site that looked more promising and proceeded to make a number of shots, none of which were greatly impressive. However, I managed to get one that I could edit and make look presentable.
A late afternoon scene along the Tejas Trail, Guadalupe Mountains National Park, Texas. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm @ 24mm, f/11, 1/10s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom, DXO Nik Viveza 2 and Color Efex Pro 4.
There was good light on the mountainside, but the shadows were quickly encroaching upon the scene. If not for motion in the vegetation, I could have tried creating an HDR image or stacked a number of images. In this image I applied color, contrast, brightness and structure adjustments in DXO Nik software via numerous control points. Then more adjustments in DXO Nik Color Efex Pro 4. I added a vignette frame around the edges to eliminate an obvious vignette in one corner of the original image that was caused by my filter holder.
Moving a bit more back down the trail, I stopped to shoot in another location, before the light disappeared completely. Again I had to make a number of exposures, trying to balance the shadows and highlight, but none came out really well and HDR was, again, not an option.
Late day sunlight along a mountain top in Guadalupe Mountains National Park, Texas. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 42mm, f/11, 1/20s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom, DXO Nik Viveza 2 and Color Efex Pro 4.
One can see how far the shadows have moved up the mountainside in just a short time interval. This image is edited in a very similar fashion to the previous one. I could have brought out more detail in the shadows, but chose not to do so in this case.
I tried a few more shots as I moved back down the trail, but none worked out very well. The evening was pleasant and there was a full or near full moon that evening, so the walk back to the RV parking lot was quite pleasant and well lit by moonlight, so I did not have to get out my headlamp.
This photo shoot did not turn out as well as I had hoped, but at least I got a couple of reasonable images and had a pleasant moonlight hike back along the trail.
I had picked out a few possible places for sunrise shots the following and last morning of my visit, but none of those were really appealing, so I decided to forego getting up early for a morning shoot and get an earlier start on the road to the next destination.
This park has much more to see than I had time to get to. In particular, McKittrick Canyon is reportedly very nice in the fall, so maybe I can make another visit one fall. I would also like to get into the gypsum dunes in the Salt Basin. So I really need to find time to plan another visit.
After a strenuous previous day and getting to bed late with no firm plans for where to go for early morning photos, I decided to sleep in a bit and scout the area again during the morning and afternoon for possible locations for sunset photos.
After breakfast, I walked the trail to the visitor center looking around for possible photo locations along the way. Since I had hiked a substantial portion of the Guadalupe Peak Trail the previous day, I figured that I had earned the right to purchase and display a pin from the park in my collection, so I picked up the pin and inquired about the road into the Salt Basin, hoping to get time to visit the gypsum sand dunes in the western portion of the park. No one there had any update on the condition of the long clay road into that portion of the park. After thinking about this, I decided against attempting to get into the Salt Basin on this trip. I only had that afternoon and the next morning to spend in the park and the Salt Basin area is a day use area only, meaning no overnight camping or parking there. For sunrise photos, I would have to get up early the next morning and drive quite a way to get to the access road and then there was no way to know if I would be able to drive the last portion of the road and I would have no idea of where to go, anyway. For sunset photos, I ran the risk of losing my already paid for second night in the RV site, where the slots are on a first come basis; but there seemed to be no way to show that a site was already taken, if no vehicle was parked there. This eliminated the gypsum dunes for sunset photos.
Upon returning to my vehicle, I decided to check out the Tejas Trail from which I thought I might be able to get late day shots with golden hour light as I had observed it the previous evening on the mountainside to the east of the trail.
The lower portion of the Tejas Trail is much easier than the Guadalupe Peak Trail. Again I hiked with only my Camelbak with water, snacks, GPS (for safety and for recording waypoints at possible photo sites) and iPhone. I looked for possible photo sites along the trail, making a number of iPhone scouting shots. These shots were all taken around mid-day to early afternoon, so the light was harsh with the sun almost directly overhead, so there were not even any shadows to give the photos depth.
I am presenting a few of those scouting photos in this post with comments regarding the ideas for later DSLR images and some notes on editing photos.
Someone from McAllen, TX left this mark on a tree along the Tejas Trail in Guadalupe NP. iPhone Photo
This first image is an example of what is seen much too often and illustrates what one should not do in our national parks. Someone just could not resist defacing one of the trees along the trail.
An old tree trunk with highlights along the Tejas Trail in Guadalupe NP. iPhone Photo
Even with mid-day light, it is sometimes possible to get interesting images. The one above is a portion of a gnarly, weathered, fallen tree, mostly in the shade of another tree with sunlight dappling across it. This is a jpeg image, so the editing is limited; but I’ve tweaked it a bit in Adobe Lightroom, then applied additional editing in DXO Nik software. I typically like to add several filters in Color Efex Pro 4, depending upon the photo, with a slight touch of brilliance, detail extraction, sometimes a graduated neutral density and a slight skylight filter. One has to be careful not to over do it with these filters. Sometimes, I will note that a favorite filter is just too much and I either have to tone it down or eliminate it.
A scouting photo along the Tejas Trail, Guadalupe NP. iPhone Photo
I hoped to get sunset light on the features in the mountain side, but I also needed something in the foreground and/or framing objects. So I experimented with these concepts as I walked along the trail. I applied a little lens fall off vignetting in the above image to tone down some of the unattractive foreground and to reduce the plain sky.
A scouting photo along Tejas Trail, Guadalupe NP. iPhone Photo
Another foreground/framing possibility is illustrated here. Again, I used a little lens fall off vignetting to reduce the foreground clutter and to add a focusing effect into the image.
A scouting photo along the Tejas Trail, Guadalupe NP. iPhone Photo.
The image above has a vignetting filter, that I do not often use, applied in Nik Color Efex Pro 4. I thought it worth experimenting with in these flat, bland photos. I think this one serves quite well in this case. It tones down the foreground clutter, reduces the plain sky and focuses on the main subject.
A scouting photo along the Tejas Trail, Guadalupe NP. iPhone Photo
I kept hiking along the trail, trying to get closer to this particular feature on the mountainside, hoping to find a good vantage point to photograph it later in the day. Here, again, I’ve added vignetting to reduce the foreground clutter and focus the eye on the main subject.
A scouting photo along the Tejas Trail, Guadalupe NP. iPhone Photo
The boulder in the lower right anchors the foreground in this image and I think with it located diagonally from the peak in the upper left, helps to give this image some depth and visual tension. Vignetting is used again to reduce the unattractive clutter around the edges and guides the eye into the image. The vignette center can be moved and in this case, it has been moved slightly to the left.
A scouting photo along the Tejas Trail, Guadalupe NP. iPhone Photo.
This is just an experiment with a monochrome version of the previous image. Sometimes harsh light images can be more appealing images in monochrome. In this case, the lack of shadows results in too flat an image to be interesting.
A scouting photo along the Tejas Trail, Guadalupe NP. iPhone Photo
Just another experimental foreground for the prominent feature in the mountainside. The Cholla is weathered and not very attractive; but there is at least a hint of clouds developing in the sky.
A scouting photo along the Tejas Trail, Guadalupe NP. iPhone Photo
Ah, if I could find this at sunset, I think I would get a good image!
The second destination in my Spring 2019 road trip was Guadalupe Mountains National Park (GUMO). According to my map, the travel time to GUMO from the Sandhills via the shortest route should be about 2.5 hours. However, a backup due to road construction on US 285, just past a signal light at my turn off from US 285, resulted in an hour delay. The longer routes would probably have been faster, but I did not double check the traffic before I set out. My bad!
Guadalupe Mountains rising from the plains of West Texas. This is an iPhone photo taken from miles away from the mountains.
In the above photo the sharp drop off on the left end of the mountain range is a feature referred to as El Capitan.
After getting to GUMO, setting up in the RV parking lot and having a brief lunch, it was around 3PM. Since I had never visited here, I did not have any idea about where to go for sunset photos. After reviewing the trails and information on those trails, I decided to take the Guadalupe Peak Trail, but not to take my camera gear. It was overcast, so the prospects for good sunset light was slim and I knew the heavy camera gear would really slow my pace on the trail.
An image from the park websiteTrail information from alltrails.com
This trail is around 8-9 miles round trip, rated strenuous and the literature said to allow 6 to 8 hours for the round trip. By the time I made my preparations for the hike, it was well after 3PM. So even if I could make the round trip in only 6 hours (doubtful), it would be after 9PM and dark before I made it back. I took my headlamp and an extra flashlight and extra batteries, just in case, but I knew it was not a good idea to be on this trail in the dark.
Shortly after getting underway on the trail, I realized that not bringing the camera gear was a good decision. There are very strenuous portions of this trail, it is mostly steep with considerable rocky portions requiring care in hiking. As I met hikers coming down and heard their comments, I really began to realize that I would probably not make it to the top, if I expected to get back down before dark.
This image illustrates why this trail is rated as “strenuous”. (iPhone Photo)
The weather was good for this hike, since it was cool and overcast. Even so, I quickly worked up a sweat, hiking with only a shirt and t-shirt on my upper body. I had put a fleece, gloves and windbreaker in my backpack, since I knew it would be cold somewhere along the trail. Indeed, in some windy portions it got quite cool with even a light snow off and on; but the effort going up the trail kept me warm.
If only I had a mount from which to dismount. iPhone Photo
As I progressed and became hungry, I realized that I had forgotten to put my trail bar snacks into my day pack. Fortunately, I had a full reservoir of water in my Camelbak. Otherwise, I would have had to turn around. Wanting to go as far as possible, I pushed on and I was able to ignore the hunger and my decreasing energy level.
A portion of the cliffs past which equestrians were to lead their horses. iPhone Photo
The haze in the distance of the photo above is actually a light snow.
As I neared the upper portion of the trail, I even began to think that I might actually make it to the top. However, as it passed 6PM, even though thinking I only had about 30 minutes more to hike to the top, I decided it was best to turn back or I would surely be hiking down in the dark.
Elevation profile for Guadalupe Peak Trail
I went some distance past the campground, so maybe I was only a few hundred feet below the peak, when I decided to turn around. It was disappointing to be so close and have to stop before reaching the peak. I just needed to have started about an hour earlier in the day.
I think this is where I decided to head back down the trail. iPhone photoThis is at or near the point on this trail, where I decided to turn back to avoid being on this rugged trail in the dark. The trail goes from the lower right corner down around the scrubby vegetation. iPhone PhotoThis is a view from just below my turn around point on Guadalupe Peak Trail. iPhone PhotoA cloudy, cool day for a hike on Guadalupe Peak Trail. iPhone Photo
The feature on the mountain side at the upper right-center of the above photo is El Capitan.
Since the trip back was mostly steeply downhill, I was able to make much better time than I had expected. I was almost sure that I would have to stop and put on the fleece at some point, but I never wanted to stop long enough to do that. Even had I put the fleece on, I would have had to stop and take it off as I got back to lower elevation.
A view on the way back down Guadalupe Peak Trail. iPhone Photo
There is at least one trail visible along the mountain side in this photo. I think the one in the center is the Tejas Trail.
On the way down, I had to frequently remind myself to slow down on the more treacherous portions of the trail. There were plenty of places with tripping or sliding hazards. I was making such good time on the way down that I passed a few people that I had met on the way up as they were coming down.
Sunset glow on a peak across the wash from Guadalupe Peak Trail. iPhone Photo
The golden hour light in the above photo is what I looked forward to finding the following day.
Golden Hour Glow in Guadalupe Mountains. iPhone Photo
A zoomed in, noisy iPhone photo of the late day light on a peak opposite my route on Guadalupe Peak Trail is above.
A Scene from a lower portion of Guadalupe Peak Trail. iPhone Photo
I was greeted by a nice sunset scene over the plains from the lower portion of the Guadalupe Peak Trail.
I made it back to the RV lot just after dark, with sore, sensitive, achy feet, a strong appetite and no plan for where to go the following morning. I had been on the trail for about 5 hours, so I think I would have made it to the peak and back before dark, if I had started up the trail just an hour earlier.
Sand dunes provide great opportunities for abstract photography. I hope that the few such photographs shared in this post will illustrate such possibilities.
This image is created via focus stacking 4 images in Adobe Photoshop, with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DXO Nik software. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 1/50s, ISO 64.
Wind creates large expanses of ripples and repeating patterns in sand dunes, such as those shown above. These can be rendered effectively in color, if the light is favorable. I like monochrome for such photos, since one only needs the light to provide shadows and highlights, meaning one can shoot at times other than just the “golden” hours.
By excluding moving objects, one can use focus stacking quite effectively in such images, getting sharp images over a large depth range.
Sandhills Abstract. Nikon d850, Nikon 24-70mm at 55mm, f/11, 1/50s, ISO 200. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and DXO Nik software.
I really like this photo with the diagonal ripples superimposed on the orthogonal wave in the dune. Obviously, the shadows in the troughs, alternating with the highlights on the crests of the ripples, produces these interesting features.
A composite of three images focus stacked in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DXO Nik software. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 46mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 200.
This is another of my favorite abstracts from the sandhills. In this case, I like the highlight in the depression near the top right of the image and the way the ripples flow into and around the depression.
A composite of three images, focus stacked in Adobe Photoshop, with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DXO Nik software. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 40mm, f/11, 1/60s, ISO 200.
Another image with interesting, bifurcating, ripple patterns with faint wisps of plant matter (look closely to see these) across the ripples.
This is a composite of 6 images focus stacked in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DXO Nik software. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 48mm, f/11, 1/125s, ISO 200.
The animal track across these subdued ripples adds interest to the pattern. The original color version also shows variations in the color of the sand, producing streaks of color crossing the ripples.
Natural artwork in the sandhills. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm (before crop), f/11, 1/15s, ISO 200. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and DXO Nik software.
I’m sure some of you have seen images of circles swept into sand by plant fronds or limbs. Here is a variation on that with the lower frond producing long streaks across the sand ripples and the upper frond pecking out an intricate, dimpled pattern along the direction of the sand ripples. To me such natural art work is fascinating. These are also short lived, since the next wind will probably erase these or maybe produce a variation. So, if you see an interesting one, photograph it before it is gone!
