Due to unfavorable weather conditions, I did not get out early for morning photos on the third full day in the Badlands NP area. Instead, I drove through more of the park in the morning hours, scouting more potential shooting locations.
Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, AM, iPhone Photo 1Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, AM, iPhone Photo 2Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, AM, iPhone Photo 3Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, AM, iPhone Photo 4Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, AM, iPhone Photo 5Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, AM, iPhone Photo 6Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, AM, iPhone Photo 7Cloud Tracks, Badlands NP, September 17, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo
I checked out many locations along SD Route 240 this morning, shooting many iPhone photos, most of which were uninspiring. The few posted here are the ones I found most interesting and showing potential for golden hour photography.
As I backtracked out of the park, I spotted a couple of Bighorn sheep high up on a ridge. I stopped, put my big zoom lens on my camera and shot a few images.
Bighorns, Badlands NPBighorn blending into the background, Badlands NP
After my early morning sunrise session, I scouted other areas along SD Route 240 for potential sunset today and/or sunrise locations tomorrow morning. As typical, I used my iPhone for the scouting photos, so that I could move around more easily, unhindered by heavy camera gear.
Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 1
My first scouting stop was a viewing area designated as “Yellow Mounds Overlook”, where I climbed a steep slope to check out the views from a higher elevation, after scanning the area from the parking lot.
Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 2Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 3Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 4
I continued along SD 240, stopping to check out the views from other pullouts.
Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 5Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 6Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 7
At each location, I made a number of images, testing compositional variations. This post contains a few selected images from a few of those stops.
Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 8Badlands NP, September 16, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo 9
After arriving at the park, I drove along the main park roadway for a while to scout possible sunset photos today and sunrise for the next morning. Then I began to look for my planned camping area, driving a long way down a dusty, washboarded roadway that went to the camping area, which I had found via an online search for camping in the area of the park. Eventually, I decided that the time it was taking for me to get to my planned camping area was going to be a problem for travel back and forth for sunset and sunrise photography. Even though the distance might not be great, the road conditions required slow travel speed. So I detoured off that rough road and began to look for other possibilities.
I found an online reference to another campsite just off of South Dakota Route 240 between Walls and the park, so I set out to find that site. Before I found the site I was looking for, I again noted campers set up on higher elevation to the east of the roadway. I had seen those on my initial pass though this area, but I had not seen a way to get to the area where those campers were set up.
I began to pay closer attention to that side of Route 240 and I soon found an inconspicuous, grassy, dirt roadway heading into the grasslands. I took that trail, hoping it would take me to a camping area, soon coming to campers set up and/or leaving. I stopped to inquire about this area with one camper that was on the way out. He assured me that there were plenty of free campsite along this roadway, higher up on the hillside.
I continued on, finding many good campsites. I later found a second roadway into this area, just a short distance from the park entrance, with a sign designating this area as Buffalo Gap National Grasslands.
There are some campsites right on the edge of a sharp drop off into badlands that are outside of the main park area. I picked one of these that was level enough that no leveling of my vehicle was required.
A view from Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, South Dakota, September 15, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo
After having a late lunch in my vehicle, I walked around to scout the views from the camping area across the broad area below and to the west of the campground.
A view of an area adjacent to Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, South Dakota, September 15, 2022, PM, iPhone Photo
I found a few places where I thought I might use my 80-400mm lens to shoot down into the adjacent badlands, which were outside the main park area.
One of the problems with driving a camper vehicle, is losing a campsite in these first come first serve areas, if one leaves the campsite even for a short time. I did not want to lose this campsite and I had not scouted enough in the park to locate a good sunset shoot location and there was a storm brewing, so I decide to get by with shooting from the campsite area and get out early the next morning for sunrise photography.
My shots with the big lens are not great and are a bit flat, but here are a few for the record.
Semicircle, View from Buffalo Gap National Grasslands camping area.A wider angle view of the area around the semicircle in the upper rightDistant Cloud Shadows and Near Sunlight, View from Buffalo Gap National Grasslands camping area.Golden Hour and Shadows, View from Buffalo Gap National Grasslands camping area.
These photos may not be very impressive, but the geology shown in these is impressive. One can see the flat grassy areas that are eroding away revealing the layers of rock beneath the flat surfaces.
As I headed back into the heart of the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, I spotted a massive granite outcrop with large boulders strewn around on it. I stopped to investigate. My initial impression was that the slope up the slick rock granite was too steep to safely navigate. Yet, I decided to cautiously proceed.
Wichita Mountains Granite and Long Boulder, iPhone Scouting Photo
I went up a portion of the slope that was the easiest to climb. Looking down I saw a heart shaped rock on a pedestal that was not visible from below, since it was behind brushy growth at the edge of the roadway.
After some initial exploration along the lower, less steep slope, I back tracked and went through the brush to the portion of the slope where the heart shaped stone is located. The incline beyond was very steep and I had to consider how best to attack it. I decided that a switch back climb would be the safest approach and proceeded upward.
The contours in the massive granite seemed to be enticing me to come on to see what was above.
About this time, an official park vehicle came by on the roadway below. The driver yelled at me to warn me that I would fall. I waved an acknowledgement of the message. The vehicle continued on its way, as did I.
I think this could be a good place for sunrise photography and maybe I will get back here at another time; but now it is time to end this and find my way down,
I drove to the western portion of the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge to scout the Charon’s Garden Wilderness area. In route I stopped at a small reservoir, Post Oak Lake.
Post Oak Lake, iPhone Scouting Photo
Post Oak Lake is a small reservoir formed by a small dam across a tributary of Post Oak Creek.
There is a nearby military base and there were a couple of jet fighter aircrafts, practicing maneuvers, that periodically screamed overhead, breaking up the silence in this area.
Post Oak Lake from the dam, iPhone Scouting Photo
I walked across the small dam, shooting the shot above from the dam. I believe the dam is leaking. A small stream of water was emanating from one side of the dam a few feet below the top of the dam. That stream was not from the dam overflow or controlled flow. I photographed the leak area, but the image detail is insufficient to illustrate the leakage. The leak does not appear to be sufficient to indicate an eminent dam failure.
Post Oak Lake, iPhone Scouting Photo
From the lake area, I could see geological features in the distance that looked interesting and might be good subject matter for sunset photography.
I continued a short distance down the roadway, past Post Oak Lake, to the end of the road and the trailhead into Charon’s Garden Wilderness. It was a moderately hot afternoon and I wanted to travel lightly on this scouting expedition, so I did not take my heavy DSLR, but I did take a bottle of cold water, enough for a short hike in and out.
Blending In, Lizard in Charon’s Wilderness, iPhone Photo
I did not spot much wildlife in this area. Other than a few lizards scampering around, I saw one or two squirrels or chipmunks, a few birds and a jackrabbit.
The most interesting wildlife that I spotted is the Eastern Collared Lizard, the Oklahoma State Lizard. It is fairly large and colorful.
Protesting my presence, Mountain Boomer, Charon’s Wilderness, iPhone PhotoCan you see me now? Mountain Boomer, Charon’s Wilderness, iPhone Photo
I had to follow this one around to get close enough to shoot it with my iPhone. It hid beneath a rock overhang and peeked out just long enough for me to get the shot above.
Charon’s Garden Wilderness Trail, iPhone Photo
Those vertical looking rocks, ahead on the trail, were my primary interest. I continued hiking in that direction, looking for potential places for sunset photography.
I hiked leisurely for about a half an hour, stopping to shoot iPhone shots to document my progress. Most of those shots were of little interest and are not included here.
The trail is not always as apparent as that in the photo above. It crosses solid rock areas and goes through some intermittent wooded areas.
I soon came to Post Oak Creek and Treasure Lake. I eventually gave up my hike, after determining that the substantial creek would probably block my access to those interesting feature in the background. In any case, hiking in for sunset photography would require hiking out along a not always easy to follow route in the dark, so I ruled out this area for sunset photos today. I later learned from my campsite host, that the rangers did not like for hikers to be in this area in the dark, presumably due to the increased danger of night time hiking and the potential of becoming disoriented in darkness. I carry a GPS device that allows me to mark my route, still there are dangers of tripping and falling along portions of a trail at anytime and especially in the dark of night.
On my way to Mount Scott, I had passed a couple of old homes that I planned to try to shoot as I backtracked from Mount Scott. The first old home sat far back from the roadway and looked like an interesting photographic subject. I would have to walk to it to get shots. As I prepared to walk towards the run down old home, I noted a number of free roaming bison and long horn cattle in the vicinity, making approaching that house too risky. So I drove on to the next place.
Ferguson House
Well, this house does not look old, does it? It was built in 1927, but has been reconstructed. Follow the links for more information. The little rounded building behind the house covers a water storage tank. I attempted to get close up photos of the tank and its covering structure, but none of those photos were good enough to share.
The little house in the right background is a mystery. It is just an empty shell, built on a concrete foundation and does not look very old.
There is a covered pavilion on the property with posters giving information about the early history of this area.
I shot the house from numerous view points, but the one in this post is the best image.
Ferguson House Marker
This marker is near the front of the home lot.
Other than the historical significance of the early homesteaders in this area, I found little of real photographic interest here.
With my DSLR in hand, I began a more extensive exploration around the summit of Mount Scott.
Branching Artist
Since I was passing this interesting tree again, I had to shoot it with my DSLR, trying to get variations on my initial iPhone scouting photos.
Reaching LimbsRolling HillsGranite AlleyMade in the ShadeForced Shade
I know these three photos are similar, but this unique tree shading the granite rock, inspired a number of thoughts and offered numerous compositional variations. I couldn’t decide which image I liked best, so here are several of my favorites.
Accommodating TreeDon’t do this.
Please do not deface nature’s beauty to express your primitive desires. There are many other ways to express your admiration of someone that will be much more meaningful, appreciated and will not be an assault upon others’ enjoyment of our natural environment.
The Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge campground hosts recommended Mount Scott as a place for sunset photography and so did the rangers in the visitor center, so I drove up the scenic drive to check out the views.
The steep drive up Mount Scott passed by large boulder fields and scenic views across the Oklahoma landscape. I stopped at a number of pull outs to check out the local views.
View From the slope of Mount Scott, iPhone Scouting PhotoLichen on Mount Scott Granite, iPhone Scouting Photo
Many of the granite boulders here are covered with yellow and grey lichen, forming interesting patterns on the rock faces.
Mount Scott Granite, iPhone Scouting Photo
There are massive granite rock faces along the route to the top of Mount Scott.
Yellow Wildflowers and Yellow Lichen, Mount Scott Granite, iPhone Scouting PhotoShoe Rock, Mount Scott Granite, iPhone Scouting Photo
I’ve labeled this photo “Shoe Rock”, since I can see a shoe shape in the rock on the bottom left.
Blocky Rocks and Sky, Mount Scott Granite, iPhone Scouting Photo
When I reached the parking lot on the top of Mount Scott, I initially walked around the perimeter of the lot, looking out over the views. I was discouraged to see much litter in the area around the parking lot. I picked up a few plastic bags and put them into my trash. I did not see any trash receptacles in the area. When I am shooting photographs in such public areas, I often have to remove trash from the scene, prior to shooting.
The Duck, Mt. Scott Tree Remnant, iPhone Scouting PhotoView from Mt. Scott, iPhone Scouting Photo
From the parking lot, I worked my way down and into the area just below the parking area.
Mt. Scott Tree, iPhone Scouting Photo
This sprawling tree offered a number of photographic opportunities.
Artistic Sprawl, Mt. Scott Tree, iPhone Scouting PhotoPom Pom Tree, Mt. Scott Tree, iPhone Scouting Photo
After this brief scouting of the area, I decided that I did not like all of the human infrastructure that would be visible in wide angle images across this area. I decided not to return here, during this short visit; but I still wanted to explore more, in case I changed my mind or came back another time. I retrieved my DSLR with 24-70mm lens from my vehicle and began a more extensive exploration.
With a final destination of Badlands National Park, South Dakota, I needed stops in route to break up the long road trip. I searched the maps of the states I would travel through to get to the Badlands for possibilities. The first place that I noted in Oklahoma was the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, which is only a few hours drive from my home base. I searched online for information about the refuge and looked for photos taken in the refuge. The results of that research convinced me that I should spend a couple of nights in the refuge RV campground.
Prior to this visit, I had no idea that such a place was so close by and that there were actually old granite mountains in the southwestern part of Oklahoma. Since I was traveling just after the busy summer season, there were plenty of RV sites from which to choose. After consulting the online campground map, I chose a site that looked like it was conveniently located near the restroom facility and near hiking trails from the campground.
It turned out that my campsite was just across a campground road from the campground hosts. I stopped by to chat with the hosts, let them know that I had arrived, get updates on the campground rules and conditions and get their advice on locations for sunset and sunrise photography.
I find that most non-photographers have completely different concepts about sunset/sunrise photography than do photographers. Still it is good to get local knowledge, especially for first visits to a location. After checking out the locations on the refuge map of the hosts’ suggestions, I decided that I should check out the area around the campground first and scout the suggested areas the following day.
I walked around the campground to get my bearings, find the trails originating in the campground and check out those trails. The refuge map is sketchy. Others that I encountered during my exploration of the large refuge area, expressed the same frustration with the refuge map.
Hole In One, Wildflowers, iPhone Photo
There were pretty wildflowers growing in the campground area.
Spider Like Wildflowers, iPhone Photo
After some effort and hiking much farther around the campground, than should have been necessary, I found the trail that I wanted to explore. The trailhead was visible from my campsite, but the trailhead was not marked! There were also branches along the trail, some branches clearly traveled trails, some branches not so clearly used and it was not even clear that those branches were actually trails and there were no markings along the trails.
It was not an area that one could get lost in, during daylight at least, so I did not mind exploring and I eventually found my way to my chosen destination.
One branch of the trail went around nearby Quanah Parker Lake. After hiking portions of that trail, I could see no good views for sunset photography, so I chose a branch that went away from the lake. That branch took me through woods to the other side of the lake, which looked more promising for photography.
Quanah Parker Lake, iPhone Scouting Photo
There were plentiful Prickly Pear Cacti in this area.
Prickly Pear Spikes, iPhone PhotoLooking towards Little Baldy, iPhone Scouting Photo
In addition to checking out the lake, I was interested in the map feature referred to as Little Baldy. I was not really sure what to expect of Little Baldy nor where exactly it was, given the sketchy map, but I figured I would know it when I saw it.
On the way to Little Baldy, iPhone Scouting Photo
There were many granite rocks and boulders scattered around, so I experimented with using those as foreground objects and tried to visualize how the scenes would look at sunset and sunrise.
Little Baldy, iPhone Scouting Photo
When I spotted Little Baldy, I explored around and up its slope, trying to pick vantage points from which to shoot at sunset today and for sunrise the following morning.
Little Baldy, iPhone Scouting PhotoView from Little Baldy, iPhone Scouting Photo
Shooting with the sun low in the sky, one’s shadow often becomes a problem to deal with. Sometimes a desired composition just can’t be obtained without one’s shadow and compositional adjustments have to be made.
View from Little Baldy, iPhone Scouting Photo
Now that I know where I want to be at sunset, I just have to figure out the timing for departing my campsite and getting into place prior to sunset. I’ve now got a good idea of the most direct path from my campsite to my intended location, so all I have to do is time the hike. Doing so as I returned to my campsite, it turned out that the hike is only about 10-15 minutes. That is really convenient and means that I can return to camp after sunset shooting without hiking in the dark and I can even hike back for sunrise photos and not have to hike in morning darkness, either.
