Toadstool Geologic Area, Nebraska – Part 1

After leaving the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, my next primary destination was Toadstool Geologic Area in Nebraska.  Since the drive between these two destinations was long, I had plans to break up that drive with a couple of overnight stops along the way.

I stopped in Kansas at Lake Scott State Park the first night.  The campground is adjacent to a lake with hills surrounding it, which I had hoped would be scenic enough for a few good photographs.  I was disappointed.  The campground was ok, but nothing special.  The park is old, in need of updating, the lake was not scenic and some facilities, such as docks, were in great disrepair.  Long grass and weeds along part of the lake had been recently cut, but the clippings were littering the grounds and walkways.  It did not appear that the caretakers were concerned with the general appearance of the park.

My second planned overnight was a dispersed and free camping area at Clear Creek State Wildlife Management Area along the North Platte River in Nebraska.  When I checked the weather report for that area there were warning of severe thunderstorms and I knew from research into this site that rain might render the dirt roads into the area impassable.  I decided it best to bypass that site and make a long drive on to Toadstool Geologic area.

There are only six first come, first serve campsites at Toadstool.  I wanted to arrive early enough in the day that there might still be campsites available.  This is the main reason that I had not initially planned to drive directly from Lake Scott, Kansas to Toadstool.  If I arrived late in the day and the campsites were taken, I would have to backtrack to other possible sites, with no guarantee of finding a place to stay nearby.

The final stretch of roadway into Toadstool is a 16 mile gravel roadway.  That roadway was rough and extremely washboarded, when I drove in, requiring slow driving.

Luckily, when I arrived at the campsite, there were at least 4 sites available.  I had planned to stay two nights here, but it was hotter than usual here with daytime temperatures in the nineties.  Nighttime temperatures drop into the upper fifties, making for comfortable sleeping.  There are no water or electric hookups here.  I had plenty of water, but electric would have been good to have with such hot daytime temperatures.

I decided that having to hang out during the heat of the day would not be pleasant, so I only registered for one night.  If, after exploring the area, I decided another day would be beneficial, I could always extend my stay.

After registering at the campsite kiosk, I finished setting up my van for the overnight stay, raising the penthouse and opening all the vents, opening the side and back doors to allow air to circulate through to help reduce the inside temperature.

In the meantime, others arrived and soon all the sites were taken.  It was fortunate that I did not arrive any later this afternoon.

I had plenty of time prior to sunset, so I hiked into the area around the campsite to scout locations for photography.  I found a few possible location in the hillsides to the south, but none of those really appealed to me.  Eventually, coming back down into the valley below the hillsides to the west of the campground, I found interesting features and decided this was the best place to return for sunset and maybe even sunrise.

King of the Hill

When I returned to the area I had chosen for sunset photography there were a few young people and a photographer, shooting what I think were engagement photos, that I had to work around.  Eventually, that group left and I had the place to myself.

Supporter or Oppressor
Supporting Cast

I shot a number of images of the rock features with variation on the compositions and the clouds moving overhead.

Mystical
Homage
Rock Tilt
Rocky Sky
Geometric

To be continued,

Ken

 

Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge – Granite Outcrop and Boulders

As I headed back into the heart of the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, I spotted a massive granite outcrop with large boulders strewn around on it.  I stopped to investigate.  My initial impression was that the slope up the slick rock granite was too steep to safely navigate.  Yet, I decided to cautiously proceed.

Wichita Mountains Granite and Long Boulder, iPhone Scouting Photo

I went up a portion of the slope that was the easiest to climb.  Looking down I saw a heart shaped rock on a pedestal that was not visible from below, since it was behind brushy growth at the edge of the roadway.

Heart of Granite, iPhone Scouting Photo
Long Boulder, iPhone Scouting Photo
Nestled, iPhone Scouting Photo

 

Granite Outcrop and Boulders, IPhone Scouting Photo
Boulder Friends, iPhone Scouting Photo

After some initial exploration along the lower, less steep slope, I back tracked and went through the brush to the portion of the slope where the heart shaped stone is located.  The incline beyond was very steep and I had to consider how best to attack it.  I decided that a switch back climb would be the safest approach and proceeded upward.

Heart of Granite, iPhone Scouting Photo
Pile Up, iPhone Scouting Photo
Seductive, iPhone Scouting Photo

The contours in the massive granite seemed to be enticing me to come on to see what was above.

About this time, an official park vehicle came by on the roadway below.  The driver yelled at me to warn me that I would fall.  I waved an acknowledgement of the message.  The vehicle continued on its way, as did I.

Wedged,  iPhone Scouting Photo
The Gap, iPhone Scouting Photo

I had to walk through a gap between two giant boulders to what lay beyond.

Giant Dinosaur Head Shaped Boulder, iPhone Scouting Photo
Wichita Mountains Granite, iPhone Scouting Photo
Smooth Contours and Rugged Peak, iPhone Scouting Photo
Rock of Ages,  iPhone Scouting Photo
Tree Hosting Boulder, iPhone Scouting Photo
Rock Garden, iPhone Scouting Photo
The Road Below, iPhone Scouting Photo
Arch Rock, iPhone Scouting Photo
Boulder Alley, iPhone Scouting Photo

I think this could be a good place for sunrise photography and maybe I will get back here at another time; but now it is time to end this and find my way down,

Ken

 

Wichita Mountains, Oklahoma – Mount Scott Scouting Photography, Part 1

The Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge campground hosts recommended Mount Scott as a place for sunset photography and so did the rangers in the visitor center, so I drove up the scenic drive to check out the views.

The steep drive up Mount Scott passed by large boulder fields and scenic views across the Oklahoma landscape.  I stopped at a number of pull outs to check out the local views.

View From the slope of Mount Scott, iPhone Scouting Photo
Lichen on Mount Scott Granite, iPhone Scouting Photo

Many of the granite boulders here are covered with yellow and grey lichen, forming interesting patterns on the rock faces.

Mount Scott Granite, iPhone Scouting Photo

There are massive granite rock faces along the route to the top of Mount Scott.

Yellow Wildflowers and Yellow Lichen, Mount Scott Granite, iPhone Scouting Photo
Shoe Rock, Mount Scott Granite, iPhone Scouting Photo

I’ve labeled this photo “Shoe Rock”, since I can see a shoe shape in the rock on the bottom left.

Blocky Rocks and Sky, Mount Scott Granite, iPhone Scouting Photo

When I reached the parking lot on the top of Mount Scott, I initially walked around the perimeter of the lot, looking out over the views.  I was discouraged to see much litter in the area around the parking lot.  I picked up a few plastic bags and put them into my trash.  I did not see any trash receptacles in the area.  When I am shooting photographs in such public areas, I often have to remove trash from the scene, prior to shooting.

The Duck, Mt. Scott Tree Remnant, iPhone Scouting Photo
View from Mt. Scott, iPhone Scouting Photo

From the parking lot, I worked my way down and into the area just below the parking area.

Mt. Scott Tree, iPhone Scouting Photo

This sprawling tree offered a number of photographic opportunities.

Artistic Sprawl, Mt. Scott Tree, iPhone Scouting Photo
Pom Pom Tree, Mt. Scott Tree, iPhone Scouting Photo

After this brief scouting of the area, I decided that I did not like all of the human infrastructure that would be visible in wide angle images across this area.  I decided not to return here, during this short visit; but I still wanted to explore more, in case I changed my mind or came back another time.  I retrieved my DSLR with 24-70mm lens from my vehicle and began a more extensive exploration.

Until next time,

Ken

 

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah, March 2022, Part 22 – Cathedral Valley Exploration

Layers of Mystery, iPhone Photo

My readers have already seen many photos of some of the fantastic, massive geological features in the Cathedral Valley portion of Capitol Reef National Park.  The long loop road through this area passes many such features.  We did not have time to explore around all of these and certainly not time to visit each area for golden hour sunrise or sunset photography.

But we did stop and walk around at some of the more easily accessible areas near the roadway.  Often, I would use my iPhone camera to capture the scenes, rather than lugging around a heavy DSLR and lens.

Magic Seeker, iPhone Photo
Desert Vortex – Sky and Earth, iPhone Photo
Rock Power, iPhone Photo
Commander/Tower of Power, iPhone Photo
Desert Sentinels/Commander and Sidekick, iPhone Photo
Cathedral Valley Scene, iPhone Photo
Sky Partitioner, iPhone Photo
Desert Sun, iPhone Photo
Serpent Sky, iPhone Photo
Halo, iPhone Photo

Until next time,

Ken

 

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah, March 2022, Part 20 – Arches

Continued from Part 19:

Near the double arch along the 4 wheel drive to the Strike Valley Overlook and Upper Muley Twist Canyon Trailhead is another arch.

Double Arch, One Almost Hidden

A quick glance from the roadway at this feature and one might think this is a single arch.  Getting a closer look, after hiking up a sandy bank, reveals a double arch.

Double Arch

These second and third images helps reveal the second arch, but it is still not completely clear.

Double Arch
Double Arch

This view point now clearly reveals two arches.

Triple Arch

But wait!  Moving around a bit, clearly shows a third small arch!  Not only that, but a close inspection of the large, front arch and some imagination reveals what appear to be two animals engaged in a fight.  Focus on the center portion of this arch and one can imagine the face and mouth of a dog or similar creature biting down on the adjacent rock, which resembles some other creature with legs formed by the second arch and a portion of the rock on the far right.

Triple Arch

That’s it for now,

Ken.

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah, March 2022, Part 19 – Arches

On the return from Upper Muley Twist Canyon trailhead towards the Burr Trail Road, we stopped at arches we had spotted along the 4 wheel drive road to the trailhead.  There are no safe ways to get very close to these arches, but one can hike up sandy banks to find a number of vantage points from which to shoot from below the arches.

Double Arch

This is a double arch, which may not be readily apparent at first glance.

Double Arch

Small portions of blue sky are visible below the two back to back arches in the photo above.

Front arch in Double Arch
Double Arch
Front arch in Double Arch

Nearby is a triple arch, which will be the subject of the next post.

Ken

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah, March 2022, Part 18 – Upper Muley Twist Canyon

Continued from Part 17:

Hiking back towards the trailhead from our visit to Saddle Arch, we stopped at the first arch.  There is no apparent way to get close to this arch.  We each picked our separate ways up the sandy bank near the canyon creek bed and over slick rock trying to get good vantage points from which to shoot the arch.  My son, with much difficulty and slightly injuring an ankle, found a way to get beneath the arch.  He advised me not to try advancing to his vantage point.  I expect I could have, but not wanting to chance an injury, I took his advice, settling for shooting from a distance at several vantage points with my 24 to 70mm lens.

First Upper Muley Twist Arch

The zoom lens makes it look like I’m much closer to this arch than I actually am.

First Upper Muley Twist Arch
First Upper Muley Twist Arch

One of my Flickr contacts tells me this arch is labeled “Muley” arch in some hiking guides, although I do not recall the map showing a name for this one.

First Upper Muley Twist Arch

The best I could do from my vantage points is to try to show the setting of the arch.  If these photos make it look like it would be easy to navigate to the area below and/or behind the arch, that is deceptive.  The area around this arch is strewn with boulders and covered with much brushy growth.

First Upper Muley Twist Arch
First Upper Muley Twist Arch

That’s it for this shoot.  There are arches at two locations along the road to the trailhead.  We will stop on the way back to the Burr Trail Road to shoot those arches.

Ken

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah, March 2022, Part 17 – Upper Muley Twist Canyon

Upper Muley Twist Canyon in Capitol Reef National Park is accessed via a three mile four wheel drive road from the Burr Trail Road west of the the point where that road climbs out of Strike Valley.  A high clearance vehicle is recommended for this roadway, as it is rugged with some sizable rocks that one must navigate over.  However, we saw one or two Subaru Outbacks, that are capable vehicles, at the trailhead.  So experienced drivers might be able to safely navigate this road with such vehicles; but definitely, ordinary, low clearance vehicles should not attempt this roadway.  The road is narrow in portions with room for only one vehicle.

We were on this roadway several times during this visit to Capitol Reef National Park.  The trailheads for both the Strike Valley Overlook and Upper Muley Twist Canyon begin at the parking area, which is large enough to accommodate at least 4 vehicles.

The full loop hike of the canyon is a nine mile round trip.  The canyon hike was secondary to our purpose for being here, so we never tried to do the full hike.  According to the map of the canyon, there are 4 arches in the canyon.  The first arch is about 1 mile from the trailhead.  We hiked to the first arch, prior to going to the Strike Valley Overlook for late day photography.  We did not have time to go any further on that visit here and still get to the Strike Valley Overlook.

We returned here to hike further into the canyon one day prior to a sunset shoot at a nearby location and again we did not have time for the full hike, so we settled for shooting at the first and second arches along the hiking route.

Hole Rock

The canyon wall has interesting features, such as the holes eroded into the solid rock walls.  There were many of these similar to the one in the photo above.

Against the Wall

The canyon walls are steep and sheer rock along portions of the route with stains from water runoff.  This green tree against the colorful canyon wall made an interesting photographic subject.

Saddle Arch, Upper Muley Twist Canyon

We hiked past the first arch to the second one that is know as Saddle Arch.  This arch is easily visible from the canyon floor, as one rounds a bend in the canyon.  It is high up on the canyon wall, requiring a steep climb up a sandy slope to get nearest to it.

I made a number of images from various vantage points.  The time of day was not the best for great lighting, but it was the only time we would be here.  The colorful sandstone layers add interest to the photos and geologists will enjoy viewing and studying such exposed features.

Saddle Arch, Upper Muley Twist Canyon
Saddle Arch, Upper Muley Twist Canyon
Saddle Arch, Upper Muley Twist Canyon

I’ve included some of the neighboring canyon wall to give a contextual feeling for the setting.

Saddle Arch, Upper Muley Twist Canyon
Saddle Arch, Upper Muley Twist Canyon
Saddle Arch, Upper Muley Twist Canyon
Saddle Arch, Upper Muley Twist Canyon

I suppose a well prepared hiker/rock climber could get to the area directly beneath and behind the arch; but that would be a dangerous undertaking for a most hikers.

On the hike out we stopped by the first arch to try to get closer photos.  More on that in the next post.

Ken

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah, March 2022, Part 10 – Cathedral Valley

I will continue to test my readers patience with even more photos from Capitol Reef National Park’s Cathedral Valley.

The photographs in this post are all taken around the features called “Temple of the Sun” and “Temple of the Moon”.

Monoliths, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Monoliths, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Temple of the Sun (in right background), Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Downcast
Temple of the Moon, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Temple of the Sun framed by smaller rocks, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Temple of the Moon, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Temple of the Moon, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Temple of the Moon, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Temple of the Sun, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Temple of the Sun, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Temple of the Sun, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Temple of the Sun, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Temple of the Moon, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Temple of the Moon, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah

These photos were all taken late in the afternoon.  The high ridge to the west of these features blocked much of the golden hour light, so essentially all of the foreground objects were already in shadows by the time the best golden hour light illuminated the large monoliths.

Temple of the Moon, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Temple of the Moon, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah
Temples of the Sun and Moon, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef National Park, Utah

Until next time,

Ken

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah, March 2022, Part 9 – Cathedral Valley

Even more Cathedral Valley photographs,

Pyramid

This is not really a pyramid shape, but it looks that way from this point of view.

Emerging

Sometime in the distant future there will be more monoliths here.

Big Brother
Three Rocks
Monolith Production Line
4 Rocks

Until next time,

Ken