Hiking In Joshua Tree National Park – Part 1

In the spring of 2018, my oldest son and I visited Joshua Tree National Park in Southern California. We photographed in the park in the early morning, late afternoon and night. During the middle hours of the day we scouted for places to photograph and/or we hiked several of the easy to moderate trails within the park. This post is about the Contact Mine Trail with illustrations via iPhone photos.

The Contact Mine Trail is an easy one, with a gentle slope, gaining only 700 feet in just under two miles. As we hiked along the trail we began to notice a barrel type cactus with red spines.

A colorful California Barrel Cactus along the Contact Mine Trail, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Later research revealed that this cactus is referred to by its obvious common name “California Barrel Cactus”. As we hiked along, it became obvious that this area had many of these attractive red cactus, some with yellow blooms. My iPhone shots of blooms near the bottom of one such cactus did not turn out well, so none are posted here. I have seen other images with blooms on the top, but I do not recall seeing any with blooms on the top and most did not have blooms.

A close up of the spines on a California Barrel Cactus along the Contact Mine Trail, Joshua Tree NP. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

In the early history of this area there were numerous mining operations, which have since been abandoned. Remnants of equipment and or housing remain at some of the mine sites.

The Contact Mine Site has remains of old mining equipment, other rusty evidence of human activity and mine shafts that have been covered with steel cages to prevent people from entering.

The remains of an engine at the Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.

Neither of us carried our heavy camera gear on this hike and I shot a number of iPhone photos just to record the scenes and the experience. I’ve edited the iPhone (jpg) images with some minor adjustments in Adobe LR, followed by edits in Nik software.

Rusty engine at the Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

I’m including duplicates of some images to show the variations between color edits and monochrome edits.

Remains of machinery at the Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
Rusty old mining equipment at the Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Edits can bring out texture, contrasts and colors. I tend to like the monochrome versions better than the color versions. The monochrome versions depend mostly upon the composition, texture, contrast and shadows. While it is possible to manipulate the monochrome images in many ways to achieve artistic effects, these type edits just seem more appropriate to me, than the color software edits.

Mine equipment remains, Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
Rusty engine components at the Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Color editing software can allow one to emulate the effects of the “Golden Light Hours” in photos taken outside these magical times of the day; but the emulation is never quite the same as the real light effects, getting into the more artistic edits of the images, about which there can be much philosophical discussion.

Mine equipment remains, Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
Rusty mine equipment at the Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

I’m not getting into the debate over photo editing, since that is a subjective matter. I used to be of the opinion that one could only get good images during the Golden Light Hours of sunrise or sunset and, while I prefer to photograph during those magic light hours, sometimes it is not possible to do so. Rather than pass up photographic opportunities in places, where I know I will never be during the golden light hours, I’ve reconciled to working with whatever light I have at the time, then editing to get an image that I find pleasing from an artistic point of view.

Mine equipment remains, Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
Rusty gear at the Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

I do still feel that the color editing is more unreal than the monochrome edits; but maybe that is just because monochrome images have been in existence in photography for many more years and we study the works of the early pioneers in photography, whose work was entirely in monochrome.

Mine equipment remains, Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
Rusty mine equipment at the Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Anyway, the early photographers manipulated the monochrome images in the dark room, just as modern digital photographers manipulate the images via computer software.

Mine equipment remains, Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
Rusty gear box at the Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

I would like to hear readers’ opinions on this matter as well as critiques of any of my images (composition and/or edits).

Beaver Tail Prickly Pear in bloom, Contact Mine Trail, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Remains of a winch at the Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
Remains of a winch at the Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Equipment remains at the Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone Photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
Contact Mine winch remains, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone Photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
Old mine cart rails at the Contact Mine Site, Joshua Tree NP, California. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

A final note:  I reverted to an older version of the WordPress editor for this post, since I could find no way to insert links into photos with the “improved” editor.  Verifying that the links were correct, even with the classic editor, proved more awkward than previously.  Please let me know if links do not work or are not correct.

Until next time,

Ken

Hiking & Photographing Slot Canyons near Escalante, Utah – Part 2

On day two in Escalante, my two sons and I went back to Peek-A-Boo Slot Canyon,  this time with several cargo tie down straps to use as aids, if necessary in getting into and out of the upper portion of the canyon.

The two sons with me had some experience with rock climbing.  The oldest dropped into the canyon via the steep slick rock at the upstream entrance point, leaving his backpack and camera behind on this test entrance into the canyon.  He was able to immediately climb out.  Now we knew that at least one of us could climb out unassisted and if necessary, he could assist the other two of us out.  So we all entered the canyon to begin our exploration and photography inside it.

This entrance point was in a wide, open portion of the canyon with the very narrow, short section at the beginning of the canyon on one end of the open area and the entrance to the main portion of the canyon on the opposite end.

We looked into the short beginning section first, one at a time, since it was too small for more than one person at a time to get into and out of.

Shadow Photographer. Nikon D90, Nikon 12-24mm DX at 12mm, f/11, 1/160s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

While waiting my turn to enter the first section of the slot, I killed some time shooting my shadow on the sunlit side of the canyon.

Shadow Photographer. Nikon D90, Nikon 12-24mm DX at 12mm, f/11, 1/160s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.

The upstream end of Peek-A-Boo Slot Canyon, Escalante, Utah. Nikon D90, Nikon 12-24mm DX at 12mm, f/11, 1/50s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

The upstream beginning of the slot is shown in the photo above.  It is clear from the photo how narrow the entrance is and one can only go a short distance into this section of the slot.

Peek-A-Boo Slot Canyon, Escalante, Utah. Nikon D90, Nikon 12-24mm at 12mm, f/11, (three shots HDR, 2.0s, 1.3s, 0.8s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR, Skylum Aurora 2019 and Color Efex Pro 4.

We worked our way through the slot, photographing as we went along.

Peek-A-Boo Slot Canyon, Escalante, Utah. Nikon D90, Nikon 12-24mm at 12mm, f/11, 0.4s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

I do not recall meeting anyone coming from the other end of the canyon on our way down towards the main entrance; but we did begin to meet a few others as we went back up to our drop in point.

Upstream side of a small arch in Peek-A-Boo Slot Canyon, Escalante, Utah. Nikon D90, Nikon 12-24mm at 12mm, f/11, 2.5s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Not far from the downstream entry, there is a small arch cut into the rock, which one can see near the bottom center of the photo above.

Downstream end of a small arch in Peek-A-Boo Slot Canyon, Escalante, Utah. Nikon D90, Nikon 12-24mm at 12mm, f/11, 6.0s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

One has to crawl through the small arch to proceed.  The downstream view of the arch is the light area in the center of the photo above.  The opening is quite small, so only small people can fit through it.  There is some room around the side of the arch, which I recall being rather tight; but it might be possible to navigate around the arch, rather than through it.  Going through the arch was definitely more fun than trying to go around it, anyway.

Triple Arch in Peek-A-Boo slot canyon, Escalante, Utah. Nikon D90, Nikon 12-24mm at 24mm, f/11, (4 exposure HDR, 0,8s, 1.0s, 1.3s, 1.6s), ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR, Skylum Aurora 2019 and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Just prior to the downstream entrance there are three large arches, which can be seen in the photo above.  The large rocks in the foreground form one arch and the other two can be seen behind it.

Triple Arch in Peek-A-Boo Slot Canyon, Escalante, Utah. Nikon D90, Nikon 12-24mm at 15mm, f/13, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Looking over the rock at the bottom of the first arch, we saw a hole with muddy water in it.  We could not tell how deep the hole and water were, so we did not attempt to go further, electing to back track up the canyon to our entrance point.  One can see the light at the end of the slot near the top center of the photo above.

Thinking back to the previous day here, even had we or the young Swiss man gotten up the sheer entrance wall at the main, downstream entrance, it is unlikely that any of us would have been able to continue past this point.

We encountered several people on our trip back up the canyon, having to wait at the wider places in the slot to pass each other.  As we got near the upstream entrance point, we found a 50-ish year old female hiker sitting on a ledge in the canyon wall.  She had injured her knee along the way.  Those that we passed in the canyon were her family members, whom she had told to go ahead and get her on the way out.  She had only a small, almost empty, water bottle, so we first filled her bottle with water from one of our water reservoirs.  Then, thinking it was not a good idea to leave her there by herself, we offered to help her get back to the entrance point, at least.  She could put weight on her knee, but had to be careful not to let it bend sideways, as it would give way.  I let her lean on me as we slowly worked our way back to the entrance.  I was a bit concerned about supporting her, as she was not a small (not obese, but hefty) woman.

Upon arriving at the entrance, we were considering how we could get her out of the canyon and were in the process of tying the cargo straps together, when another hiker came up from the main entrance direction.  He told us he had a friend, a medic with technical climbing gear, back down the canyon, if we wanted to ask him for help.  Of course, we did.  So the hiker went back into the slot and returned with his friend.  At some point the injured woman’s family members returned, as well.

The medic examined the knee and recognized the problem.  The injured woman was a large animal veterinarian from upstate New York and she knew quite a bit about anatomy and what was wrong with her knee, with which the medic agreed.  The medic also knew exactly how to rig up the ropes to make a sling for getting her out of the canyon.  He and others then worked the rope to pull her up the steep slope of the canyon, while others went along by her to help and make sure she did not slip back.

Once on the canyon bank, my oldest son used paracord from his emergency bracelet to tie a portion of a tripod leg to the side of the injured vet’s leg to help keep the knee from bending sideways.  She was able to use the remainder of the tripod as a walking stick.  She and her family began the hike out, while we stayed behind, having a snack before we started back.  We quickly caught up with the injured woman and her party, where they had stopped to rest for a few minutes.

We hiked ahead, thinking it was going to be a slow, arduous hike for the injured woman, especially when they got to the steep, sandy slope followed by the slick rock climb back to the parking area.

On our way back along Hole In The Rock Road, we passed an SUV that was upside down just off of the roadway.  There were young boys, maybe college age, standing around and a sheriff’s deputy in his vehicle.  Fortunately, no one seemed injured.  We speculate that they were driving too fast on the very washboarded road and lost control of their vehicle, sliding off to the side and flipping.  We had noted that one had to drive slowly or the bouncing caused by the washboarding would cause a vehicle to drift.

In the late afternoon, we returned along this roadway to an area called Devil’s Garden, where we would shoot at sunset and then star trail photos after dark.

Devil’s Garden Rocks, Escalante, Utah. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 62mm, f/13, 1/25s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

As we were scouting around the area, I heard someone call, “Hey, guys”.  I initially thought I had walked into someone’s photo composition and looking around, I spotted the large animal veterinarian.  She was wearing a knee brace and walking with crutches.  We were happy to see that she had gotten back from her hike and surprised to see her out again.  She told us she had been telling everyone about how we came along and helped her out of the slot canyon.

Metate Arch, Devil’s Garden, Escalante, Utah. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 32mm, f/11, 1/20s, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Escalante Devil’s Garden Rock Formations. Nikon D90, Nikon 12-24mm DX at 18mm (prior to crop), f/22, 1/8s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4

I know this has been a long post, but I hope that readers will glean some safety tips here, in addition to photographic tips for photographing in this area.

Metate Arch, Escalante, Utah. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 60mm, f/13, 1/50s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Metate Arch, Escalante, Utah. Nikon D90, Nikon 12-24mm DX at 12mm, f/11, 1/10s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4

Devil’s Garden Star Trails 2014. The foreground rock is light painted and captured with a Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm @ 31mm, f/8, 105s, ISO 200. The star trails are produced by stacking the foreground shot with 65 90s exposures shot with Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 31mm, f/2.8, ISO 200. Preliminary edits in Adobe LR, photos stacked in Adobe Photoshop.

There is much more to see in this area (we never got to Zebra Slot or to the end of Hole In The Rock Road), so I expect I will return one day.

On our last day near Escalante, as we were leaving, we hiked several miles along a sandy creek to a waterfall.  I’m including one photo of that fall here.

Lower Calf Creek Falls, Escalante, Utah. Nikon D90, Nikon 12-24mm at 12mm, f/22, 1/10s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

This will be the last post for this year.  I wish and hope that you all have a happy holiday season.

Ken

My First Big Bend National Park Visit – An Ill Fated Adventure

This post goes back a few years and some of you may have heard this story before.  My first visit to Big Bend National Park remains one of the most memorable, though unsuccessful, trips that I have taken, so I’m revisiting it here, since I will not have anything new to blog about for awhile.

Frosty Sotol and other vegetation along Basin Road in Big Bend NP, Texas. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 24mm, f/11, 1/100s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

This trip to Big Bend was supposed to cover a total of 10 days (Dec 30 – Jan 8), two for travel and the rest in the park; but our plans went considerably awry due to circumstances beyond our control. It was a bit like those comedy vacation movies you have probably all seen.

Heavy frost on Big Bend NP vegetation along Basin Road. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 32mm, f/11, 1/100s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

This is a bit of a long story, so I apologize in advance and will understand, if you elect not to read all the details.
When we (myself and three of my four sons) planned the trip, there were no available rooms in the lodge in the park until Jan 4; but we were able to get lodging in Terlinqua Dec. 30 to Jan 4 and the park lodge from Jan 4 until Jan 8.
A winter storm was forecast for the initial day of our trip and we drove through rain, freezing weather, sleet and snow showers on the way to Terlingua.  Ice accumulated on the vehicle and windshield, but the roadways did not ice over during our journey.  Fortunately, we got into Terlingua, prior to the really bad freezing rain and icy road conditions over most of southwest Texas that day and night.
For the best photography, we wanted good early morning and late day light.  Instead, we got heavily overcast skies for most of our useable time there. Consequently, we spent the first day Dec. 31, driving around the park and checking out the area in general.  We did hike about .8 miles into Santa Elena Canyon and hoped to come back when the weather cleared.  I made a few shots in the canyon, but they were just blah.
The evening of Dec. 31, we had dinner in a local restaurant/bar and watched a football bowl game (Oregon beat Florida State to our enjoyment).  When we got in our vehicle, after dinner, (a 2014 Nissan Rogue, that one of my sons, who was supposed to go with us, but backed out due to his business considerations, had let us use), we had low air pressure indications in one tire.  The tires were run flat, so there was no spare.  We had sufficient air to drive the short distance back to the motel.  The next morning (Jan 1) the tire was completely flat.  We were able to inflate the tire, using our little air compressor and we could drive the vehicle; but we were afraid to get far away from the motel for fear of getting stranded somewhere and no way to call for help (there is very scant and weak cell phone coverage in the area).  Being New Years Day, there was no way to get the tire repaired that day and there was only one place in Terlingua to fix the tire.  I was at that place before it opened the morning of Jan 2 and got the tire repaired; although they could not reset the low tire indicator.
While we were considering our options for that day, the power went out, due to a truck reportedly taking out numerous power poles somewhere to the north of us.  The local motel restaurant/gas station employed a large portable generator to continue operating, so we could at least eat; but since the roads were iced over north of us, no gasoline deliveries were being made.  The one and only gas station in Terlingua at our motel ran out of gas.  We were able to get gas at one of the two stations in the park that had a generator, shortly before it ran out of gas.   Some portions of the roads in the park were icy, requiring great care driving on them.

Frosty Sotol and other vegetation along the icy Basin Road in Big Bend NP, Texas. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 24mm, f/10, 1/250s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Heavy frost on Big Bend NP vegetation along Basin Road. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 1/80s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

It is a long drive into and out of the park, so by the time we got back to our lodging in Terlingua, our gas level was down a bit.  We heard there was gas at a small store in Lajitas, 17 miles from Terlingua, so we drove over there to top off our tank, arriving there just before the store closed.  They were also running out of gas; but we were able to top off our tank.

Frosty vegetation along Basin Road in Big Bend NP, Texas. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 24mm, f/11, 1/160s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nike Color Efex Pro 4.

Heavy frost on Big Bend NP vegetation along Basin Road. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 38mm, f/11, 1/100s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nike Color Efex Pro 4.

With gasoline in short supply and uncertainty on when delivery of additional supplies would resume, we were reluctant to get out and about.  So we hung around our lodging, hoping to get updates on road conditions, fuel deliveries and weighing our options.
{I had purchased the last 8-D cell Coleman lantern with detachable, rechargeable lights on it and batteries in the motel store, so we had light for our room.  The detachable LED lights’ batteries were charged via the 8 D cell batteries, so we could detach one of those smaller lights to take into the bathroom.  I now take this lantern with me in the Sportsmobile, just in case I need it, and maintain its batteries here in case of a power outage in our home}.
On Saturday, Jan 3, our motel was running out of water, due to no power for the well pump.  The motel managers were asking all that had enough gas to get to Alpine to leave.  The local cell phone tower was out and the local phone lines did not work, so no one  could call anywhere to check on anything.  We decided to go to the park lodge and check on conditions there.  We had already been there on our trip into the park to get gas and knew they had no power; but we did not know what their water situation was.  The park lodge had rooms available, due to cancellations, and they had water (and hot water), so we decided to stay there.

Frosty vegetation along icy Basin Road in Big Bend NP, Texas. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 24mm, f/11, 1/80s, ISO 64, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

{An aside about the hot water system in the park lodge:  Before we decided to stay, I asked at the lodge check in desk about hot water for showers.  No one there had any idea about what kind of water heating system they had or whether they even had hot water.  They said they would find out, but we decided to stay anyway, not having any other good choice, other than to drive somewhere else.  We never got an answer to our question from the front desk, but we had hot water, so apparently they had gas water heaters}.
The lodge restaurant had no power, were not getting food deliveries due to road conditions, but they were operating with a reduced menu, so we were able to eat.
There is a trail from the lodge area that follows a drainage down to a place referred to as “The Window”, where there is a drop off into the valley below and a view through the canyon window of the valley.  We only ventured a short distance along that trail, shooting a few moon light photos that night.

A moon light shot from the upper portion of The Window Trail, Chisos Mountains, Big Bend NP, Texas. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 24mm, f/11, 377s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Sunset silhouette in the Chios Mountains, Big Bend NP, Texas. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 1/25s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nike Color Efex Pro 4.

The next day, Sunday, Jan. 4, the report had not changed. No one really knew when gasoline would arrive and power was not expected to be restored until Tuesday.  We might have been able to do a bit in a limited area around the lodge; but we were reluctant to use our gasoline to get around in the park, so we decided that since we had more than enough gas to get to Fort Stockton, that it was worth the risk to try to make it there.  We did not really know what the conditions were in Fort Stockton.  We had heard mixed reports about power,  gasoline availability and road conditions.

Heavy frost on Big Bend National Park vegetation along the Basin Road. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm @ 38mm, f/11, 1/160s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nike Silver Efex Pro 2.

We passed through Marathon, which had no power and hence no gasoline.  We passed several stations in Fort Stockton that had no gas, began to worry,  but we found a convenience store station with gas. We filled up and were on our way, thinking we would be back in Rockwall that day.
A few miles (about 30, I think) north of Fort Stockton on route 18, as I was driving, the auto engine died.  I coasted off of the roadway and tried to restart the engine with no success.  My older son, who had pumped the gas, began to worry that he might have put the wrong gasoline or even diesel in the engine.  Fortunately, we had cell service (earlier portions of this road did not) so I called AAA and learned that the nearest place they could find that had an auto shop that could service our vehicle was in Midland/Odessa, 60+ miles away and the nearest tow services they had were also in Midland/Odessa.  Since there was a Nissan dealer in Odessa, I arranged to have the vehicle towed there.  I was also able to find a motel a couple of blocks down the street from the dealer and was able to get a room reserved there.  There were three of us and normally, the tow trucks have room for only two passengers; but AAA checked with the tow service and they said they could accommodate all of us, since we did not have a child seat to deal with.
The tow truck arrived a couple of hours after the initial call to AAA.  Needless, to say the front seat of the tow truck was a bit crowded with the driver plus the three of us.   I let the kids use the two available passenger seat belts and I sat forward on the edge of the seat with no seat belt, leaning on the dash.  The driver told us to not bother with the seat belts, saying “We never use those”, and he was not using one.  He was also doing paper work, texting and other things while driving.  My older son later told me he was sure we were going to die in that truck.
As we neared Odessa, my phone buzzed.  I check it and had a recorded message from the reservation system for the lodge in Big Bend, informing me they were canceling my reservation due to weather conditions, lack of power, etc.  No doubt that message had gone out to my phone, when I had no service and I was receiving it much too late, when it no longer mattered.
The tow truck driver stopped by the motel and let us unload our luggage, then I rode with the driver to the dealership.  Due to ice on the drive in front of the service entrance, it was a chore to unload the vehicle and I had to help the driver work the vehicle off of the flatbed.  Of course, being Sunday the dealership was not open.  I filled out the drop off form, etc.  I had planned to walk back to the motel; but the tow truck driver was going back that way, so he dropped me off.
We walked a few blocks from the motel to a bar/restaurant, had a late lunch and watched an NFL playoff game.  Back at the motel, we settled in for the night.  I began to have the initial indications of getting a cold that Sunday afternoon; but I initially though it was just a dry cough from the cold weather.  The cough and sinus drainage was enough that I had considerable trouble sleeping.  My two kids like it quite, when they sleep and were using ear plugs.   My older son likes it dark, so he was wearing an eye mask, too.
Sometime between 11:00PM and midnight, the room entry way light came on.  Turning over,  I saw someone in a dark coat leaving the room.  I could see one son still in bed, so I though my older son might have gone to the lobby for a snack or something to drink.  I lay in bed for a few minutes, but being a little concerned, I got up, went to the bathroom and sipped warm water to sooth my throat.  When I came out, I saw that both of my sons were still sleeping.  I thought maybe the older one had come back, while I was in the bathroom.  I noted that the safety latch on the door was not closed, so I closed it.  Just to be sure, I looked around and did not see anything missing (we had a considerable quantity of camera gear about the room).  I turned out the light and went back to bed.  Shortly afterwards the room phone rang, waking the two kids.  I fumbled in the dark for the phone; but did not get to it in time.  Since the kids were awake, I told them what I had seen.  They were sure that I had dreamed it and were sure the light had not come on, until I turned it on after the phone range.  The phone rang again as we were talking and it was the front desk, apologizing for calling, but asking if there were any belonging in the room when we moved in.  I told them there weren’t anyone else’s belonging in the room and I reported that someone had just been in my room.  They confirmed that, telling me that someone from the electric power transmission repair company had been checked into our room.  I did not really understand how this was possible and did not get more details until the next morning.
I stopped at the front desk before I went out to the Nissan dealership early Monday morning.  The night person who had called in the middle of the night was still there and was briefing the day shift about what had happened.  Apparently, the Oncor repair person had a room there with his belonging in it and was being reassigned to another room, where his belongings were to be moved.  Apparently, he had been given our room number by the crew changing his room assignment, then we were given that room, when we checked in.  The day shift did not pass the correct information to the night shift, which had no clue into which room his belonging had been moved and apparently took his word for the room that he was to be assigned to, not checking to see that that room was already taken.  When the Oncor person came in, he was given new key cards to our room, which wiped out our key cards.  I got new keys while at the desk.  I, also, explained our situation to the front desk people, telling them that we might need the room for a few days.  I was assured that that was not a problem.
I walked to the Nissan dealership to be there at opening time, to find that it was still locked up and no one around.  I stood outside in the cold, until someone finally showed up late to open the dealership.   I got to, at least, talk to the master technician, who opened the place, about the vehicle symptoms and, explaining our situation, asked that he expedite the repair, if possible.  I asked that he call me as soon as possible after the diagnosis, since we needed to make a decision about our motel situation.  Getting no call prior to the motel check out time,  I called and was informed that the fuel pump was the culprit and they would have to order it; but at least the part was covered under the warranty.  They thought they might get it on Tuesday; but were not sure, because of the weather issues.  At least we had a place to stay that night.
An hour before check out time on Tuesday morning, I began calling the Nissan dealership to get an update.  I had to leave a message with the phone receptionist, who promised a call back.  Thirty minutes later, having received no return call, I called again, was put on hold and after more than 10 minutes on hold, I hung up and called again. It took several renditions to finally get to talk to someone, who knew anything.  The fuel pump had arrived and the best we could get out of them was that the repair would be completed by 6pm.  Just to be sure, that we would still have a room that night, I called the front desk to make sure our stay was still extended.  The very same person who told me that he would extend the room for three days, told me they had no capacity for extending our stay.  They, at least, agreed to call around to help us find another room.  There were other motels very nearby, but none of those had rooms available.  We walked to the dealership to try to get a better idea of when the vehicle would actually be ready and learned it would be ready around 3pm.  So we decided that was early enough to safely (we were still concerned about road icing late at night) drive home that day.
To end of a long story, we made it back home safely around 9:45PM.
We did see much of the park from the roadways.  There was one stretch of the basin road with heavy frost cover, from the mist hanging over it, that was absolutely beautiful.

Frosty Sotol and other vegetation along Basin Road in Big Bend NP, Texas. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70 at 24mm, f/10, 1/250s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.

Frosty vegetation along Basin Road in Big Bend NP, Texas. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 24mm, f/11, 1/160s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.

Frosty vegetation along Basin Road in Big Bend NP, Texas. Nikon D90, Nikon 24-70mm at 60mm, f/11, 1/160s, ISO 200, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Please remember to always fasten the safety latch on your public lodging room.
But wait, there is more.  Some weeks later, prior to going on another trip, I could not find my Nikon 24-70mm lens.  I knew I had loaned it to one of my sons and I knew he had returned it.  I thought maybe I had loaned it to another one, but they all confirmed that they did not have the lens.  I thought that it might turn up somewhere.  Months went by and I had not found it.  Finally, resolved to having lost the lens, I purchased the newer version of that lens, which cost $1000 more than the one that I lost and which I had only purchased less than two year prior.  A few weeks later, I was informed by the son whose vehicle we had used for the Big Bend trip, that he had found my lens in an inconspicuous place in his vehicle!  (He had checked his vehicle for the lens, after I reported it missing and not found it).  Now having two Nikon 24-70mm lens, I gifted the older one to one of my sons, who also shoots with Nikon cameras.  So at least he got a positive outcome to this trip.  (His manager, overhearing him tell a colleague about this trip, told him “I’m giving you your vacation days back”).

Bisti Wilderness Area – Fall 2018 – Afternoon Day 2

I rested during the day, after my early morning shoot, and spent some time studying the photographs in the book gifted to me by John Eric Hawkins.  John Eric went out a bit earlier than I did that afternoon and I headed out again around 5PM.

My destination for sunset photos was again The Nursery, where I would shoot with my Nikon 24mm PC-E lens.  I do not have much experience with this lens, but I thought this would be a good place to use it.  In my morning conversation with John Eric Hawkins, I asked him what he thought of my idea of using the tilt/shift lens in The Nursery.  He agreed that would be a good place to make use of this type lens.

As I neared my destination, I saw John Eric shooting in an area with small features, that I had scouted the previous day.  I recognized that area as a good place to shoot and I had thought that I might get back there at some point during my visit, so I was intrigued that John Eric was shooting there.  We chatted for brief while.  He really liked that little area for shooting and contrasted it to The Nursery.  As we were chatting, he told me that the 85mm 1.8 lens was a good one for shooting here.  I had recently seen other landscape photos taken with that lens and I could easily see that he was correct in his assertion.  I had a Nikon 85mm 1.8 lens back in my vehicle and I had hoped to get a chance to try it out for landscape shots somewhere on this particular trip, but I never had time to do so. Not wanting to distract John Eric for very long from his shoot, I continued on to The Nursery, which John Eric pointed to from our location, indicating that I could walk more directly to it than the route that I had set up on my GPS via a satellite map view.

Arriving in The Nursery, there was no one else around and I had the place completely to myself for the duration of my shoot.  Again the late day light was very good.

I began experimenting with the PC lens before the golden hour, just to get comfortable with the technique of using this unique lens.  I’ve blogged about this lens and technique previously, but here is a brief description of how to use this type lens.  The general procedure that I use, after setting my composition and determining a starting point for an exposure,  is to focus on the nearest object in the composition, using a large aperture, then tilt the lens to bring distant objects in the composition into focus.  At least with large apertures, the focus on the very nearest point in the composition tends to fall out of focus as those in the distance come into focus.  Decreasing the aperture a little helps with this problem.

I found shooting with the PC lens was a challenge, especially determining when I had proper focus on distant objects, as I tilted the lens.  It appeared that only a very small tilt on the order of 1-2 degrees was required to bring distant objects into focus and it was very difficult to determine when the focus was optimum. The PC-E 24mm is an entirely manual lens, with the exception of metering prior to tilting or shifting the lens.  I was also trying to use large apertures with the tilt and still get good depth of field, since this is one of the capabilities with this lens.

I had what I considered good compositions, with the “cracked eggs” in the foreground and the hillsides in the background or an array of the “cracked eggs” and the focus looked good to me in the field.  However, after reviewing my photos on a large screen, I was very disappointed.  Nearly all of the images were poorly focused or had very shallow DOF.

So what went wrong on this shoot?  There may be several possibilities.  Firstly, the very slight tilt range with very slight changes affecting the focus made it difficult to fine tune the focus.  It is also possible that the tilt might have moved slightly after it was set, even if I locked down the tilt mechanism or maybe locking the mechanism might have resulted in a slight tilt.  Secondly, maybe my eyes can no longer properly detect sharp focus.  Thirdly, maybe I expected too much DOF from this lens with large apertures in landscape photos with lots of depth and maybe I should have shot f/11 to f/16.  In hindsight, I certainly should have made each image with a range of apertures, since I had so little experience with this lens.

On the positive side, this was an experiment, which even though, it was mostly a failure, I can at least learn from the poor results and hopefully get better results with the next trial with this lens and I must practice more with the lens before depending upon it in a shoot of this type.

If any readers have experience with using the PC-E 24mm (or any other tilt/shift lens) for landscape photography, I would appreciate your feedback on this topic.

I only deemed 4 (or parts of 4, cropping some of the images to remove out of focus portions) of the 70+ images that I made on this shoot to be presentable and those are included here.

Bisti “Cracked Eggs”. Nikon D850, Nikon PC-E 24mm, f/8, 1/125s, ISO 64, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.

Bisti “Cracked Eggs” in “The Nursery”. Nikon D850, Nikon PC-E 24mm, f/8, 1/160s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.

Bisti “Cracked Egg” Texture. Nikon D850, Nikon PC-E 24mm (severe crop), f/3.5, 1/500s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.

Bisti “Cracked Eggs” in “The Nursery”. Nikon D850, Nikon PC-E 24mm, f/3.5, 1/50s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Bisti “Cracked Eggs” in “The Nursery”. Nikon D850, Nikon PC-E 24mm, f/3.5, 1/50s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe LR and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.

As usual, these images are posted to my Flickr page, where they may be more easily viewed.

I had planned to get up early the next morning and shoot again at sunrise in the area with the many wing like hoodoos with the Nikon 14-24mm wide angle, which is easier to get more DOF with than the 24-70mm; however, as I walked back to the parking area with the desert rapidly going into darkness, feeling the tiredness setting in, I realized that with a long drive ahead the next day, that it would not be a good idea to start that drive after a short night of sleep and after hiking into and out of Bisti again.  A morning shoot would have resulted in a late start on my long drive, so I slept in until just prior to sunrise Monday morning.  When I peeked out the window, just after awaking, I saw that it was going to be a glorious sunrise with colorful clouds in the eastern sky and I immediately regretted my decision not to do the early morning shoot.

After getting everything packed away and ready for the road trip, I wrote a note to John Eric, since I had not seen any activity from his RV.  As I was about to leave the note on the driver’s side door of John’s RV, he called to me from inside, telling me to come around to the sliding door side.  He and Jean were just finishing breakfast and they were planning to leave that morning, too.  He commented that I must have had a very good morning for shooting and I had to inform him that I had not gone out.  I thanked John again for the book and we chatted for a few minutes before I got underway.

It was only late in the day, as I approached Amarillo, that I realized that my decision not to shoot that morning was for the best.  Otherwise, I would have probably been driving after dark, tired, and less alert, resulting in less safe driving.

There may be only one more minor post related to this fall trip.  I do not know when I will get time for another photo trip.  I expect it will be in the New Year before I get time for another trip, so either there will be an extended break in these posts or, maybe, I might blog about much earlier trips, as I do have several interesting stories and photos that I could share from past years.

Here’s hoping and wishing that you all have a happy end of the year holiday season!

Ken

2018 Colorado Fall Color Road Trip – Day 3 – Sunset – Supplement

After the previous post, I realized that I had forgotten to include a few iPhone photos of my final campsite along Owl Creek Pass Road.  So this is just a brief post to add those photos.  Thanks for your indulgence.

The final campsite along Owl Creek Pass Road, Colorado. Fall 2018, iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

A panorama at the last campsite along Owl Creek Pass Road, Colorado. Fall 2018, iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Panorama of last campsite along Owl Creek Pass Road, Colorado, Fall 2018. iPhone Photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

2018 Colorado Fall Color Road Trip – Day 3 – Sunset

After early and mid-morning photos on day 3 along Owl Creek Pass Road, I drove around exploring other areas and spur roads off of the main forest road, looking for another suitable campsite that would put me near a place for sunset photos.  Many of the best campsites were already taken and I ended up across the creek from my first night’s campsite, where I saw a couple of hunters breaking camp.  I pulled into the site, struck up a conversation with the hunters, the younger one a chemical engineer from Missouri and son-in law of the older one from Arkansas.  The older hunter has been coming to this area since the 1970s.  They had been elk hunting, unsuccessfully; but they had an antler shed, which they offered to me.  Having no desire for the shed, I left it at the campsite for someone else to find.  After they finished loading their considerable camping and hunting equipment, including an OHV, onto a trailer and into their pickup trucks, they headed out and I moved into the flattest area of the site.  This campsite was very open and it was a sunny day, so I put out the solar panels and allowed them to charge the Sportsmobile batteries, until about an hour before sunset, then I packed those away, since I did not want to pack them up after dark and I expected it would be dark soon after my sunset shots.

The views from this site were very similar to those on my first night and first morning of camping, but with more trees and the creek between me and the mountainside.  I walked around the area and down along the creek, looking for suitable places from which to shoot, then had a sandwich, potato chips and Gatorade for dinner, while waiting for the late afternoon light.

The photos from this site were so similar to those from the first day of shooting and with more clutter in the foreground, that I initially thought about not including any in this blog; but as I looked at them a second time, I thought some might look better, if converted to monotone or edited with one of my other image editors, in addition to Lightroom adjustments to the raw images.  So I did just that, experimenting with Nik Silver Effects Pro and Color Effects 4 and Skylum Luminar 2018 software.

The photos posted here are also posted to Flickr (just click on an image), where the images will be sharper and brighter than in this post.

One of only two color photos chosen to post from this shoot. I’m not really enthralled by this composition and in particular the bland sky, but I think it might be the best of the color images that I captured during this shoot. I processed the raw image in Lightroom and Luminar 2018. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 46mm, f/11, 0.4s, ISO 160.

This is the best sunset light that I saw on this feature. I might have brought out the colors in the foreground a bit more, but I wanted the emphasis to be on the rocks in the mountainside.  Raw image processed in Lightroom and Nik Color Effects Pro 4. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 1/20s, ISO 160.

I really wanted to see the cliff face in this image appear colorful in the setting sunlight, but it never got as much light on it as I wanted. At least, the color bands, shadows and highlight along the rock face add interest in this version. The trees in the foreground are colorful, with contrasting color and shapes, but just did not seem to work as well in the color image.

This large cliff face was just south of my campsite. The rock is not colorful and the setting sun did not produce a colorful glow at any time as the sun went low on the horizon, so this and all the other color photos of this feature were bland. In this B&W conversion, I wanted to emphasize the rock along the edge and top of the mountainside, while keeping hints of the trees in fall color in the foreground. The sky was mostly bland, adding minimal interest, other than the cloud along the right side, so I made the sky go mostly dark, making the cliffside look as if it had been purposely light painted. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 1/10s, ISO 64.

Those of you who have viewed the photos from my first blog about this photo trip will recognize this feature.  In this B&W version,  I like the contrasts produced by variations in the tree foliage color and the shape of the trees in the foreground, as well as the highlight on the rock outcrops. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 1/13s, ISO 160.

This is a similar view to that in the above photo, with more sky, less of the trees in the foreground and more of the mountainside.  The sky was bland, so I let it go black to emphasize the rock along the skyline, while retaining the hints of fall color in the deciduous trees. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 1/15s, ISO 64.

The rock face in the original color photo is very colorful in the setting sunlight; but the foreground is distracting in the color photo. I have kept a hint of the foreground color in the trees in this image, while highlighting the rocks with its texture and shadows. I like the way the two tall evergreen trees appear to be pointing towards the rising moon and the diagonal lines formed by the tree lines and the jagged, horizontal line of the top of the mountainside, both converging near the rising moon. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 1/15s, IDO 64.

I was trying to capture the reflection of color in the sky in the branch of the creek near the center of this image, but it just did not fit well with the rest of the image. I like this B&W conversion with the fall color in the trees, showing up brightly against the dark evergreens. I do not like the tree along the left edge, but I could not find a pleasing composition of this scene that excluded that tree. There is also a halo effect, produced by the Nik Silver Effects Pro software, that is quite noticeable along the top of the peak on the right side of the image. I do not really like this effect; but I currently do not know how to eliminate it. I’m sure there must be a way to tone this down. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 30mm, f/11, 1/3s, ISO 160.

The opinions expressed about the images here are my subjective ones.  I welcome your feedback, opinions and critiques, as I can always use those to improve my work.

Scenes Along Colorado 4 Wheel Drive Roads in the Ouray, Silverton and Telluride Areas of Colorado, Part 2

As the title implies, this is a continuation of the previous post.  The photos in this post are a combination of iPhone and DSLR photos and were taken while traversing these 4 wheel drive roads:  Imogene Pass, Engineer Pass, California Pass and maybe others. (I neglected to take notes of where we were each day and I can’t positively identify the location of some of the photos that I acquired and I am not using a GPS device on my current camera.  This is an issue that I must address in the future).

A typical view that one sees along these roads in the higher elevations is as shown here:

A typical mountain view from a high mountain pass road (iPhone)

We traveled Imogene Pass Road from the Ouray side, accessing it from US 550, splitting off from the road that goes to Yankee Boy Basin (covered in a previous post).  Imogen Pass is the second highest mountain pass in Colorado at 13, 114 feet.  It is rated as moderate, which means that only suitably equipped 4 wheel drive vehicles should attempt this road.  There are Jeep rentals in the local area and we saw many of the rental vehicles on this road, as well as some specialized tour vehicles with seating for passengers in a flat bed area.  Those tour vehicles looked a bit large for these type roads, but apparently their drivers are experienced in driving these roads.  The seating in the tour vehicles appeared to all be in the open, meaning one might get wet and cold, when caught in one of the frequent mountain showers, if not properly prepared for the weather.  Views along the road can be spectacular.  These two photos show the view looking back down the road that we traveled up to the pass:

A view from Imogene Pass Summit (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld)

A view from Imogene Pass summit (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld) (More zoomed in than the previous photo).

A view in the opposite direction, in which we would continue is shown in this photo:

Imogene Pass Summit view (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld)

As along most of these roads, there are numerous abandoned mine sites.  The Imogene Pass road goes through the large Tomboy mine site, which was a really large operation, before it was abandoned in 1928.  The remains of the buildings cover a rather large area and one could spend quite a bit of time wandering around the site.  However, these abandoned mining areas can be dangerous and nearly all are on private property with warning signs not to enter old mines or buildings.  Tomboy is one of the highest ghost towns in the US.  There was a store, school, living quarters for miners and even a YMCA.

A few of the many ruins at the Tomboy Mine townsite (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld)

One can often see views of other mountain roads from these high mountain roadways.  One of the famously difficult 4 wheel drive roads is Black Bear, which has numerous sharp switchbacks, that typically require at least two point turns, even for short wheel base vehicles.  We got a glimpse of Black Bear as we neared Telluride on the way down from Imogene Pass.

A view of the sharp switch backs on the difficult Black Bear 4 wheel drive (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld)

This is not a great photo, a big zoom would have worked better for showing the details of the switchbacks, but I only had a wide angle with me.  Look closely in the green area just below the peak about one third across the photo from the left and you can see the trace of the roadway down the steep mountainside.  There is also a long waterfall almost in the center of the photo in the cliff face.  One has to look very closely to see the waterfall in this photo.

To drive Engineer Pass, we began just off of US 550 between Ouray and Silverton.  This road is rated as moderate and I think most of the difficult part is near the starting point off of US 550.  After passing through that portion, much of the road is fairly easy (easy for me, since I was not driving).  We did not continue the road down into Lake City, electing to go to the ghost town of Animas Forks and continuing along other roads from Animas Forks, over California Pass, down Corkscrew Gulch and arriving back at US 550.

An abandoned mine site as seen from Engineer Pass road (iPhone)

Odom Point along the Engineer Pass road route (iPhone)

Engineer Pass Road (iPhone)

An old mine line shack on the road between Engineer Pass and Animas Forks (iPhone)

Animas Forks Ghost Town near Silverton, Colorado (iPhone)

Animas Forks is a mining ghost town near Silverton, Colorado.  It can be accessed by a passenger vehicle in the summer months along County Road 2 from Silverton or via a number of other 4 wheel drive roads.  There are a number of fairly well preserved building at this site and, as you will see in these photos, is a popular site to visit.

A few of the four wheel drive vehicles in the parking area at Animas Forks ghost town (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld)

Old mine building foundation at Animas Forks ghost town (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld)

One of the better preserved buildings in Animas Forks ghost town (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld)

From Animas Forks, we proceeded along another 4 wheel drive road to California Pass.

A view from California Pass Summit (iPhone)

California Pass Summit (iPhone)

The Jeep at California Pass Summit (iPhone) (Note the GoPro on the driver side front fender).

Long winding 4 wheel drive roads just below California Pass summit (iPhone)

We continued along the road that passes to the left of the lake in the above photo.  The road to the right of the lake goes to another much more difficult 4 wheel drive road.

A lake just below California Pass summit (iPhone) (A closer view of the lake seen in the previous photo)

An abandoned mine sluice along the California Pass Road (iPhone)

Clouds gathering over the aptly named Red Mountains, California Pass Road (iPhone)

We continued back to US 550 on Corkscrew 4 wheel drive, but I did not get any interesting photos along that route.

This marks the end of my July trip to Colorado.  The following photos are a few iPhone shots that I took on the route back home.

The Sportsmobile at Lake Meredith National Recreation Area, Texas (iPhone)

A panorama of a portion of Lake Meredith (iPhone)

A warning sign at a Texas Panhandle Rest Stop (iPhone)

 

 

 

 

 

Joshua Tree National Park

My oldest son and I spent a few days in Joshua Tree National Park in southern California the last week of March, 2018.  While exploring one of the less visited areas, we spotted a dead tree that we immediately knew presented numerous photo opportunities.  We returned to this tree on two evenings to photograph it, capture stars and star trails with the tree as fore ground.

My son referred to the tree as the “ghost tree”.  I thought it looked more like the “grim reaper tree”.

In addition to the star trails, numerous air plane paths are also apparent.