{Readers might note that this post is out of chronological order. Apparently, I overlooked the draft of this post as I was publishing my blogs}.
My oldest son arrived in Bisti during the afternoon of my second day there. We decided to go to the place that I had scouted the previous afternoon for sunset photography.
It was another very cloudy day near sunset as we arrived at our destination and began preliminary shooting and picking our spots for sunset shots.
Adobe Lightroom now has a new Texture adjustment that I discovered while editing this photo. I probably pushed it too much in this photo, but I wanted to experiment with this new toy.
The tall feature in the upper right is a good navigation item here. It can be seen from far away and from various directions.
My oldest son is standing on the slope that I scouted the previous afternoon. Some late day light is apparent at the fringes of the rocks; but the cloud cover is making it brief and muted.
My shot from the slope, where my son was standing in the previous photo. Note the cloudy sky. There is golden hour light, but it is not as brilliant as one would like to see.
With such intermittant light it is always difficult to know what to do or where to be for the best photographic opportunity. One can be patient and stick to one place or move around, looking for other compositions. It is probably best to pick one composition and wait patiently. Sometimes I have patience, sometimes I don’t.
Even with brief and muted light, I like the image above with the contrasting highlights and dark shadows. I’ve used the alignment of the rocks and hoodoos as a leading line into the photo. This line also intersects with the line formed by the big hill in the upper center of the photo, which then leads the eyes to the sunset sky.
A cloudy sky can make for dramatic sunset silhouettes.
Another sunset silhouette with colorful, striated clouds. This image is cropped from a much larger image, most of which was just dark shadow in the foreground. Details in the shadows could have been brought out via editing, but there was really not anything there to add interest.
In the spring of 2018, my oldest son and I visited Joshua Tree National Park in Southern California. We photographed in the park in the early morning, late afternoon and night. During the middle hours of the day we scouted for places to photograph and/or we hiked several of the easy to moderate trails within the park. This post is not really about hiking so much as just exploring an area along Geology Road with illustrations via iPhone photos.
One can drive much of Geology Road in an ordinary passenger vehicle; but there are portions where a high clearance 4 wheel drive vehicle is recommended.
We drove much of the easier part of the road, including some of the rougher portions, stopping to explore around one boulder area.
There were some clouds to add interest to the photos and I am again contrasting color processing and monochrome processing.
My son standing on one of the rocks in the above photo gives one a sense of scale here.
One can always find interesting features within the boulder fields. In the preceding photos, note the window near the center of the photos.
Climbing around on the boulders, my son spotted what he referred to as a “bear” rock, nestled down within an opening between other large boulders. It looks like a modern art sculpture of a bear cub to me; but maybe others see something else.
Plants seemingly find a place to grow in the most unlikely places.
This panoramic image give one a sense of the openness of the area, even though there are large boulder piles and mountain peaks apparent in this vast desert area.
Fittingly, there are a few Joshua Trees scattered around within the boulder field.
Other desert type scrubby vegetation also populates the area.
A remnant of an old tree found within the boulder field.
Even a few California Barrel Cacti are present. A couple can be seen in the background of the gnarly tree trunk.
My son had found an outcrop of quartz in the desert opposite this boulder field on an earlier visit and he recalled how to hike to it again on this visit to the park. It is quite an impressive amount of quartz.
This post is short on words and maybe a bit long in photos; but at least that makes for a fast scan of the blog.
Since, I do not have anything from a recent journey, I am reaching back into my mental and photographic archives for this post. I have also revised the editing of the photos contained here. The original edits were mostly very conservative. Now that I have more time and getting more comfortable with advanced photo editing, I think I am able to extract better images from some of the original raw files that I initially ignored, considering them unworthy of sharing.
In March, 2014 two of my sons and I traveled to Escalante, Utah to explore and photograph in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. We had a couple of interesting events associated with our hikes in two of the well known and popular slot canyons.
On Monday, March 24 our first destinations were Peek-A-Boo and Spooky Slot Canyons which feed into the Dry Fork of Coyote Gulch. We arrived at the parking area, after traveling down the very washboarded Hole In The Rock Road and a heavily rutted side road with signage recommending high clearance and preferably 4-wheel drive vehicles. We were in a high clearance Jeep, so no problem for us. As we were gathering our gear from the Jeep, a rather low clearance, smallish crossover type vehicle, that we had passed on Hole In The Rock Road, pulled into the lot. We were surprised that anyone in that type vehicle would travel the rutted, dirt road, especially after seeing the warning signs; but the road was not wet or muddy, at least, so a careful driver could navigate it. We met the driver, a young Swiss man, at the trail head marker and chatted with him. He told us that his rental vehicle was 4-wheel drive, but I expect it was the more typical All Wheel Drive rental vehicle.
As we all started the hike, which began on a slick rock slope, then transitioned to a steep, sandy slope down into the dry wash, we noted that the young Swiss man, who was using two hiking canes, had a physical handicap that did not allow him normal use of his legs. Consequently, we soon outpaced him.
We arrived at the entrance to Peek-A-Boo slot and, just as one of our references describe, there was a shallow pool of water in front of a sheer drop off from the slot canyon. Someone had put a few rocks across the pool, stacked a few at the base of the sheer wall and leaned a small tree trunk or maybe a large tree branch against the wall as aids for climbing the sheer wall. There were also a few shallow toe holds cut into the sheer face of the rock wall. After some consideration, we decided that with all of our gear, it would not be wise to attempt this entrance to the canyon. We knew, from our reference for this hike, that one could hike up slope in the general direction from which the canyon came and eventually find a place to drop down into the canyon from above. So we began hiking up away from the dry wash. We were not always able to stick close to the canyon, but we were able to hike back in the direction of the slot and eventually found an entrance point at the upstream start of the canyon. However, we were not sure that we would be able to climb back out at this point and we had no ropes with us. We had cargo tie down straps back in our motel room, so we decided that the safest plan was to come back the next day with a few of those straps, which we could tie together and use, if necessary.
We hiked back to the dry wash on our way to the next slot, known as Spooky. As we were passing the entrance to Peek-A-Boo, we were incredibly surprised to see that the young Swiss man, with his hiking canes, camera, tripod and day pack, had managed to ascend the sheer wall to the first level. (There were two or three levels on the wall, where one could stand). We were concerned that the young man might injury himself and we tried to talk him into coming down. He insisted that he had to go ahead, so we stayed there to make sure that he got up safely. As he tried to lift his leg to put his foot into the next foot hold, it became obvious that he was physically unable to raise his leg sufficiently to continue. He then realized that he could not go on, but he seemed afraid of getting down from his perch. We assured him that we would help him down. He passed his gear down to us, asking us to please be careful with his camera. My oldest son was quite helpful guiding his feet into the foot holds, while we were all making sure he did not fall. He was obviously concerned about his safety during his descent and expressed his gratitude to us, when he was safely back in the wash.
We suggested that he walk along with us to Spooky. He agreed, but said he would be slow and we assured him that we would stay with him.
We arrive at Spooky after about a half mile of walking in the wash. Spooky is a very narrow slot, frequently requiring one to walk sideways with arms outreached with backpack in one hand and tripod with camera in the other hand. The walls are also rough and abrasive, which wore holes in our backpacks as these were pulled through the narrow passage. I am not a big person and both my chest and back frequently scrapped against the walls. Anyone much larger than me would not be able to squeeze through this slot.
The best time for photography in the slots is when the sun is high enough for sunlight to penetrate into the dark, narrow canyon. Light reflecting off of the sandstone walls can create interesting color, highlighting the texture of the rock.
The low light within the canyon can also require larger apertures, slow shutter speeds and maybe even multiple exposures for creating HDR images.
Eventually, the slot opened up into a wide, sandy wash, which we used to walk back to the main trail. The young Swiss man took off across country in the opposite direction. He had a GPS and we never heard of anyone going missing here during our visit, so I am assuming he got back safely.
(On a subsequent trip in the hot summer, by two of my sons, they encountered a woman and her children in the parking lot, asking them to keep an eye out for her husband. They had been hiking and got disoriented. The husband hiked up to a higher elevation to try to see the way out and disappeared. He eventually perished, before he could be found. The environment here is deadly for those not sufficiently prepared).
One does not want to be in one of these slots, when there is any rain in the area. Flash floods through these canyons will be deadly for anyone in these canyons during one.
These canyons are beautiful and a joy to hike through, just make sure to use care in getting here. Carry plenty of water, snacks, wear proper clothing and either know the area well or carry a GPS and/or map and compass.
The rough texture of the canyon walls is clearly visible in the above photo.
And yet, some portions of the walls are rather smooth as shown in the above photo.
The sandstone looks purplish in low light and reddish in brighter light.
The narrowness of most of the route is obvious in the above photo, which is just a slightly different angle of the same section as in the previous photo.
It is amazing how flowing water over many years has carved and sculpted the rock walls of these amazingly beautiful canyons.
Part II of this blog will relate yet another significant experience involving a hiker in distress in our subsequent trip to Peek-A-Boo Slot on the following day. So stay tuned for more in a week or so.
I left Ridgeway Colorado Saturday morning, September 22, via the San Juan Skyway, deciding to take that route to the south towards New Mexico, rather than travel the most direct route via US550, AKA The Million Dollar Highway, which I had just been on in July. I wanted to see some different scenery and I was not disappointed, even though, I know US550 from Ouray to Durango would have been a great, if somewhat scary with its hairpin switch back turns on a mountain roadway with steep drop offs with no guard rails, route, too.
There were some really good fall colors, more reds than I had seen in the past few days, along the chosen route in southern Colorado. I pulled over at one scenic pull out, needing a snack and to stretch my legs for a few minutes. Others pulled in and out of this area, to take a look around, while I was there. Before I got out of my vehicle, I saw, via my side mirror, the driver of a van behind me taking photos of my vehicle through his windshield. After my snack, I got out and walked back past that van. The driver was just coming back and he commented that he really liked my vehicle. The Sportsmobile does get a lot of attention, so it is not one to travel in inconspicuously.
As I was standing by the guardrail, looking out over the roadside mountain view, a group of motorcyclists, decked out in their riding apparel, pulled into the parking area. Most of the bikes appeared to be Harleys, but I noted one near the middle of the pack that looked different. I walked over to it to get a better look and commented to one of the nearby riders that I had never seen one like it before. He pointed out that it was a Spyder, a three wheel motorbike, and the rider was a “middle age” (not sure what this is now) female, who was really chatty about her tricycle and pointed out another “sportier, more powerful” model near the back of the pack, also ridden by a female. I asked one of the riders, if they were members of a particular club and he said they were just friends out for a ride. Most were from Wyoming, but a couple, he said, were “Idaho Potatoes”. He then held up his phone, asking if I would take a group photo. So of course, I did. Afterwards, I wished that I had had the presence of mind to ask their permission to get a shot of the group for my blog,
Nothing else of note happened along the route, but it was an enjoyable ride through countryside that I had not seen before.
I arrived at the south parking lot for Bisti access early Saturday afternoon, which, as expected on a weekend, had a number of vehicles in it, including a full size tour bus. I parked near the entrance of the lot between the bus and a long wheel base Mercedes Sprinter RV. After setting up, having lunch, gathering my selected photo gear for sunset photos, checking my Camelbak and InReach Explorer GPS device with previously set routes across the wilderness area, I relaxed a bit. Later, seeing the tour bus driver, I went over and chatted a bit with him. He turned out to be a very talkative person. He was originally from the northeastern US, but had moved to Colorado years ago, as had other member of his family. I learned that the tourists he was driving around were Latvian. It was a small group, too small to be profitable, he said, but the tour company had to host them, nonetheless. They had a guide to conduct them around Bisti, which was fortunate, otherwise they would, most likely, have no idea how to navigate to any of the interesting sites within Bisti. I was surprised that they were out there during the heat of the day.
Around 5PM, I set out into the wilderness, heading to an area referred to as the “Nursery” or “Cracked Eggs”, to which I had not yet been on either of my other two trips to Bisti. I loosely followed a pre-determined route that I sketched out via a satellite map view of the area with points of interest marked as waypoints, using GPS coordinates gleaned from online searches and a few from earlier photos that I had taken with GPS coordinates recorded via a device attached to my Nikon D90 some years ago. The one way distance to my destination was about 2 miles. So the resulting hiking distance was a bit longer, since I scouted a few interesting looking areas just off of my route for future possible destinations, recording a few new waypoints on my GPS device and getting a few reference photos with my iPhone. My Garmin InReach Explorer connects via Bluetooth to an app on my iPhone, which has an easier to use interface than that of the GPS device itself.
Along the way, I encountered a few of the Latvian tourists heading back to the parking area. They were not youngsters, mostly female, all looked a bit bedraggled and did not respond to my greetings. Maybe they did not understand English very well or were just too tired, hot and thirsty to speak.
When I arrived at The Nursery, I was pleased to see that there was only one photographer there, since it is a relatively small area and multiple photographers there could easily get into each others way. I chatted with him for a few minutes, then left him alone to finish his shooting, while I scouted the area, being careful to stay out of his way. It was still a while before the “golden” hour prior to sunset and I was a bit surprised that he was shooting prior to that time, since he was obviously a professional. However, he appeared to be shooting close ups of details in the “cracked eggs”, so I think he only needed the shadows and the contrasts. When he finished shooting, he hailed me, saying “It is all yours”. We chatted a bit more about gear, cameras, photography, etc. before he began his trek back to the parking lot. In our conversation, I learned that the long wheel base Mercedes Sprinter RV in the parking lot was his.
Soon afterwards, I proceeded to shoot a few compositions, even though it was still a bit early. I noted a small Z shaped hoodoo and, as I looked it over, I thought that one edge of it had a facial shape and I could imagine the top of it as long hair streaming back from the head. So I’ve dubbed this the Bisti Automobile Hood Ornament Hoodoo. To shoot it from the most interesting direction and angle, I could not isolate it against the sky and I could see that the hillside in the background was going to be problematic, unless I just left the background blurry, which would be ok; but I did not want a blurry background. To bring out the hoodoo from the background, I made a couple of images to focus stack in Photoshop, then played around with a couple of ideas for merging the images. I decided that the best looking result was a color background with a monotone image of the hoodoo, blended in Photoshop. I selected “seamless color and tones” for the blending during the focus stacking process, which muted the color in the background, but I still think it contrasts well with the black and white hoodoo image in the foreground.
As I was shooting, a couple of more people showed up and we greeted each other. Recognizing a German accent, I struck up a conversation. The man (Wiener) and his daughter (Anna), who was a student (university, I surmise), were on a tour around the western US, having started in Los Angeles. He and his family had visited the US on numerous occasions and he commented on how crowded the National Parks are now as compared to his first visits.
As the sun went low on the horizon, we each went about our shooting, being careful to keep both ourselves and our shadows out of the other’s shots. Weiner did most of the shooting, but occasionally shared his camera with Anna. Both shot hand holding the camera, as most tourist tend to do and I expect they were shooting with their camera in Auto mode. There were clouds on the horizon, which intermittently blocked the best sun rays, so we would stop shooting and chat a bit, then resume shooting when the clouds moved away.
There was a beautiful sunset that afternoon, which we both shot, before heading back to the parking lot. When I put a reverse graduated neutral density filter into the filter holder attached to my camera lens, Anna was intrigued, as she was not familiar with the use of filters. I explained to Anna why that particular filter was useful for photographing sunsets; but I gathered that Weiner knew about the use of neutral density filters.
There was nothing of interest in the foreground for this sunset shot, so I was satisfied with a silhouette shot.
Anna, learning that I lived in Texas, asked if I had been to Big Bend NP. So I told them about my first disastrous visit there, as we hiked back to the parking area. (I should write a blog about that trip sometime. It was a very memorable experience, although not a really successful photography trip).
We arrived back in the parking lot, where Weiner and Anna were tent camping, just before it got really dark. They were planning to go out again in the morning, but not prior to sunrise, as I was. We said goodnight and I did not see them again, other than from a far distance the next morning, so I did not get a chance to learn more about them.
The photo compositional possibilities here are only limited by one’s imagination. I have so many photos that I like from this photo session that it is not practical to include them all in this post, so I have selected only a few to include here, but others will be put onto my Flickr page.
After the previous post, I realized that I had forgotten to include a few iPhone photos of my final campsite along Owl Creek Pass Road. So this is just a brief post to add those photos. Thanks for your indulgence.
As the title implies, this is a continuation of the previous post. The photos in this post are a combination of iPhone and DSLR photos and were taken while traversing these 4 wheel drive roads: Imogene Pass, Engineer Pass, California Pass and maybe others. (I neglected to take notes of where we were each day and I can’t positively identify the location of some of the photos that I acquired and I am not using a GPS device on my current camera. This is an issue that I must address in the future).
A typical view that one sees along these roads in the higher elevations is as shown here:
We traveled Imogene Pass Road from the Ouray side, accessing it from US 550, splitting off from the road that goes to Yankee Boy Basin (covered in a previous post). Imogen Pass is the second highest mountain pass in Colorado at 13, 114 feet. It is rated as moderate, which means that only suitably equipped 4 wheel drive vehicles should attempt this road. There are Jeep rentals in the local area and we saw many of the rental vehicles on this road, as well as some specialized tour vehicles with seating for passengers in a flat bed area. Those tour vehicles looked a bit large for these type roads, but apparently their drivers are experienced in driving these roads. The seating in the tour vehicles appeared to all be in the open, meaning one might get wet and cold, when caught in one of the frequent mountain showers, if not properly prepared for the weather. Views along the road can be spectacular. These two photos show the view looking back down the road that we traveled up to the pass:
A view in the opposite direction, in which we would continue is shown in this photo:
As along most of these roads, there are numerous abandoned mine sites. The Imogene Pass road goes through the large Tomboy mine site, which was a really large operation, before it was abandoned in 1928. The remains of the buildings cover a rather large area and one could spend quite a bit of time wandering around the site. However, these abandoned mining areas can be dangerous and nearly all are on private property with warning signs not to enter old mines or buildings. Tomboy is one of the highest ghost towns in the US. There was a store, school, living quarters for miners and even a YMCA.
One can often see views of other mountain roads from these high mountain roadways. One of the famously difficult 4 wheel drive roads is Black Bear, which has numerous sharp switchbacks, that typically require at least two point turns, even for short wheel base vehicles. We got a glimpse of Black Bear as we neared Telluride on the way down from Imogene Pass.
This is not a great photo, a big zoom would have worked better for showing the details of the switchbacks, but I only had a wide angle with me. Look closely in the green area just below the peak about one third across the photo from the left and you can see the trace of the roadway down the steep mountainside. There is also a long waterfall almost in the center of the photo in the cliff face. One has to look very closely to see the waterfall in this photo.
To drive Engineer Pass, we began just off of US 550 between Ouray and Silverton. This road is rated as moderate and I think most of the difficult part is near the starting point off of US 550. After passing through that portion, much of the road is fairly easy (easy for me, since I was not driving). We did not continue the road down into Lake City, electing to go to the ghost town of Animas Forks and continuing along other roads from Animas Forks, over California Pass, down Corkscrew Gulch and arriving back at US 550.
Animas Forks is a mining ghost town near Silverton, Colorado. It can be accessed by a passenger vehicle in the summer months along County Road 2 from Silverton or via a number of other 4 wheel drive roads. There are a number of fairly well preserved building at this site and, as you will see in these photos, is a popular site to visit.
From Animas Forks, we proceeded along another 4 wheel drive road to California Pass.
We continued along the road that passes to the left of the lake in the above photo. The road to the right of the lake goes to another much more difficult 4 wheel drive road.
We continued back to US 550 on Corkscrew 4 wheel drive, but I did not get any interesting photos along that route.
This marks the end of my July trip to Colorado. The following photos are a few iPhone shots that I took on the route back home.
My oldest son and I recently spent a couple of days in Bisti Badlands, New Mexico and the local area. The rock formations and landscape here are other worldly. There are no trails to follow, one must either explore randomly or find GPS coordinates or generalized directions for particular areas of interest. I have now visited Bisti on two occasions, the first a few years ago and I have not yet seen everything of interest in Bisti, so I will plan to visit again at some future date, hopefully not in the summer, since the summers here are hot during the day, but the evenings and early mornings are fairly comfortable, especially during and after thunderstorms, which we were lucky to have in the evenings, when we were there. In fact one of the storms presented us with a tremendous lightning display, some of which my son captured via a GoPro camera. After the storm passed over us, I put the penthouse top of the Sportsmobile up and enjoyed the distant lightning display and cool breeze as I lay there waiting for sleep to over take me.
We were fortunate to have the area essentially to ourselves most of the time. We did see a few others come and go, but never encountered anyone while photographing and exploring the area.
As we saw storms on two sides of us and one heading towards us, during our last evening of photography in the wilderness, we decided to beat a hasty retreat to the parking area and the safety of our camping vehicle. Upon arriving at the parking area, we found another vehicle parked next to ours, but no one around. So we assumed the vehicle owner(s) were out in the wilderness area. As the storm got closer and darkness began to fall, we saw lights in the distance coming from the wilderness. We left our vehicle interior lights on as a beacon for the hikers, since otherwise it can be difficult to find ones way back to the parking area in the dark. We watched the progress of the lights approaching the parking area, eventually seeing a young couple arriving just before the serious rain began. They had planned to camp in the wilderness, but they realized that it was unsafe to be out there during a severe thunderstorm. The young man made a point to come over and thank us for our lights, which he said were a great help to them in finding their way back to the parking area. They hung around for awhile, then left, leaving the parking area totally to us for the rest of the night.
Even though, there was a hard, blowing rain for awhile during the thunderstorm, the hot desert area was mostly dry the next morning. We photographed during the early morning sunrise, then moved on to our next destination in Colorado, which will be the subject of my next post. So stay tuned for more…
Some (eventually maybe all) of the photos posted here will also be uploaded to my Flickr page, where they might be viewed more easily.