A continuation of images made during a hike in Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada in March of 2023.
Through an Arch, iPhone Photo
There were a few arches in the canyon walls bordering this hiking trail. Small arches are plentiful in this area.
End of the Trail, iPhone Photo
This trail ends at a drop off into a narrow chasm, which at this time of the year contained a pool of water.
Arch, iPhone Photo
Another small arch atop a rock outcrop.
Arch, iPhone Photo
Another small, but still sizable arch along the trail.
Rock Eye, iPhone Photo
Light bouncing around inside some of the smaller arches and holes in the rocks creates interesting color, bringing out the patterns in the rock. This one looks like an eye in a rugged face.
There are many arches of various sizes all through out Valley of Fire State Park and in this area, in general, where the sandstone has been eroded away over long time intervals of exposure to wind, rain, freezing and thawing. The arches are not on the size of those found in Utah’s Arches National Park, but seemingly more numerous.
Sunlight reflects around inside the arches, creating wonderful lighting on the rock surface.
Arch, iPhone Photo
The arches in this post are found along a short hiking trail and can be spotted by looking up into the canyon walls, which can be spectacular, too.
There is an open area along this trail with many nice cholla cacti. I had to refrain from trying to photograph each one, as I’ve always found these enticing.
We stopped short of completing this hike today, since we wanted to get to an area that we had chosen for sunset photos.
As I headed back into the heart of the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, I spotted a massive granite outcrop with large boulders strewn around on it. I stopped to investigate. My initial impression was that the slope up the slick rock granite was too steep to safely navigate. Yet, I decided to cautiously proceed.
Wichita Mountains Granite and Long Boulder, iPhone Scouting Photo
I went up a portion of the slope that was the easiest to climb. Looking down I saw a heart shaped rock on a pedestal that was not visible from below, since it was behind brushy growth at the edge of the roadway.
After some initial exploration along the lower, less steep slope, I back tracked and went through the brush to the portion of the slope where the heart shaped stone is located. The incline beyond was very steep and I had to consider how best to attack it. I decided that a switch back climb would be the safest approach and proceeded upward.
The contours in the massive granite seemed to be enticing me to come on to see what was above.
About this time, an official park vehicle came by on the roadway below. The driver yelled at me to warn me that I would fall. I waved an acknowledgement of the message. The vehicle continued on its way, as did I.
I think this could be a good place for sunrise photography and maybe I will get back here at another time; but now it is time to end this and find my way down,
I drove to the western portion of the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge to scout the Charon’s Garden Wilderness area. In route I stopped at a small reservoir, Post Oak Lake.
Post Oak Lake, iPhone Scouting Photo
Post Oak Lake is a small reservoir formed by a small dam across a tributary of Post Oak Creek.
There is a nearby military base and there were a couple of jet fighter aircrafts, practicing maneuvers, that periodically screamed overhead, breaking up the silence in this area.
Post Oak Lake from the dam, iPhone Scouting Photo
I walked across the small dam, shooting the shot above from the dam. I believe the dam is leaking. A small stream of water was emanating from one side of the dam a few feet below the top of the dam. That stream was not from the dam overflow or controlled flow. I photographed the leak area, but the image detail is insufficient to illustrate the leakage. The leak does not appear to be sufficient to indicate an eminent dam failure.
Post Oak Lake, iPhone Scouting Photo
From the lake area, I could see geological features in the distance that looked interesting and might be good subject matter for sunset photography.
I continued a short distance down the roadway, past Post Oak Lake, to the end of the road and the trailhead into Charon’s Garden Wilderness. It was a moderately hot afternoon and I wanted to travel lightly on this scouting expedition, so I did not take my heavy DSLR, but I did take a bottle of cold water, enough for a short hike in and out.
Blending In, Lizard in Charon’s Wilderness, iPhone Photo
I did not spot much wildlife in this area. Other than a few lizards scampering around, I saw one or two squirrels or chipmunks, a few birds and a jackrabbit.
The most interesting wildlife that I spotted is the Eastern Collared Lizard, the Oklahoma State Lizard. It is fairly large and colorful.
Protesting my presence, Mountain Boomer, Charon’s Wilderness, iPhone PhotoCan you see me now? Mountain Boomer, Charon’s Wilderness, iPhone Photo
I had to follow this one around to get close enough to shoot it with my iPhone. It hid beneath a rock overhang and peeked out just long enough for me to get the shot above.
Charon’s Garden Wilderness Trail, iPhone Photo
Those vertical looking rocks, ahead on the trail, were my primary interest. I continued hiking in that direction, looking for potential places for sunset photography.
I hiked leisurely for about a half an hour, stopping to shoot iPhone shots to document my progress. Most of those shots were of little interest and are not included here.
The trail is not always as apparent as that in the photo above. It crosses solid rock areas and goes through some intermittent wooded areas.
I soon came to Post Oak Creek and Treasure Lake. I eventually gave up my hike, after determining that the substantial creek would probably block my access to those interesting feature in the background. In any case, hiking in for sunset photography would require hiking out along a not always easy to follow route in the dark, so I ruled out this area for sunset photos today. I later learned from my campsite host, that the rangers did not like for hikers to be in this area in the dark, presumably due to the increased danger of night time hiking and the potential of becoming disoriented in darkness. I carry a GPS device that allows me to mark my route, still there are dangers of tripping and falling along portions of a trail at anytime and especially in the dark of night.
With a final destination of Badlands National Park, South Dakota, I needed stops in route to break up the long road trip. I searched the maps of the states I would travel through to get to the Badlands for possibilities. The first place that I noted in Oklahoma was the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, which is only a few hours drive from my home base. I searched online for information about the refuge and looked for photos taken in the refuge. The results of that research convinced me that I should spend a couple of nights in the refuge RV campground.
Prior to this visit, I had no idea that such a place was so close by and that there were actually old granite mountains in the southwestern part of Oklahoma. Since I was traveling just after the busy summer season, there were plenty of RV sites from which to choose. After consulting the online campground map, I chose a site that looked like it was conveniently located near the restroom facility and near hiking trails from the campground.
It turned out that my campsite was just across a campground road from the campground hosts. I stopped by to chat with the hosts, let them know that I had arrived, get updates on the campground rules and conditions and get their advice on locations for sunset and sunrise photography.
I find that most non-photographers have completely different concepts about sunset/sunrise photography than do photographers. Still it is good to get local knowledge, especially for first visits to a location. After checking out the locations on the refuge map of the hosts’ suggestions, I decided that I should check out the area around the campground first and scout the suggested areas the following day.
I walked around the campground to get my bearings, find the trails originating in the campground and check out those trails. The refuge map is sketchy. Others that I encountered during my exploration of the large refuge area, expressed the same frustration with the refuge map.
Hole In One, Wildflowers, iPhone Photo
There were pretty wildflowers growing in the campground area.
Spider Like Wildflowers, iPhone Photo
After some effort and hiking much farther around the campground, than should have been necessary, I found the trail that I wanted to explore. The trailhead was visible from my campsite, but the trailhead was not marked! There were also branches along the trail, some branches clearly traveled trails, some branches not so clearly used and it was not even clear that those branches were actually trails and there were no markings along the trails.
It was not an area that one could get lost in, during daylight at least, so I did not mind exploring and I eventually found my way to my chosen destination.
One branch of the trail went around nearby Quanah Parker Lake. After hiking portions of that trail, I could see no good views for sunset photography, so I chose a branch that went away from the lake. That branch took me through woods to the other side of the lake, which looked more promising for photography.
Quanah Parker Lake, iPhone Scouting Photo
There were plentiful Prickly Pear Cacti in this area.
Prickly Pear Spikes, iPhone PhotoLooking towards Little Baldy, iPhone Scouting Photo
In addition to checking out the lake, I was interested in the map feature referred to as Little Baldy. I was not really sure what to expect of Little Baldy nor where exactly it was, given the sketchy map, but I figured I would know it when I saw it.
On the way to Little Baldy, iPhone Scouting Photo
There were many granite rocks and boulders scattered around, so I experimented with using those as foreground objects and tried to visualize how the scenes would look at sunset and sunrise.
Little Baldy, iPhone Scouting Photo
When I spotted Little Baldy, I explored around and up its slope, trying to pick vantage points from which to shoot at sunset today and for sunrise the following morning.
Little Baldy, iPhone Scouting PhotoView from Little Baldy, iPhone Scouting Photo
Shooting with the sun low in the sky, one’s shadow often becomes a problem to deal with. Sometimes a desired composition just can’t be obtained without one’s shadow and compositional adjustments have to be made.
View from Little Baldy, iPhone Scouting Photo
Now that I know where I want to be at sunset, I just have to figure out the timing for departing my campsite and getting into place prior to sunset. I’ve now got a good idea of the most direct path from my campsite to my intended location, so all I have to do is time the hike. Doing so as I returned to my campsite, it turned out that the hike is only about 10-15 minutes. That is really convenient and means that I can return to camp after sunset shooting without hiking in the dark and I can even hike back for sunrise photos and not have to hike in morning darkness, either.
As a side trip from Capitol Reef National Park, we decided to hike to Upper Calf Creek Falls in the Escalante National Monument. The trailhead to this waterfall is just off of Utah Route 12 near Boulder. We traveled this route numerous times going to and from Torrey and the southern portion of Capitol Reef National Park.
The trail to the falls is only about a mile one way, but it is very steep over slick rock for the first portion, before becoming moderately level, then moderately steep just before the base of the falls. It is so steep that not only is coming back up the trail strenuous, but going down the trail takes some effort to avoid slipping and falling. There were a few places on the trail that required big steps down and up.
The information we found for the trail says the grade is 14% at the top and my son’s trail app showed as much as 20+% grade over some portions. Anyone reasonable fit can do this trail, but care is advised.
We had planned to make the round trip to the falls in about an hour. When we signed the trailhead register, we noted that the two previous hikers had taken hours on the trail, which gave us pause to consider whether much of that time was due to the strenuous nature of the trail.
Anyway, we proceeded cautiously down the trail. I knew the trip out would require me to stop to take periodic breathers, but I had no doubt that I could safely navigate down and back.
Due to the steepness and strenuous nature of the trail, I elected not to carry the weight of my heavy DSLR and lens. So the few photos in this post are via my iPhone.
Upper Calf Creek Falls and Pool, iPhone PhotoUpper Calf Creek Falls, iPhone PhotoUpper Calf Creek Falls, iPhone Pano
We took time at the base of the falls for photography, snacking and hydrating, before heading back to the trailhead. Our round trip time was 90 minutes, 1.5 times as long as we had anticipated. The additional 30 minutes was mostly due to the strenuous nature of the trail both going down and coming out.
We had done the trail to the Lower Calf Creek falls years ago. That trail is three times as long, but mostly on flat, sandy ground along the creek bed.
Hiking back towards the trailhead from our visit to Saddle Arch, we stopped at the first arch. There is no apparent way to get close to this arch. We each picked our separate ways up the sandy bank near the canyon creek bed and over slick rock trying to get good vantage points from which to shoot the arch. My son, with much difficulty and slightly injuring an ankle, found a way to get beneath the arch. He advised me not to try advancing to his vantage point. I expect I could have, but not wanting to chance an injury, I took his advice, settling for shooting from a distance at several vantage points with my 24 to 70mm lens.
First Upper Muley Twist Arch
The zoom lens makes it look like I’m much closer to this arch than I actually am.
First Upper Muley Twist ArchFirst Upper Muley Twist Arch
One of my Flickr contacts tells me this arch is labeled “Muley” arch in some hiking guides, although I do not recall the map showing a name for this one.
First Upper Muley Twist Arch
The best I could do from my vantage points is to try to show the setting of the arch. If these photos make it look like it would be easy to navigate to the area below and/or behind the arch, that is deceptive. The area around this arch is strewn with boulders and covered with much brushy growth.
First Upper Muley Twist ArchFirst Upper Muley Twist Arch
That’s it for this shoot. There are arches at two locations along the road to the trailhead. We will stop on the way back to the Burr Trail Road to shoot those arches.
Upper Muley Twist Canyon in Capitol Reef National Park is accessed via a three mile four wheel drive road from the Burr Trail Road west of the the point where that road climbs out of Strike Valley. A high clearance vehicle is recommended for this roadway, as it is rugged with some sizable rocks that one must navigate over. However, we saw one or two Subaru Outbacks, that are capable vehicles, at the trailhead. So experienced drivers might be able to safely navigate this road with such vehicles; but definitely, ordinary, low clearance vehicles should not attempt this roadway. The road is narrow in portions with room for only one vehicle.
We were on this roadway several times during this visit to Capitol Reef National Park. The trailheads for both the Strike Valley Overlook and Upper Muley Twist Canyon begin at the parking area, which is large enough to accommodate at least 4 vehicles.
The full loop hike of the canyon is a nine mile round trip. The canyon hike was secondary to our purpose for being here, so we never tried to do the full hike. According to the map of the canyon, there are 4 arches in the canyon. The first arch is about 1 mile from the trailhead. We hiked to the first arch, prior to going to the Strike Valley Overlook for late day photography. We did not have time to go any further on that visit here and still get to the Strike Valley Overlook.
We returned here to hike further into the canyon one day prior to a sunset shoot at a nearby location and again we did not have time for the full hike, so we settled for shooting at the first and second arches along the hiking route.
Hole Rock
The canyon wall has interesting features, such as the holes eroded into the solid rock walls. There were many of these similar to the one in the photo above.
Against the Wall
The canyon walls are steep and sheer rock along portions of the route with stains from water runoff. This green tree against the colorful canyon wall made an interesting photographic subject.
Saddle Arch, Upper Muley Twist Canyon
We hiked past the first arch to the second one that is know as Saddle Arch. This arch is easily visible from the canyon floor, as one rounds a bend in the canyon. It is high up on the canyon wall, requiring a steep climb up a sandy slope to get nearest to it.
I made a number of images from various vantage points. The time of day was not the best for great lighting, but it was the only time we would be here. The colorful sandstone layers add interest to the photos and geologists will enjoy viewing and studying such exposed features.
I suppose a well prepared hiker/rock climber could get to the area directly beneath and behind the arch; but that would be a dangerous undertaking for a most hikers.
On the hike out we stopped by the first arch to try to get closer photos. More on that in the next post.
The trail head for Upper Muley Twist Canyon and the Strike Valley Overlook both begin at the end of a three mile, rugged, high clearance, 4 wheel drive road.
There are at least four arches in Upper Muley Twist Canyon in the southern portion of Capitol Reef. The full loop hike of this canyon is a nine mile round trip. Today, our primary destination was the Strike Valley Overlook, which we had scouted earlier in our visit. We had just enough time before sunset to hike to the first arch, which is about a mile from the trailhead.
The first arch is easily missed. It is high up on the canyon wall, does not stand out sharply from the surroundings, and it is obscured by rocks and vegetation along the stream bed. We spotted the arch, though it was not easily accessible and we had no time today to try to find a route to a good vantage point for getting the best photos. The shot above is taken from a sandy bank surrounded by trees and brush just above the stream bed. We resolved to save any more exploration in this canyon for another day and hiked back towards the trailhead and the Strike Valley Overlook trail.
Strike Valley Overlook and Waterpocket FoldStrike Valley Overlook and Waterpocket FoldStrike Valley Overlook and Waterpocket Fold
There are high rock outcrops to the west of this overlook area, so the late day shadows encroach rapidly, putting much of the area and the valley in shadow well before the best of golden hour.
Strike Valley Overlook and Waterpocket FoldStrike Valley Overlook and Waterpocket Fold
This overlook area sits atop the geological feature called the Waterpocket Fold, which runs for miles in the park.
Strike Valley Overlook and Waterpocket FoldLinear Features on the Waterpocket Fold
This natural, linear, geological feature looks like a shrub lined walkway.
A Very Small Portion of the Massive Waterpocket FoldResting Place
This old tree remnant, resting at the base of a small rock drop off, reminded me of a line from a German poem that I had to memorize in college. Amazingly, I can still remember the complete poem decades later. The last line translated from the original German: Just wait, soon you too will rest.
Strike Valley Overlook and Waterpocket Fold
An old, dead tree and its shadow were good foreground objects, so this appears in a number of my compositions here.
