Bisti Wilderness – Fall 2018 – Day 1

I left Ridgeway Colorado Saturday morning, September 22, via the San Juan Skyway, deciding to take that route to the south towards New Mexico, rather than travel the most direct route via US550, AKA The Million Dollar Highway, which I had just been on in July.  I wanted to see some different scenery and I was not disappointed, even though, I know US550 from Ouray to Durango would have been a great, if somewhat scary with its hairpin switch back turns on a mountain roadway with steep drop offs with no guard rails, route, too.

There were some really good fall colors, more reds than I had seen in the past few days, along the chosen route in southern Colorado.  I pulled over at one scenic pull out, needing a snack and to stretch my legs for a few minutes.  Others pulled in and out of this area, to take a look around, while I was there.  Before I got out of my vehicle, I saw, via my side mirror, the driver of a van behind me taking photos of my vehicle through his windshield.  After my snack, I got out and walked back past that van. The driver was just coming back and he commented that he really liked my vehicle.  The Sportsmobile does get a lot of attention, so it is not one to travel in inconspicuously.

As I was standing by the guardrail, looking out over the roadside mountain view, a group of motorcyclists, decked out in their riding apparel, pulled into the parking area.  Most of the bikes appeared to be Harleys, but I noted one near the middle of the pack that looked different.  I walked over to it to get a better look and commented to one of the nearby riders that I had never seen one like it before.  He pointed out that it was a Spyder, a three wheel motorbike, and the rider was a “middle age” (not sure what this is now) female, who was really chatty about her tricycle and pointed out another “sportier, more powerful” model near the back of the pack, also ridden by a female.  I asked one of the riders, if they were members of a particular club and he said they were just friends out for a ride.  Most were from Wyoming, but a couple, he said, were “Idaho Potatoes”.  He then held up his phone, asking if I would take a group photo.  So of course, I did.  Afterwards, I wished that I had had the presence of mind to ask their permission to get a shot of the group for my blog,

Nothing else of note happened along the route, but it was an enjoyable ride through countryside that I had not seen before.

I arrived at the south parking lot for Bisti access early Saturday afternoon, which, as expected on a weekend, had a number of vehicles in it, including a full size tour bus.  I parked near the entrance of the lot between the bus and a long wheel base Mercedes Sprinter RV.  After setting up, having lunch, gathering my selected photo gear for sunset photos, checking my Camelbak and InReach Explorer GPS device with previously set routes across the wilderness area, I relaxed a bit.  Later, seeing the tour bus driver, I went over and chatted a bit with him.  He turned out to be a very talkative person.  He was originally from the northeastern US, but had moved to Colorado years ago, as had other member of his family.  I learned that the tourists he was driving around were Latvian.  It was a small group, too small to be profitable, he said, but the tour company had to host them, nonetheless.  They had a guide to conduct them around Bisti, which was fortunate, otherwise they would, most likely, have no idea how to navigate to any of the interesting sites within Bisti.  I was surprised that they were out there during the heat of the day.

Around 5PM, I set out into the wilderness, heading to an area referred to as the “Nursery” or “Cracked Eggs”, to which I had not yet been on either of my other two trips to Bisti.  I loosely followed a pre-determined route that I sketched out via a satellite map view of the area with points of interest marked as waypoints, using GPS coordinates gleaned from online searches and a few from earlier photos that I had taken with GPS coordinates recorded via a device attached to my Nikon D90 some years ago.  The one way distance to my destination was about 2 miles.  So the resulting hiking distance was a bit longer, since I scouted a few interesting looking areas just off of my route for future possible destinations, recording a few new waypoints on my GPS device and getting a few reference photos with my iPhone.  My Garmin InReach Explorer connects via Bluetooth to an app on my iPhone, which has an easier to use interface than that of the GPS device itself.

Routes that I set up prior to my visit. I only had time for portions of the south (red route) on this trip. The waypoints shown as 2011 photos were where I had shot in 2011 during my first visit here.
A satellite map view of my possible south area routes. My first day destination was “The Nursery” or “Cracked Eggs”.

Along the way, I encountered a few of the Latvian tourists heading back to the parking area.  They were not youngsters, mostly female, all looked a bit bedraggled and did not respond to my greetings.  Maybe they did not understand English very well or were just too tired, hot and thirsty to speak.

When I arrived at The Nursery, I was pleased to see that there was only one photographer there, since it is a relatively small area and multiple photographers there could easily get into each others way.  I chatted with him for a few minutes, then left him alone to finish his shooting, while I scouted the area, being careful to stay out of his way.  It was still a while before the “golden” hour prior to sunset and I was a bit surprised that he was shooting prior to that time, since he was obviously a professional.  However, he appeared to be shooting close ups of details in the “cracked eggs”, so I think he only needed the shadows and the contrasts.  When he finished shooting, he hailed me, saying “It is all yours”.  We chatted a bit more about gear, cameras, photography, etc. before he began his trek back to the parking lot.  In our conversation, I learned that the long wheel base Mercedes Sprinter RV in the parking lot was his.

The Nursery.  Nikon D850, Nikon 20-70mm @ 35mm, f/16, 1/15s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Soon afterwards, I proceeded to shoot a few compositions, even though it was still a bit early.   I noted a small Z shaped hoodoo and, as I looked it over, I thought that one edge of it had a facial shape and I could imagine the top of it as long hair streaming back from the head.   So I’ve dubbed this the Bisti Automobile Hood Ornament Hoodoo.  To shoot it from the most interesting direction and angle, I could not isolate it against the sky and I could see that the hillside in the background was going to be problematic, unless I just left the background blurry, which would be ok; but I did not want a blurry background.   To bring out the hoodoo from the background, I made a couple of images to focus stack in Photoshop, then played around with a couple of ideas for merging the images.  I decided that the best looking result was a color background with a monotone image of the hoodoo, blended in Photoshop.  I selected “seamless color and tones” for the blending during the focus stacking process, which muted the color in the background, but I still think it contrasts well with the black and white hoodoo image in the foreground.

Bisti Automobile Hood Ornament Hoodoo. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/16, 0.6s, ISO 64. This is a composite of two shots focus stacked in Adobe Photoshop, with prior edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.

As I was shooting, a couple of more people showed up and we greeted each other.  Recognizing a German accent, I struck up a conversation.  The man (Wiener) and his daughter (Anna), who was a student (university, I surmise), were on a tour around the western US, having started in Los Angeles.  He and his family had visited the US on numerous occasions and he commented on how crowded the National Parks are now as compared to his first visits.

As the sun went low on the horizon, we each went about our shooting, being careful to keep both ourselves and our shadows out of the other’s shots.  Weiner did most of the shooting, but occasionally shared his camera with Anna.  Both shot hand holding the camera, as most tourist tend to do and I expect they were shooting with their camera in Auto mode.  There were clouds on the horizon, which intermittently blocked the best sun rays, so we would stop shooting and chat a bit, then resume shooting when the clouds moved away.

The Nursery. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/16, 0.8s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Cracked Egg. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 46mm, f/16, 0.8s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
The Nursery. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/16, 1/5s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4
Cracked Eggs. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/16, 1/10s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
The Nursery. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/16, 0.6s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
The hillside, with emerging hoodoos, to the east of The Nursery with moonrise. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/16, 1/6s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Cracked Eggs. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 48mm, f/16, 0.5s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
Cracked Eggs. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 52mm, f/16, 1/6s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Cracked Eggs. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/16, 1/3s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

There was a beautiful sunset that afternoon, which we both shot, before heading back to the parking lot.  When I put a reverse graduated neutral density filter into the filter holder attached to my camera lens, Anna was intrigued, as she was not familiar with the use of filters.  I explained to Anna why that particular filter was useful for photographing sunsets; but I gathered that Weiner knew about the use of neutral density filters.

Bisti sunset silhouette at The Nursery. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 1/4s, ISO 64, Progrey 0.9 Reverse Graduated Neutral Density Filter. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

There was nothing of interest in the foreground for this sunset shot, so I was satisfied with a silhouette shot.

Anna, learning that I lived in Texas, asked if I had been to Big Bend NP.  So I told them about my first disastrous visit there, as we hiked back to the parking area.  (I should write a blog about that trip sometime.  It was a very memorable experience, although not a really successful photography trip).

We arrived back in the parking lot, where Weiner and Anna were tent camping, just before it got really dark.  They were planning to go out again in the morning, but not prior to sunrise, as I was.  We said goodnight and I did not see them again, other than from a far distance the next morning, so I did not get a chance to learn more about them.

The photo compositional possibilities here are only limited by one’s imagination.  I have so many photos that I like from this photo session that it is not practical to include them all in this post, so I have selected only a few to include here, but others will be put onto my Flickr page.

2018 Colorado Fall Color Road Trip – Day 3 – Sunset – Supplement

After the previous post, I realized that I had forgotten to include a few iPhone photos of my final campsite along Owl Creek Pass Road.  So this is just a brief post to add those photos.  Thanks for your indulgence.

The final campsite along Owl Creek Pass Road, Colorado. Fall 2018, iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
A panorama at the last campsite along Owl Creek Pass Road, Colorado. Fall 2018, iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Panorama of last campsite along Owl Creek Pass Road, Colorado, Fall 2018. iPhone Photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Scenes Along Colorado 4 Wheel Drive Roads in the Ouray, Silverton and Telluride Areas of Colorado, Part 2

As the title implies, this is a continuation of the previous post.  The photos in this post are a combination of iPhone and DSLR photos and were taken while traversing these 4 wheel drive roads:  Imogene Pass, Engineer Pass, California Pass and maybe others. (I neglected to take notes of where we were each day and I can’t positively identify the location of some of the photos that I acquired and I am not using a GPS device on my current camera.  This is an issue that I must address in the future).

A typical view that one sees along these roads in the higher elevations is as shown here:

A typical mountain view from a high mountain pass road (iPhone)

We traveled Imogene Pass Road from the Ouray side, accessing it from US 550, splitting off from the road that goes to Yankee Boy Basin (covered in a previous post).  Imogen Pass is the second highest mountain pass in Colorado at 13, 114 feet.  It is rated as moderate, which means that only suitably equipped 4 wheel drive vehicles should attempt this road.  There are Jeep rentals in the local area and we saw many of the rental vehicles on this road, as well as some specialized tour vehicles with seating for passengers in a flat bed area.  Those tour vehicles looked a bit large for these type roads, but apparently their drivers are experienced in driving these roads.  The seating in the tour vehicles appeared to all be in the open, meaning one might get wet and cold, when caught in one of the frequent mountain showers, if not properly prepared for the weather.  Views along the road can be spectacular.  These two photos show the view looking back down the road that we traveled up to the pass:

A view from Imogene Pass Summit (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld)
A view from Imogene Pass summit (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld) (More zoomed in than the previous photo).

A view in the opposite direction, in which we would continue is shown in this photo:

Imogene Pass Summit view (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld)

As along most of these roads, there are numerous abandoned mine sites.  The Imogene Pass road goes through the large Tomboy mine site, which was a really large operation, before it was abandoned in 1928.  The remains of the buildings cover a rather large area and one could spend quite a bit of time wandering around the site.  However, these abandoned mining areas can be dangerous and nearly all are on private property with warning signs not to enter old mines or buildings.  Tomboy is one of the highest ghost towns in the US.  There was a store, school, living quarters for miners and even a YMCA.

A few of the many ruins at the Tomboy Mine townsite (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld)

One can often see views of other mountain roads from these high mountain roadways.  One of the famously difficult 4 wheel drive roads is Black Bear, which has numerous sharp switchbacks, that typically require at least two point turns, even for short wheel base vehicles.  We got a glimpse of Black Bear as we neared Telluride on the way down from Imogene Pass.

A view of the sharp switch backs on the difficult Black Bear 4 wheel drive (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld)

This is not a great photo, a big zoom would have worked better for showing the details of the switchbacks, but I only had a wide angle with me.  Look closely in the green area just below the peak about one third across the photo from the left and you can see the trace of the roadway down the steep mountainside.  There is also a long waterfall almost in the center of the photo in the cliff face.  One has to look very closely to see the waterfall in this photo.

To drive Engineer Pass, we began just off of US 550 between Ouray and Silverton.  This road is rated as moderate and I think most of the difficult part is near the starting point off of US 550.  After passing through that portion, much of the road is fairly easy (easy for me, since I was not driving).  We did not continue the road down into Lake City, electing to go to the ghost town of Animas Forks and continuing along other roads from Animas Forks, over California Pass, down Corkscrew Gulch and arriving back at US 550.

An abandoned mine site as seen from Engineer Pass road (iPhone)
Odom Point along the Engineer Pass road route (iPhone)
Engineer Pass Road (iPhone)
An old mine line shack on the road between Engineer Pass and Animas Forks (iPhone)
Animas Forks Ghost Town near Silverton, Colorado (iPhone)

Animas Forks is a mining ghost town near Silverton, Colorado.  It can be accessed by a passenger vehicle in the summer months along County Road 2 from Silverton or via a number of other 4 wheel drive roads.  There are a number of fairly well preserved building at this site and, as you will see in these photos, is a popular site to visit.

A few of the four wheel drive vehicles in the parking area at Animas Forks ghost town (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld)
Old mine building foundation at Animas Forks ghost town (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld)
One of the better preserved buildings in Animas Forks ghost town (Nikon D850, Nikkor 14-24mm, handheld)

From Animas Forks, we proceeded along another 4 wheel drive road to California Pass.

A view from California Pass Summit (iPhone)
California Pass Summit (iPhone)
The Jeep at California Pass Summit (iPhone) (Note the GoPro on the driver side front fender).
Long winding 4 wheel drive roads just below California Pass summit (iPhone)

We continued along the road that passes to the left of the lake in the above photo.  The road to the right of the lake goes to another much more difficult 4 wheel drive road.

A lake just below California Pass summit (iPhone) (A closer view of the lake seen in the previous photo)
An abandoned mine sluice along the California Pass Road (iPhone)
Clouds gathering over the aptly named Red Mountains, California Pass Road (iPhone)

We continued back to US 550 on Corkscrew 4 wheel drive, but I did not get any interesting photos along that route.

This marks the end of my July trip to Colorado.  The following photos are a few iPhone shots that I took on the route back home.

The Sportsmobile at Lake Meredith National Recreation Area, Texas (iPhone)
A panorama of a portion of Lake Meredith (iPhone)
A warning sign at a Texas Panhandle Rest Stop (iPhone)

 

 

 

 

 

Bisti Badlands

My oldest son and I recently spent a couple of days in Bisti Badlands, New Mexico and the local area.  The rock formations and landscape here are other worldly.  There are no trails to follow, one must either explore randomly or find GPS coordinates or generalized directions for particular areas of interest.  I have now visited Bisti on two occasions, the first a few years ago and I have not yet seen everything of interest in Bisti, so I will plan to visit again at some future date, hopefully not in the summer, since  the summers here are hot during the day, but the evenings and early mornings are fairly comfortable, especially during and after thunderstorms, which we were lucky to have in the evenings, when we were there.  In fact one of the storms presented us with a tremendous lightning display, some of which my son captured via a GoPro camera.  After the storm passed over us, I put the penthouse top of the Sportsmobile up and enjoyed the distant lightning display and cool breeze as I lay there waiting for sleep to over take me.

We were fortunate to have the area essentially to ourselves most of the time.  We did see a few others come and go, but never encountered anyone while photographing and exploring the area.

As we saw storms on two sides of us and one heading towards us, during our last evening of photography in the wilderness, we decided to beat a hasty retreat to the parking area and the safety of our camping vehicle.  Upon arriving at the parking area, we found another vehicle parked next to ours, but no one around.  So we assumed the vehicle owner(s) were out in the wilderness area.  As the storm got closer and darkness began to fall, we saw lights in the distance coming from the wilderness.  We left our vehicle interior lights on as a beacon for the hikers, since otherwise it can be difficult to find ones way back to the parking area in the dark.  We watched the progress of the lights approaching the parking area, eventually seeing a young couple arriving just before the serious rain began. They had planned to camp in the wilderness, but they realized that it was unsafe to be out there during a severe thunderstorm.  The young man made a point to come over and thank us for our lights, which he said were a great help to them in finding their way back to the parking area.  They hung around for awhile, then left, leaving the parking area totally to us for the rest of the night.

Even though, there was a hard, blowing rain for awhile during the thunderstorm, the hot desert area was mostly dry the next morning. We photographed during the early morning sunrise, then moved on to our next destination in Colorado, which will be the subject of my next post.  So stay tuned for more…

Some (eventually maybe all) of the photos posted here will also be uploaded to my Flickr page, where they might be viewed more easily.

Sign Post along Bisti Highway
Alone in Bisti
Bisti/De-Na-Zin BLM Sign Post
Geographic Map of Bisti/De-Na-Zin
Sunrays and Hoodoos in Bisti Badlands
Starship Hoodoo
Bird like Bisti hoodoo
Various Bisti Hoodoos under a cloudy sky
Bisti Hoodoos
Sombrero Rock
Bisti rocks
Another starship?
Bisti Rocks
Bisti Landscape
Stripped Hoodoos 2
Stripped hoodoos
Golden hour at Bisti
Bisti early morning light
Interesting hoodoo
Starship Hoodoo