Bisti Badlands Fall 2018, Day 2, Early Morning

I got up early Sunday morning, September 23, left the Bisti south parking area about 5AM and headed out into the dark wilderness area.  I started out with a headlamp, but soon switched to a brighter flashlight, as the normally bright headlamp just did not seem bright enough this morning.  It is one of those headlamps with multiple functions and it would not switch to the brightest mode.  This is a good reason to have backup light sources, when hiking in the dark.  I had another headlamp in my Camelbak, but the flashlight was easier to get to.

There are landmarks that are an aid to navigation during the daylight hours, but in the dark it is not possible to see those landmarks from a distance.  Fortunately, my GPS device, linked to my iPhone via Bluetooth, with a preset route made it quite easy to navigate towards my destination in the dark.  Before I got to my destination, an area with many hoodoos of various sizes and wing like or fanciful shapes, it became light enough that I no longer needed the flashlight.

I scouted the area for awhile before it got very light, looking for a good place to begin the early morning shoot.  I made a number of photos prior to the sunrise.  Since the light was still dim, getting good images was a challenge and those images required more extreme editing to bring out the details and produce more attractive images.

Early dawn in Bisti. This is an HDR image created from 6 images in Skylum Aurora2019. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 48mm, f/11 at various exposures.
Early dawn in Bisti. This is an HDR created from three images, using Skylum Aurora2019, with final edits in Nik Color Efex Pro 4. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 24mm, f/11, various exposures.
Pre-dawn in Bisti. Converted to monochrome in Nik Silver Efex Pro 2. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 44mm, f/11, 1/5s, ISO 250.
Pre-dawn in Bisti. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 31mm, f/11, 1/4s, ISO100. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro4.

I am never really satisfied with these low light images in which the heavy handed editing often produces unnatural results and, even though, it is an artistic expression, being artistically handicapped, I’ve never felt completely comfortable with the results.

When the sun rose above the eastern horizon, there was magnificent light on many of the hoodoos.

Early morning light in Bisti. This is a composite of three images focus-stacked in Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Color Efex Pro 4. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 65mm, f/11, 1/10s, ISO 64.
Early morning in Bisti. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 40mm, f/11, 1/13s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Early morning in Bisti. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 24mm, f/11, 1/15s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Early morning in Bisti. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 1/25s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4
Early morning in Bisti. Several images focus stacked in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm, at 62mm, f/11, 1/25s, ISO 64.

 

Early morning in Bisti. Focus stack of several images in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Early morning in Bisti. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 48mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Early morning in Bisti. Focus stack of several images in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 45mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64.

Note that I focus stacked images to extend the depth of field in many of my photos here.  This requires a bit more work in capturing sufficient images and much more time in the editing process, especially on my old, slow iMac.

I continued to shoot even after the “golden” hour, which is very limited in duration and I wanted to make the most of the limited time that I had for shooting here.  I felt that the contrast and shadows would still allow for the making of good images.

Early morning in Bisti. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64. Edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
Early morning in Bisti. Focus stack of several images in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 70mm, f/11, 1/30s, ISO 64.
Early morning in Bisti. Focus stack of several images in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 52mm, f/11, 1/30s, ISO 64.
A small Bisti Hoodoo and its shadow in early morning light. Focus Stack of two images in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.

I am becoming more interested in monochrome photography and this area is superb for this, since the colors are mostly muted, but the contrast, textures and shadows make for interesting monochrome compositions.

An unavoidable progression. Three small Bisti Hoodoos and their shadows in early morning. Focus stack of several images in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nike Silver Efex Pro 2. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 42mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64.
Three small Bisti Hoodoos and early morning shadows. Focus stack of several images in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.
Bisti Hoodoos and early morning shadows. Focus stack of several images in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 40mm, f/11, 1/40s, ISO 64.
Early morning in Bisti. Focus stack of several images in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 46mm, f/11, 1/60s, ISO 64.
Small Bisti Hoodoos. Focus stack of several images in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nike Color Efex Pro 4. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 62mm, f/11, 1/30s, ISO 64

As the morning wore on, I meandered around the area looking for additional subjects and for ideas for shooting at another more appropriate time of the day.

Alien Woman? Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 56mm (prior to crop), f/11, 1/10s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

I had spotted the above hoodoo on the previous day’s scouting.  I think it may be one that I saw referred to as an “alien woman” in someone else’s post, but the GPS coordinates of that post do not coincide with this hoodoo.  So either there are  more than one of these or the coordinates in the other’s post were incorrect, which I think may be the case, since in that post the photographer commented that he could not find the “alien woman” in a subsequent visit to Bisti.  Of course, these hoodoos are temporary and one of this sort might disappear over a relatively short time interval.

This “alien woman” hoodoo is in a difficult place to photograph at anytime of the day, but it is probably best shot in the afternoon, rather than the morning.  I did not think I would get back here again on this trip, so I shot it anyway, if for nothing more than a record of it’s existence and location, recording its GPS coordinates on my InReach Explorer.

Bisti Hoodoos. Focus stack of several images in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 38mm, f/11, 1/50s, ISO 64.

The above hoodoos are in the vicinity of the “alien woman”, just a bit more to the east.  These are moderately sized ones and would probably be best photographed earlier in the morning.  One can see that these are fragile and easily damaged.  I have seen photographs of people standing on some of the larger hoodoos in Bisti, which is not a good thing to do, it is not only dangerous, but could result in injury to oneself and possibly destroy or damage the hoodoos.

Hoodoo Window. Focus stack of several images in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 48mm, f/11, 1/60s, ISO 64.

The “elephant head” like hoodoo above bridges a gap in the supporting structure, making a window in the rock.

The Seal Hoodoo? Focus stack of several images in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 56mm, f/11, 1/50s, ISO 64.

The smaller hoodoo in the background (above) looks like one that I have seen referred to as “The Seal”; although, I thought “The Seal” was located more to the west, so maybe this is not “The Seal”.

The aquarium/fish face hoodoos. Focus stack of several images in Adobe Photoshop with edits in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Color Efex Pro 4. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 58mm, f/11, 1/60s, ISO 64.

I can imagine that the caps on these hoodoos look like fish faces, so I am calling this the “Aquarium” or “Fish Face Hoodoos”.

Dark Tower. Nikon D850, Nikon 24-70mm at 26mm (prior to crop), f/11, 1/30s, ISO 64. Edited in Adobe Lightroom and Nik Silver Efex Pro 2.

I made numerous images of the features above with the intention of focus stacking them; but when I looked at those photos, they just did not measure up to what I thought I saw when making them.  Consequently, I cropped one image to include the major features on top of this hill.  Since the back side of the tallest feature is in shadow, converting to black and white, makes it look like a “dark tower”, surrounded by guardian hoodoos.  (The one on the far left looks somewhat like a shark).  This image contains a view of “The Seal” from another angle, just to the left of the dark tower.

Finally realizing that the best of the morning light was gone, I headed back to the parking lot.  Just as I approached my vehicle, the photographer, whom I had met at The Nursery the previous afternoon, came out from his RV to greet me, saying “I knew when I saw you leaving at 5AM that you were serious about photography”.  Standing in the parking lot between our vehicles, we chatted for quite a while.  I was entranced as he talked much about his background and experiences as a photographer and as he offered suggestions on photographic topics that I questioned him about.  Near the end of this impromptu discussion, he said, “If you don’t mind, I have copies of a book that I offer to those I find with a serious interest in photography and I would like to give you one”.  Of course, I accepted and he autographed the book for me.  The book, The Ancient Shape of Man, is filled with beautiful, very sharp, large format monochrome images.

The gift from John Eric Hawkins, whom I chanced upon in Bisti.

Meeting and conversing with John Eric Hawkins and receiving his book as a gift was the highlight of this trip.  I found his website listed in the book, which he told me he has not updated for awhile;  nevertheless, his website has beautiful images and more information about John Eric.  His website is worth a visit for those of you interested in fine art photography.

Be sure to check out the images in this post on Flickr, where these appear in higher resolution and in a larger size.

Thanks for following and please feel free to offer comments, suggestions and critiques of the images and the writing within this blog.

 

2018 Colorado Fall Color Road Trip – Day 3 – Sunset – Supplement

After the previous post, I realized that I had forgotten to include a few iPhone photos of my final campsite along Owl Creek Pass Road.  So this is just a brief post to add those photos.  Thanks for your indulgence.

The final campsite along Owl Creek Pass Road, Colorado. Fall 2018, iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
A panorama at the last campsite along Owl Creek Pass Road, Colorado. Fall 2018, iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.
Panorama of last campsite along Owl Creek Pass Road, Colorado, Fall 2018. iPhone Photo, edited in Adobe LR and Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

Road Trip Problems and Frustrations

I made a trip to Colorado in middle to late September to see fall colors and then down to the Bisti Badlands to shoot there while the temperature was not so hot, to explore new areas and to experiment with different lenses.

I was not at all sure that the colors would be good in Colorado, since I would be going a little earlier than the colors normally peak, but I only had a small window into which to fit this trip, so I took a chance.  I had seen reports that the colors were early in areas that were in drought conditions, so I knew that I had a good chance of seeing some color, even if not peak color.

As it turns out the colors were quite good with some trees past peak, but many just peaking or not even changed at all.  So it does look like the drought is affecting the timing of the color change and stretching out the color change interval.  Anyway, I’ll have more on the photography of the fall color in a subsequent post.

Looks like peak or near peak color here. (iPhone photo)
Trees seem to be in peak color near Monarch Pass. (iPhone photo)

As the title of this post implies, this trip was fraught with some not so good experiences.  This post is just to vent these frustrations and to reveal the problems one might encounter in any such road trip.  I’m sure others, who do these type trips in camper vehicles, have encountered much more serious problems.

The first negative event happened on the first leg of the journey somewhere between Wichita Falls and Claude, Texas along US287, which is a four lane divided highway along most of that route.  Approaching an 18 wheeler, I pulled into the left hand lane to pass, then the 18 wheeler pulled into the lane in front of me, moving over for another 18 wheeler that had pulled off of the road with some problem.  No problem, I just backed off a bit and the 18 wheeler began to pull back into the right lane as soon as it cleared the 18 wheeler that was parked on the shoulder.  The highway surface there consists of aggregate and asphalt.  As the truck changed lanes, it apparently kicked up a rock which hit the left edge of my windshield with a loud crack, creating not only a rock chip, but a crack about six inches long.  That crack continued to grow throughout my road trip and is now more than double its original length.  When the sunlight falls on the crack at just the right angle, it creates a bright spot that flashes directly into my eyes.  A new windshield will be required and I just had a minor rock chip repaired after my first real road trip in the vehicle.

Windshield crack that was initiated by a rock hitting the edge of windshield. (iPhone photo)

The second negative event happened that evening at my first stop in route.  I planned to sleep in the penthouse bed, since that is usually more comfortable and cooler than the bench seat bed in the back of the Sportsmobile.  I pushed the button to activate the motor to raise the penthouse top and immediately there were loud popping noises from the passenger side of the motorized mechanism.  I immediately lowered the roof (the driver’s side was going up and the other side went up less, creating a tilt to the roof).  I repeated this process, hoping that whatever was causing the problem would be cleared.  I gave up raising the penthouse after several attempts, not wanting to get the top stuck in an up position.  I had just had another issue with the penthouse installation repaired by Sportsmobile in Austin a few weeks prior and I had not tried to raise the roof until this trip.  (Lesson learned:  Always check anything that is worked on before driving away).

So what are the impacts of not being able to raise the top, other than not being able to use the penthouse bed?  Items stored on the platform behind the bench seat have to be distributed elsewhere in the vehicle to make the lower bed, then put back before traveling again.  This takes time and is somewhat of a pain to do.  The bedding (sheets, pillows, covers) all have to be packed away, while these can be left in place in the Penthouse.  The lower bed is much firmer than the upper bed (the bench seat and back platform are covered in leather and quite firm).  On the positive side, when it is cold outside, which it was several nights in the higher elevations, it is warmer sleeping below, rather than in the penthouse, since the penthouse walls are just canvas and/or plastic in the window areas.

A third concern, which turned out not to be a real issue, was noted when I returned from the first morning photo shoot.  I noted a small wet spot beneath the vehicle near the diesel furnace, which I had used for just a few minutes in the cold, early morning just after awakening.  Upon inspection, I saw a slow fluid drip beneath the vehicle.  My fear was that it was a diesel leak, but I quickly ruled that out by an inspection of the fluid, which had no odor or oiliness.  I knew the furnace used some type of coolant, so I figured it was a coolant leak from the furnace.  I had no cell signal where I was, so it was later in the day, as I moved around that I was able to communicate via messaging with Sportsmobile.  Since it was not diesel, it had to be a coolant leak or overflow and the coolant, as I learned from Sportsmobile, is just distilled water.  I did not see any continuation of the leak on subsequent mornings, after using the furnace, so I assume the drip was just an overflow of distilled water and I now know how to check and replenish the coolant.  I did note an electrical connection at the fuel pump for the furnace, that might need attention.  The electrical wiring is contained in a conduit up to near the pump, then the wires are exposed.  It appears that the conduit may have come loose at the pump.

The wet spot. (iPhone photo)

The fourth issue was noted, when I came down from the mountain camping, setting up at Ridgway State Park for an overnight stay prior to heading to Bisti.  Since it was warm during the day and I had electrical hook up at the park, I turned on the A/C to keep the vehicle interior cool during the day.  It was only in the low 80s outside, but the interior of the vehicle can get much warmer in direct sunlight on a sunny day.  I had used the A/C the first night of my trip with no problems; but this time, the A/C ran for a few minutes then shut off.  It restarted after a few minutes, ran for a short time and shut off again.  It kept doing this and I knew that was not normal, since it usually ran continuously, until the target temperature on the thermostat was reached.  Going outside the vehicle, I noted that the sound from the A/C fans below the vehicle was not the normal sound.  Laying on the ground, looking up into the fans, I immediately saw the problem:  dried mud in the fans.  It had rained one day in the mountains and I had driven on muddy roads.  (I actually shifted into 4 wheel drive for the first time, as it felt as if the vehicle was sliding a bit on the muddy roads and there were many places where sliding off of the roadway would be a very undesirable event). The vehicle was quite muddy and I had gone into Montrose earlier that day to a self serve car wash to spray off most of the heavy mud from the upper body, the wheel wells, the wheels and whatever I could get to beneath the vehicle, including the edges of the A/C fans.  But I did not realize that there was mud inside the fan assembly  and the strong jet spray would probably not have been good for the fan and delicate vanes behind the fan, anyway.  I cleared the dried mud with a screwdriver, turned the fan blades manually to be sure there was no remaining obstruction and turned the A/C back on.  The A/C ran a few minutes longer, but still shut off and kept cycling on and off in an abnormal manner.  Since I had cell service, I put in a call to Sportsmobile.  We were able to confirm, via the battery monitor panel, that the current draw,  during the A/C operation was normal.  However, there is an internal automatic circuit breaker in the A/C unit that might be the problem.  It is possible that some damage was done to the system, when it was trying to run before the mud was cleared from the fans.  It would have been good to have been warned of this potential problem by Sportsmobile.  I’m sure this must have happened to others, since these vehicles are intended to be used off paved roads, where mud is frequently encountered.

The step after scraping mud from the top and the edges. The A/C fans are beneath the vehicle just behind this step. (iPhone photo)
Mud splattered van and ladder. (iPhone photo)
The vehicle accumulated a fair amount of mud, while exploring the area during a rainy day. The mud looked much worse before it dried. (iPhone photo)

Fortunately, opening the sliding doors and back doors with bug screens installed, the air flow through the vehicle was sufficient to keep the temperature inside in a comfortable range during the day and it got quite cool during the night, so I only needed to have the side awning window open during the night.

And another issue that I almost forgot:  There is a chirping sound, which I think is from the smoke detector, telling me that I need to replace its battery.  The problem is that the smoke detector is only accessible with the penthouse raised.  So I had to live with and try to sleep through the periodic chirping.

And yet another issue:  The fridge is noisy for a few seconds when its compressor first comes on.  It was not always this noisy.  It is normally rather quite when running.  The fridge comes on periodically and the initial noise is quite noticeable, when trying to sleep.

Other things that I learned and observed on this outing:  1.  I should make longer cables for the solar panels to allow for a greater range in placement to keep them in sunlight.  The downside to longer cables, is that these will result in a greater voltage loss  from the panels.  2.  The storage covers I made for the solar panels need revision.  The industrial strength velcro fasteners are stronger than the self adhesive, pulling some of the velcro off of the covers. 3.  I will need to get a monitor to use with the laptop for viewing and editing photos.  The 15inch MacBook Pro screen is just too small for me to adequately work with the photos and photo software.  I had hoped to live without a monitor, which is just another item to transport and secure within the Sportsmobile. 4.  I need to remember to use hand lotion on a regular basis in cold, dry climates.  My thumb print is apparently altered by dry cracked skin, (a painful, bleeding crack resulted, too) and the touch id on my iPhone still does not work.

As a result of all the noted problems, I will have to make another trip to Sportsmobile in Austin to have the noted issues checked out; but I have no time to do so prior to late October or early November.

A great campsite. Note the solar panels being overtaken by shadows. (iPhone HDR)
As the shadows moved, I moved the solar panels to take better advantage of the sunlight. (iPhone photo)

On the positive side, I was able to survive off the grid for several days in the mountains, during my first real solo trip in the Sportsmobile.  I had more than enough food, water and beverages on board for the entire trip, the vehicle continues to get lots of attention and complements and I met friendly and interesting people on this trip.  There will be more about the people and photos in subsequent posts.

I know that this has not been a very interesting read for my followers, but I felt that I needed to post something in the interim, until I get time to review the photos from this trip.

A view from my camp chair at the first campsite. (iPhone photo)
Courthouse Mountain lit up by late afternoon sun (extreme zoom iPhone photo from Ridgway State Park, Colorado).  I hoped to get a good view of this mountain from a closer distance somewhere along Owl Creek Pass Road and get a better photo.

 

More on McKinney Falls State Park, Austin, TX

McKinney Falls State Park near Austin, TX is a picturesque place in the fall, when fall colors are prevalent, and in the spring, when wildflowers are blooming.  The photos in this post are from a fall visit, during a drought, so the water flow over the falls was minimal.  After heavy rains there can be a tremendous amount of water flowing in the stream and over the falls.  At low flow, one can walk in the stream and over the falls, using care not to slip on the rock, as a fall could result in an injury or worse.

There are numerous camping areas in the park for both RV and tent campers with electric and water hookups.

It can be quite hot here in the summer, so fall and spring are probably the most comfortable times for camping.  However, an RV, with A/C and a furnace will be fine for the summer and winter camping.

More information can be obtained at McKinney Falls.

Fall in McKinney Falls State Park, Austin, TX
Lower Falls, eye level view
Lower Falls, Eye Level View 2
Diamond Back Water Snake