I finally got time to get away for a couple of weeks in March. My destinations were largely determined by weather patterns and the distance between those possible destinations. The first stop was Monahans Sandhills State Park between Odessa and Monahans, Texas. This is a place that I first visited briefly in the 1980s, while on a business trip in the area.
I arrive at the Sandhills about mid-afternoon on a Saturday, where I had reservations in the RV camping area for two nights. My campsite turned out to be in an advantageous site, adjacent to a dune that helped block the prevailing winds. It had been very windy here just a few days prior, which is good, since the wind erases the surface disturbances created by visitors to the dunes. However, I was there during a weekend, so I expected to have to work around the weekend visitors and their tracks in the sand dunes.
The park was fairly busy, as I expected, but the nightly winds helped mute the daily human disturbance of the sand dune surfaces. Initially, I was not impressed by the photographic possibilities in the dunes and many of my photos lived up to those low expectations. However, in the end I think I managed to get a few descent photos. I will let the readers judge the results for themselves and maybe provide some feedback on the posted photos.
It was rather cloudy, especially the first day at sunset, so the late day light was intermittent and not as good as one would have liked for landscape photography. The clouds added drama to the sky, but I never got the brilliantly lit or colorful clouds that I had looked forward to.
It was a bit of a challenge to find large areas of undisturbed sand, but as you can see in the above photo, I managed to find a few such areas. Although, there are muted footprints in the sand in the upper left side of the photo. In the previous photo, there are muted footprints evident in the right portion of the photo. I do not think these are so strongly apparent as to distract from the natural appearance of the sand.
The two trees in this photo are weather beaten and scraggly, but I like the glow in the sand at their base and the alternating dark to light in the sand ripples leading from the base of the photo to the trees. This originally started out as a wider landscape view, but there were distracting elements on the right hand side, so I cropped the photo to remove the distraction.
This sunset photo was taken at the end of my first day in the sandhills. There are notable human infrastructure item along the horizon, some of which I removed or muted via editing, but I could never get all of those features removed without leaving unattractive artifacts, so I left most of them in the photo. These are only visible and distracting, when one enlarges the photo.
This is enough for this post. I will continue with more photos from the sandhills in the next post.
One of the things that makes me angry and sad is the litter that I see left by visitors to our public parks and public lands. It is bad enough that there is litter and graffiti almost everywhere in public places and even marring private property, but why do those visiting our parks have such a disregard for the prominently displayed and publicized rules for being allowed to enjoy such places?
One would think that those seeking enjoyment of our great and scenic outdoor areas, would want to have those areas as unspoiled by human visitors as possible. Apparently, this is not the case for many visitors. Unfortunately, I think that we are failing as a society in inculcating respect and care for our environment, respect for public and private property.
This seems to be a universal problem. I spent some time in Europe in the early 1970s. When I visited again in the early 2000s, I was horrified by the level of graffiti and litter in the cities that has been so much neater and cleaner just 30 years earlier. How is it that people think that marking buildings (public and private) and leaving their trash in public places is acceptable behavior?
I now encounter more and more litter and defacing of property or natural features in every public park and wilderness area I visit. I found numerous beverage cans, bottles, clothing items or other litter in the sand dunes of Monahans Sandhills State Park, Texas during my recent visit. Many of the items noted had been recently left there. I’m guessing those leaving such items sometimes felt that they were being funny or cute with the way they left their trash. It is neither funny nor cute. It distracts from the natural beauty of such places. Just stop it! If a full beverage container or food package can be carried into an area, the empty package or container can easily be taken back out and disposed of properly.
Remember, take only memories (or photos) and leave only footprints, which nature will wipe away.
It is bad enough that one wanting to photograph our natural areas has to work to find places with no trace of human footprints, but those are mostly unavoidable and will eventually be erased by nature; but trash such as the beer can in the above photo will linger for many, many years.
I know that sometimes people drop items accidentally, but I have witnessed some purposely dropping or throwing trash away in public places. If you see such behavior, please offer a friendly suggestion that they “accidentally” left some trash behind. Maybe this will let them know that such behavior is not acceptable.
If you find such litter in a public place, especially our great natural parks and public lands, if possible take it to a proper disposal place.
I’ve just returned from a two weeks road trip and, as usual, after such trips there is much to do before I can get around to reviewing the photos taken during such trips. Added onto the usual catching up with items around the house, I’ve had to work to correct some software issues, at least some of which I created myself due to the way I decided to use a portable hard drive for Lightroom photos and the Lightroom catalog, so that I can work from both laptop and desktop computers.
In addition, I decided to upgrade my old Nik software, which has not been supported for some time now, to the new DXO Nik version. The software installed and ran on my MacBook Pro, but it did not want to run properly on my iMac. It took quite a bit of work over a couple of days to sort this out. In the end, I’m not sure what action(s) actually cured the problem, but at least now it is operational. In the process I learned how to remove the links to the old Nik versions from Lightroom. One would think this would be an easy, straight forward task, but no search of Adobe’s Help yielded any results on this topic, nor was DXO support completely helpful. Finally, I got suggestions from the Adobe community forum, none of which related directly to my installation, but at least got me onto the right track, allowing me to find and remove the problem files.
So now back to the subject of this post. Experienced landscape photographers need not read any more of this post, since I’m not revealing anything new here. However, beginners or novice landscape photographers might benefit from information shared here.
Light is the essence of photography. It is light that allows one to make photographs and the properties of light affect the resulting photographs. Readers may have heard the term “Golden Hour Light”, used by landscape photographers. This term refers to natural light just as the sun is rising or setting. At these times, when the sun is low in the sky, sunlight has to travel through more of the earth’s atmosphere, which favors the transmission of the warmer colors, filtering out the cooler colors. It is the “warmer light” that really bring to life objects illuminated by such light.
In this post I am showing an example of a scene shot with only the beginnings of this light and one with much more of this golden hour light.
The photo above, while lacking in great depth of field, shows the effect of muted late day light. It was a cloudy day and only a little golden hour light is getting through the cloud cover. This photo is taken looking north with the sunlight coming from the west. This is referred to as sidelight and is good for casting shadows, adding depth to a 2 dimensional photo. Note that there is only a sliver of brighter light going diagonally from the lower left corner towards the upper right and there are minimal shadows, but at least the light alternates in a repeating cycle from dark to light across the photograph. The overall tone is dark. Compare this to the photo below, taken just moments later.
The cloud cover is still muting the light in the second photo, but it is obviously much brighter and warmer with stronger shadows. The original image files for each of these final images are raw camera files with adjustments in Adobe Lightroom and Nik software. I’ve applied essentially the same edits to both photos. The difference the light properties make in these images is obvious. The second image “pops” much more than the first image.
As a side note, there is a photo shoot within these photos, which I did not fully realize, until enlarging these images during the processing. In the first photo, near the upper center in the sand just below the sky there are three figures, one female on the left in a red dress and two males to her right. At the time I took the photo, I just noted that there were three people walking in the background. While processing the second photo, I noted these same three people now grouped together just below the skyline on the left side of the photo. The enlargement shows a lighting umbrella device on a tripod, hence the conclusion that this is a photo shoot of the female in the red dress. These figures are only clearly visible (but not in sharp focus), if one enlarges the photo.
That is all for this post. I will have much more to share from this trip in subsequent posts.
For various reasons (weather, holidays, family matters, personal matters, etc.), I have put off travel (for outdoor photography) for much too long. Consequently, I have no new photography or journey about which I can blog. I have plans to remedy this soon. In the meantime, I have made a few improvements to my Sportsmobile.
As readers know, I acquired a Sportsmobile last year to get to places and provide a place to stay, while on photography expeditions. Previously, I had to stay in motels, requiring getting up in the very early hours of the morning to drive, then hike to the desired photography site for early morning photo shoots. If out late in the evening and tired, having to drive back in the dark, trying to stay alert and avoid road hazards, like deer in the roadway. After a few days of such activity exhaustion is inevitable.
To stay out in a wilderness area for a few days might require extra fuel, so I acquired three two gallon Rotopax diesel fuel containers and mounted them on top of the rear storage box. These containers are designed to be stacked, either horizontally or vertically.
Rotopax makes various sizes for gasoline, but for some reason they only make the diesel containers in a two gallon size. These can be mounted onto a vehicle in various ways. In my case, the top of the rear bumper mounted storage box seemed like the most logical place to put these. The rack on top of the storage box was just barely wide enough to squeeze in the first container on the bottom of the stack. In fact, I had to slightly tilt the first container at just the right angle and force it into the confines of the rack railing. While I thought this was ok, I later realized that getting that container out took more effort than I liked, even with an empty container. I’m sure with a full fuel container, this might prove to be a more difficult and unpleasant task..
To stack the Rotopax containers, there are extensions that go between the containers.
One extension per container is required. Each extension screws into the base or the extension below it and secures the container below it. There is also a locking extension accessory.
The Rotopax locking accessory will only secure one container, as putting it on the top of a stack, still allows the entire stack to be rotated, unscrewing the extensions below the locking extension. I solved this problem by installing an angle bracket onto the storage box such that the upright portion of the angle fits through one of the cutouts in the tank. This prevents the tank from being rotated. I covered the angle with a foam materiel held in place by electrical tape to prevent chafing of the fuel container by the bare steel angle.
The reviews of the Rotopax lock noted that it was prone to rust with prolonged exposure to moisture. The Rotopax manufacturer suggested covering the lock to prevent mud and water from getting into the lock and even only using the lock, when security was required and using a lubricant on a regular basis. So one could travel with the unlocked stack, then put the lock in position when away from the vehicle. This seemed a bit too awkward to me, so my first thought was to just put a small tarp over the stack; but a tarp would not keep out dust, which could still accumulate on the fuel containers, maybe resulting in dirt getting into the vehicle fuel tank, when transferring fuel from the container. Dust getting into the lock might also be a problem and a tarp would just not look cool. Maybe having a bit too much of “Tim The Tool Man Taylor” in my psyche, I decided to build a box around the unit and remove the rack on top of the storage box, which was already an issue with fitting the bottom container and getting it out of the rack.
But what materiel to use for the cover? Wood is easy for me to work with, but it would have issues with weathering. I also though that additional security could be added, if a more robust materiel was used. So I looked into aluminum, some of which I could acquire from local big box hardware stores, which had the framing materiel readily available, but solid sheets, were more problematic. Upon further research, I discovered a number of local and online metal suppliers that would even cut pieces to order. One of these suppliers even had a facility not too far away, where I could order on line and pick up there or have it delivered. Their price was also about a third of that at the local hardware stores. So even with paying for shipping, rather than driving 30-45 minutes each way to pick up items, I could save money by ordering online, at least with a substantial order.
After designing the cover, deciding upon the materiel and thickness, I ordered the solid sheets cut to order and lengths of angle, which I could easily cut myself, for the box frame. The aluminum parts arrive a couple of days after ordering and I set in to working on the cover.
I made a few minor modifications to the initial design, as I went along, as I discovered that I had not thought through the details for some aspects as much as I should have. So I ended up with a couple of items that I did not use and had to acquire one additional item from the local hardware store, resulting in a bit more cost than had I gotten the proper materiel with the original order.
In the initial installation with the rack in place, I had centered the Rotopax base on the top of the storage box. In hindsight, had I had in mind this installation without the rack on the box and a cover box, moving the base towards one end of the box, would have left more room inside the box on one end for other storage, like funnels and a self venting filler tube. (The filler tubes that are inside the Rotopax containers are not self venting to meet certain (California) environmental regulations. The non-venting spouts make getting fuel out of the containers very slow. Reviewers complained about this feature and there are self venting spouts one can buy to replace the Rotopax spouts. I have one of those spouts now. The containers have to be manually vented anytime the pressure (altitude) or temperature changes significantly, so the emissions regulations, have a limited effect, anyway).
I could still modify the position of the mount and angle; but at this time, I’m leaving well enough alone. After final assembly, I noted that I can put quart size bottles of oil and/or fuel emergency additives, if desired, at each end of the containers and these fit snugly between the containers and the base angle frame.
The anti-rotation angle, seen in the above photo, could have been left out, since the covering box will be locked; but the cover’s security is not great, so in the event that some determined thief manages to remove the cover, that thief will still have to devote a significant effort into removing the containers with the angle and Rotopax lock in place.
I used stainless steel bolts, screws and locking nuts to assemble the items, so one cannot back out the fasteners without access to the inside. I did not try to make the box completely water proof, since that is not really necessary. My initial idea was to thoroughly seal the cover at the seams and around the bolt holes; but as I began the final assembly, I realized that due to the simultaneous fitting together of multiple parts and layers, sealing with any type of sealant would get really messy and my favorite silicon sealant might start to set up before I could tighten all the bolts and screws. A non-hardening butyl caulk would have worked, but that can be a sticky mess. I think there might also be sealing tapes that would work or o-rings or rubber washers, but the tape was not readily available and my design did not allow for the thickness of o-rings or rubber washers, which would deteriorate over time, anyway.
Any water that gets in should drain off of the top of the storage box (which I have made sure is sealed) onto which it is attached anyway. If I find that I want to seal the cover, I can do so later, just by sealing each seam inside the cover. My fear with this method, is that moisture will be trapped in some places and might result in other problems. I can seal from the outside, but this can be messy and I might ruin the esthetic appearance of the cover, so I will wait to see whether sealing is really necessary or not.
My original plan was to paint the entire box black to match the existing storage box; but when I removed the plastic protective sheet from the aluminum panels, prior to final assembly, I really liked the way it looked. So I just put on multiple coats of automobile wax, which I hope keeps the finish looking good. I painted the framing parts black and I think the final product looks good as it is.
I had also planned to give up the original top rack on the storage box, which had to be removed, as previously mentioned for this design. Then I realized that I might be able to put the rack onto the top of the cover box. It turned out to be a tight fit, but I was able to make this work and I now have use of the original rack.
This modification obviously reduces the already limited visibility out of the rear window, but I do have a back up camera and really good side view mirrors and cameras, so I do not think this will be a real handicap.
To keep the box in place, I used marine grade, stainless steel, adjustable latches on each end, with padlocks to keep the latches from possibly coming undone with vibration. The padlocks and latches only provide minimal security, but I’m not overly concerned about that and it is much better than a tarp.
I thought that I might need to add some cushioning materiel where the bottom edge of the cover sits on top of the storage box to prevent chaffing, but the fit is rather tight and can be made even tighter via the adjustable latches, so I do not think this will be a problem. I will monitor this area and take necessary steps to prevent metal to metal wear, if necessary.
While I can remove the cover and install it while standing on the ground and put the containers in place from ground level, locking and unlocking the Rotopax from ground level is not possible for me. I can stand on the bumper to do this, but each of these tasks is much easier, if one has a small step stool or ladder upon which to stand. I looked online for suitable items to use, but I could not find exactly what I wanted and reviews of most lightweight, compact such items were discouraging. After thinking about this, I realized that the cover box is exactly the right height and it is strong enough for me to stand upon. But I do not want to stand directly on the top, scratching the finish, and the rack could be a tripping hazard. I realized that I had plenty of left over suitable lumber from previous home projects for making a standing platform to go over the rack and I have left over aluminum angle that can be used along the edges of the wood to keep the platform in place, when it is in use. I can store the platform away, if I need to use the rack area for storage or maybe even fit small items into the space below the platform.
I made the rack fit so snugly inside the upper rack rails that it has to be forced into place and I think the fit is tight enough that the platform will not vibrate loose; but just for insurance, I used 1/2 inch pipe clamps over the center vertical rail rod. The rod is 3/8 inch, so I placed plastic tubing over it to make the clamp fit tightly. The clamp is fastened with stainless steel wing bolts and self locking nuts.
While I’m at it, I might as well throw in a couple of other handy items that I added. To clean the front windshield requires a long handle cleaner and squeegee. Most ordinary fuel stations do not have a long handle windshield cleaner. After my first road trip in this, I found a long extendable window cleaner and squeegee. I made a couple of modifications to the extension handle to allow it to be mounted behind the spare tire carrier and allowing for a quick change of window cleaner sponge and squeegee. I stow the window cleaner and squeegee in a storage compartment within the driver’s side door. Upon using this for the first time at a fueling station, I noted that the window cleaning sponge is too wide to easily fit into the typically available water box at filling stations. So I knew I needed to change out those items.
Recently, I found an extendable automobile windshield cleaner that is suitable for use, even though it is not long enough to reach the very top of my windshield. I thought I could just unscrew the combination windshield cleaner and squeegee and screw it onto the longer handle, but the threads are different! So I will live with the shorter extension handle, which I mounted behind the storage box.
To hold the handles in place I use 3/8 inch diameter hitch pins through the hitch pin tang on the storage box and/or the tire carrier and support the other end with curtain rod supports. I found the curtain rod supports in my surplus items in my garage and they are perfect for this purpose. I could have used the hitch pins that serve to lock the storage box and spare tire carrier in place, when these are swung out; but I figured I will eventually lose one of these, so now I just leave the original hitch pins in their storage holes in the bumper.
Since I will be traveling to cold climates, I also thought it best to acquire an ice scraper. I found a combination snow brush and ice scraper, which is suitable for a car, but much too short to use on my vehicle. So I modified that and the longer extension handle, so that I can put either the ice scraper (which I found that I could remove from the snow brush handle) or the snow brush onto the original longer handle.
I also acquired more self rescue items: Maxtrak boards for sand, mud, snow traction (in case of being stuck), tow strap and shackle, tow hitch receiver with shackle, jack base and wheel chock. I will be most happy not to ever have to use these, but it is good to have these along, just in case they are ever needed.
Maybe on my next trip into the wilderness, I might get some use from this most recent modification and have something more interesting to write about with photos to share. I do have one week of a two week trip fairly firmly planned with the second week still uncertain. The last week’s destination(s) will depend upon the weather.
In the spring of 2018, my oldest son and I visited Joshua Tree National Park in Southern California. We photographed in the park in the early morning, late afternoon and night. During the middle hours of the day we scouted for places to photograph and/or we hiked several of the easy to moderate trails within the park. This post is not really about hiking so much as just exploring an area along Geology Road with illustrations via iPhone photos.
One can drive much of Geology Road in an ordinary passenger vehicle; but there are portions where a high clearance 4 wheel drive vehicle is recommended.
We drove much of the easier part of the road, including some of the rougher portions, stopping to explore around one boulder area.
There were some clouds to add interest to the photos and I am again contrasting color processing and monochrome processing.
My son standing on one of the rocks in the above photo gives one a sense of scale here.
One can always find interesting features within the boulder fields. In the preceding photos, note the window near the center of the photos.
Climbing around on the boulders, my son spotted what he referred to as a “bear” rock, nestled down within an opening between other large boulders. It looks like a modern art sculpture of a bear cub to me; but maybe others see something else.
Plants seemingly find a place to grow in the most unlikely places.
This panoramic image give one a sense of the openness of the area, even though there are large boulder piles and mountain peaks apparent in this vast desert area.
Fittingly, there are a few Joshua Trees scattered around within the boulder field.
Other desert type scrubby vegetation also populates the area.
A remnant of an old tree found within the boulder field.
Even a few California Barrel Cacti are present. A couple can be seen in the background of the gnarly tree trunk.
My son had found an outcrop of quartz in the desert opposite this boulder field on an earlier visit and he recalled how to hike to it again on this visit to the park. It is quite an impressive amount of quartz.
This post is short on words and maybe a bit long in photos; but at least that makes for a fast scan of the blog.
In the spring of 2018, my oldest son and I visited Joshua Tree National Park in Southern California. We photographed in the park in the early morning, late afternoon and night. During the middle hours of the day we scouted for places to photograph and/or we hiked several of the easy to moderate trails within the park. This post is about the Lost Horse Mine Trail with illustrations via iPhone photos.
In the early history of this area there were numerous mining operations, which have since been abandoned. Remnants of equipment and/or facilities remain at some of the mine sites. Hiking trails to the abandoned mines often follow the original roads made to access the mines.
Lost Horse Mine Trail is an easy trail about a 4 mile round trip and only 480 feet elevation gain from the parking lot to the mine site. One can do a longer version, resulting in about a 6 mile hike, climbing a steeper, narrower loop from the mine back to the parking area. A long interval of the trail is visible in the photo above.
The trail is through a desert area with wide views of the local area with typical desert vegetation.
Bees were swarming around the Yucca blooms. Looking closely (maybe zoom in on the above photo) and at least one bee is visible on the left hand side of the bloom about half way down the photo. Another photo had more obvious bees in it, but I did not like that photo.
As in the first part about hiking in Joshua Tree NP, I’m including a couple of duplicate photos, except for the processing (color and monochrome). I like the monochrome treatment best here; but I would like to hear reader preferences.
The old mill is largely intact, but it is fenced off, so one cannot get close enough to get detailed photos of the milling machinery.
If one looks very closely, a hiker is visible on the trail in the above photo. The hiker is on the right at the jog in the trail, where it appears to go from the wider close up to the narrow looking distant part.
As a reminder, all the photos in this post are via an iPhone. We elected not to carry our heavy DSLR gear along, since the lighting was not optimal at the time of day that we hiked this trail.
In the spring of 2018, my oldest son and I visited Joshua Tree National Park in Southern California. We photographed in the park in the early morning, late afternoon and night. During the middle hours of the day we scouted for places to photograph and/or we hiked several of the easy to moderate trails within the park. This post is about the Contact Mine Trail with illustrations via iPhone photos.
The Contact Mine Trail is an easy one, with a gentle slope, gaining only 700 feet in just under two miles. As we hiked along the trail we began to notice a barrel type cactus with red spines.
Later research revealed that this cactus is referred to by its obvious common name “California Barrel Cactus”. As we hiked along, it became obvious that this area had many of these attractive red cactus, some with yellow blooms. My iPhone shots of blooms near the bottom of one such cactus did not turn out well, so none are posted here. I have seen other images with blooms on the top, but I do not recall seeing any with blooms on the top and most did not have blooms.
In the early history of this area there were numerous mining operations, which have since been abandoned. Remnants of equipment and or housing remain at some of the mine sites.
The Contact Mine Site has remains of old mining equipment, other rusty evidence of human activity and mine shafts that have been covered with steel cages to prevent people from entering.
Neither of us carried our heavy camera gear on this hike and I shot a number of iPhone photos just to record the scenes and the experience. I’ve edited the iPhone (jpg) images with some minor adjustments in Adobe LR, followed by edits in Nik software.
I’m including duplicates of some images to show the variations between color edits and monochrome edits.
Edits can bring out texture, contrasts and colors. I tend to like the monochrome versions better than the color versions. The monochrome versions depend mostly upon the composition, texture, contrast and shadows. While it is possible to manipulate the monochrome images in many ways to achieve artistic effects, these type edits just seem more appropriate to me, than the color software edits.
Color editing software can allow one to emulate the effects of the “Golden Light Hours” in photos taken outside these magical times of the day; but the emulation is never quite the same as the real light effects, getting into the more artistic edits of the images, about which there can be much philosophical discussion.
I’m not getting into the debate over photo editing, since that is a subjective matter. I used to be of the opinion that one could only get good images during the Golden Light Hours of sunrise or sunset and, while I prefer to photograph during those magic light hours, sometimes it is not possible to do so. Rather than pass up photographic opportunities in places, where I know I will never be during the golden light hours, I’ve reconciled to working with whatever light I have at the time, then editing to get an image that I find pleasing from an artistic point of view.
I do still feel that the color editing is more unreal than the monochrome edits; but maybe that is just because monochrome images have been in existence in photography for many more years and we study the works of the early pioneers in photography, whose work was entirely in monochrome.
Anyway, the early photographers manipulated the monochrome images in the dark room, just as modern digital photographers manipulate the images via computer software.
I would like to hear readers’ opinions on this matter as well as critiques of any of my images (composition and/or edits).
On day two in Escalante, my two sons and I went back to Peek-A-Boo Slot Canyon, this time with several cargo tie down straps to use as aids, if necessary in getting into and out of the upper portion of the canyon.
The two sons with me had some experience with rock climbing. The oldest dropped into the canyon via the steep slick rock at the upstream entrance point, leaving his backpack and camera behind on this test entrance into the canyon. He was able to immediately climb out. Now we knew that at least one of us could climb out unassisted and if necessary, he could assist the other two of us out. So we all entered the canyon to begin our exploration and photography inside it.
This entrance point was in a wide, open portion of the canyon with the very narrow, short section at the beginning of the canyon on one end of the open area and the entrance to the main portion of the canyon on the opposite end.
We looked into the short beginning section first, one at a time, since it was too small for more than one person at a time to get into and out of.
While waiting my turn to enter the first section of the slot, I killed some time shooting my shadow on the sunlit side of the canyon.
The upstream beginning of the slot is shown in the photo above. It is clear from the photo how narrow the entrance is and one can only go a short distance into this section of the slot.
We worked our way through the slot, photographing as we went along.
I do not recall meeting anyone coming from the other end of the canyon on our way down towards the main entrance; but we did begin to meet a few others as we went back up to our drop in point.
Not far from the downstream entry, there is a small arch cut into the rock, which one can see near the bottom center of the photo above.
One has to crawl through the small arch to proceed. The downstream view of the arch is the light area in the center of the photo above. The opening is quite small, so only small people can fit through it. There is some room around the side of the arch, which I recall being rather tight; but it might be possible to navigate around the arch, rather than through it. Going through the arch was definitely more fun than trying to go around it, anyway.
Just prior to the downstream entrance there are three large arches, which can be seen in the photo above. The large rocks in the foreground form one arch and the other two can be seen behind it.
Looking over the rock at the bottom of the first arch, we saw a hole with muddy water in it. We could not tell how deep the hole and water were, so we did not attempt to go further, electing to back track up the canyon to our entrance point. One can see the light at the end of the slot near the top center of the photo above.
Thinking back to the previous day here, even had we or the young Swiss man gotten up the sheer entrance wall at the main, downstream entrance, it is unlikely that any of us would have been able to continue past this point.
We encountered several people on our trip back up the canyon, having to wait at the wider places in the slot to pass each other. As we got near the upstream entrance point, we found a 50-ish year old female hiker sitting on a ledge in the canyon wall. She had injured her knee along the way. Those that we passed in the canyon were her family members, whom she had told to go ahead and get her on the way out. She had only a small, almost empty, water bottle, so we first filled her bottle with water from one of our water reservoirs. Then, thinking it was not a good idea to leave her there by herself, we offered to help her get back to the entrance point, at least. She could put weight on her knee, but had to be careful not to let it bend sideways, as it would give way. I let her lean on me as we slowly worked our way back to the entrance. I was a bit concerned about supporting her, as she was not a small (not obese, but hefty) woman.
Upon arriving at the entrance, we were considering how we could get her out of the canyon and were in the process of tying the cargo straps together, when another hiker came up from the main entrance direction. He told us he had a friend, a medic with technical climbing gear, back down the canyon, if we wanted to ask him for help. Of course, we did. So the hiker went back into the slot and returned with his friend. At some point the injured woman’s family members returned, as well.
The medic examined the knee and recognized the problem. The injured woman was a large animal veterinarian from upstate New York and she knew quite a bit about anatomy and what was wrong with her knee, with which the medic agreed. The medic also knew exactly how to rig up the ropes to make a sling for getting her out of the canyon. He and others then worked the rope to pull her up the steep slope of the canyon, while others went along by her to help and make sure she did not slip back.
Once on the canyon bank, my oldest son used paracord from his emergency bracelet to tie a portion of a tripod leg to the side of the injured vet’s leg to help keep the knee from bending sideways. She was able to use the remainder of the tripod as a walking stick. She and her family began the hike out, while we stayed behind, having a snack before we started back. We quickly caught up with the injured woman and her party, where they had stopped to rest for a few minutes.
We hiked ahead, thinking it was going to be a slow, arduous hike for the injured woman, especially when they got to the steep, sandy slope followed by the slick rock climb back to the parking area.
On our way back along Hole In The Rock Road, we passed an SUV that was upside down just off of the roadway. There were young boys, maybe college age, standing around and a sheriff’s deputy in his vehicle. Fortunately, no one seemed injured. We speculate that they were driving too fast on the very washboarded road and lost control of their vehicle, sliding off to the side and flipping. We had noted that one had to drive slowly or the bouncing caused by the washboarding would cause a vehicle to drift.
In the late afternoon, we returned along this roadway to an area called Devil’s Garden, where we would shoot at sunset and then star trail photos after dark.
As we were scouting around the area, I heard someone call, “Hey, guys”. I initially thought I had walked into someone’s photo composition and looking around, I spotted the large animal veterinarian. She was wearing a knee brace and walking with crutches. We were happy to see that she had gotten back from her hike and surprised to see her out again. She told us she had been telling everyone about how we came along and helped her out of the slot canyon.
I know this has been a long post, but I hope that readers will glean some safety tips here, in addition to photographic tips for photographing in this area.
There is much more to see in this area (we never got to Zebra Slot or to the end of Hole In The Rock Road), so I expect I will return one day.
On our last day near Escalante, as we were leaving, we hiked several miles along a sandy creek to a waterfall. I’m including one photo of that fall here.
This will be the last post for this year. I wish and hope that you all have a happy holiday season.
Since, I do not have anything from a recent journey, I am reaching back into my mental and photographic archives for this post. I have also revised the editing of the photos contained here. The original edits were mostly very conservative. Now that I have more time and getting more comfortable with advanced photo editing, I think I am able to extract better images from some of the original raw files that I initially ignored, considering them unworthy of sharing.
In March, 2014 two of my sons and I traveled to Escalante, Utah to explore and photograph in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. We had a couple of interesting events associated with our hikes in two of the well known and popular slot canyons.
On Monday, March 24 our first destinations were Peek-A-Boo and Spooky Slot Canyons which feed into the Dry Fork of Coyote Gulch. We arrived at the parking area, after traveling down the very washboarded Hole In The Rock Road and a heavily rutted side road with signage recommending high clearance and preferably 4-wheel drive vehicles. We were in a high clearance Jeep, so no problem for us. As we were gathering our gear from the Jeep, a rather low clearance, smallish crossover type vehicle, that we had passed on Hole In The Rock Road, pulled into the lot. We were surprised that anyone in that type vehicle would travel the rutted, dirt road, especially after seeing the warning signs; but the road was not wet or muddy, at least, so a careful driver could navigate it. We met the driver, a young Swiss man, at the trail head marker and chatted with him. He told us that his rental vehicle was 4-wheel drive, but I expect it was the more typical All Wheel Drive rental vehicle.
As we all started the hike, which began on a slick rock slope, then transitioned to a steep, sandy slope down into the dry wash, we noted that the young Swiss man, who was using two hiking canes, had a physical handicap that did not allow him normal use of his legs. Consequently, we soon outpaced him.
We arrived at the entrance to Peek-A-Boo slot and, just as one of our references describe, there was a shallow pool of water in front of a sheer drop off from the slot canyon. Someone had put a few rocks across the pool, stacked a few at the base of the sheer wall and leaned a small tree trunk or maybe a large tree branch against the wall as aids for climbing the sheer wall. There were also a few shallow toe holds cut into the sheer face of the rock wall. After some consideration, we decided that with all of our gear, it would not be wise to attempt this entrance to the canyon. We knew, from our reference for this hike, that one could hike up slope in the general direction from which the canyon came and eventually find a place to drop down into the canyon from above. So we began hiking up away from the dry wash. We were not always able to stick close to the canyon, but we were able to hike back in the direction of the slot and eventually found an entrance point at the upstream start of the canyon. However, we were not sure that we would be able to climb back out at this point and we had no ropes with us. We had cargo tie down straps back in our motel room, so we decided that the safest plan was to come back the next day with a few of those straps, which we could tie together and use, if necessary.
We hiked back to the dry wash on our way to the next slot, known as Spooky. As we were passing the entrance to Peek-A-Boo, we were incredibly surprised to see that the young Swiss man, with his hiking canes, camera, tripod and day pack, had managed to ascend the sheer wall to the first level. (There were two or three levels on the wall, where one could stand). We were concerned that the young man might injury himself and we tried to talk him into coming down. He insisted that he had to go ahead, so we stayed there to make sure that he got up safely. As he tried to lift his leg to put his foot into the next foot hold, it became obvious that he was physically unable to raise his leg sufficiently to continue. He then realized that he could not go on, but he seemed afraid of getting down from his perch. We assured him that we would help him down. He passed his gear down to us, asking us to please be careful with his camera. My oldest son was quite helpful guiding his feet into the foot holds, while we were all making sure he did not fall. He was obviously concerned about his safety during his descent and expressed his gratitude to us, when he was safely back in the wash.
We suggested that he walk along with us to Spooky. He agreed, but said he would be slow and we assured him that we would stay with him.
We arrive at Spooky after about a half mile of walking in the wash. Spooky is a very narrow slot, frequently requiring one to walk sideways with arms outreached with backpack in one hand and tripod with camera in the other hand. The walls are also rough and abrasive, which wore holes in our backpacks as these were pulled through the narrow passage. I am not a big person and both my chest and back frequently scrapped against the walls. Anyone much larger than me would not be able to squeeze through this slot.
The best time for photography in the slots is when the sun is high enough for sunlight to penetrate into the dark, narrow canyon. Light reflecting off of the sandstone walls can create interesting color, highlighting the texture of the rock.
The low light within the canyon can also require larger apertures, slow shutter speeds and maybe even multiple exposures for creating HDR images.
Eventually, the slot opened up into a wide, sandy wash, which we used to walk back to the main trail. The young Swiss man took off across country in the opposite direction. He had a GPS and we never heard of anyone going missing here during our visit, so I am assuming he got back safely.
(On a subsequent trip in the hot summer, by two of my sons, they encountered a woman and her children in the parking lot, asking them to keep an eye out for her husband. They had been hiking and got disoriented. The husband hiked up to a higher elevation to try to see the way out and disappeared. He eventually perished, before he could be found. The environment here is deadly for those not sufficiently prepared).
One does not want to be in one of these slots, when there is any rain in the area. Flash floods through these canyons will be deadly for anyone in these canyons during one.
These canyons are beautiful and a joy to hike through, just make sure to use care in getting here. Carry plenty of water, snacks, wear proper clothing and either know the area well or carry a GPS and/or map and compass.
The rough texture of the canyon walls is clearly visible in the above photo.
And yet, some portions of the walls are rather smooth as shown in the above photo.
The sandstone looks purplish in low light and reddish in brighter light.
The narrowness of most of the route is obvious in the above photo, which is just a slightly different angle of the same section as in the previous photo.
It is amazing how flowing water over many years has carved and sculpted the rock walls of these amazingly beautiful canyons.
Part II of this blog will relate yet another significant experience involving a hiker in distress in our subsequent trip to Peek-A-Boo Slot on the following day. So stay tuned for more in a week or so.
This post goes back a few years and some of you may have heard this story before. My first visit to Big Bend National Park remains one of the most memorable, though unsuccessful, trips that I have taken, so I’m revisiting it here, since I will not have anything new to blog about for awhile.
This trip to Big Bend was supposed to cover a total of 10 days (Dec 30 – Jan 8), two for travel and the rest in the park; but our plans went considerably awry due to circumstances beyond our control. It was a bit like those comedy vacation movies you have probably all seen.
This is a bit of a long story, so I apologize in advance and will understand, if you elect not to read all the details.
When we (myself and three of my four sons) planned the trip, there were no available rooms in the lodge in the park until Jan 4; but we were able to get lodging in Terlinqua Dec. 30 to Jan 4 and the park lodge from Jan 4 until Jan 8.
A winter storm was forecast for the initial day of our trip and we drove through rain, freezing weather, sleet and snow showers on the way to Terlingua. Ice accumulated on the vehicle and windshield, but the roadways did not ice over during our journey. Fortunately, we got into Terlingua, prior to the really bad freezing rain and icy road conditions over most of southwest Texas that day and night.
For the best photography, we wanted good early morning and late day light. Instead, we got heavily overcast skies for most of our useable time there. Consequently, we spent the first day Dec. 31, driving around the park and checking out the area in general. We did hike about .8 miles into Santa Elena Canyon and hoped to come back when the weather cleared. I made a few shots in the canyon, but they were just blah.
The evening of Dec. 31, we had dinner in a local restaurant/bar and watched a football bowl game (Oregon beat Florida State to our enjoyment). When we got in our vehicle, after dinner, (a 2014 Nissan Rogue, that one of my sons, who was supposed to go with us, but backed out due to his business considerations, had let us use), we had low air pressure indications in one tire. The tires were run flat, so there was no spare. We had sufficient air to drive the short distance back to the motel. The next morning (Jan 1) the tire was completely flat. We were able to inflate the tire, using our little air compressor and we could drive the vehicle; but we were afraid to get far away from the motel for fear of getting stranded somewhere and no way to call for help (there is very scant and weak cell phone coverage in the area). Being New Years Day, there was no way to get the tire repaired that day and there was only one place in Terlingua to fix the tire. I was at that place before it opened the morning of Jan 2 and got the tire repaired; although they could not reset the low tire indicator.
While we were considering our options for that day, the power went out, due to a truck reportedly taking out numerous power poles somewhere to the north of us. The local motel restaurant/gas station employed a large portable generator to continue operating, so we could at least eat; but since the roads were iced over north of us, no gasoline deliveries were being made. The one and only gas station in Terlingua at our motel ran out of gas. We were able to get gas at one of the two stations in the park that had a generator, shortly before it ran out of gas. Some portions of the roads in the park were icy, requiring great care driving on them.
It is a long drive into and out of the park, so by the time we got back to our lodging in Terlingua, our gas level was down a bit. We heard there was gas at a small store in Lajitas, 17 miles from Terlingua, so we drove over there to top off our tank, arriving there just before the store closed. They were also running out of gas; but we were able to top off our tank.
With gasoline in short supply and uncertainty on when delivery of additional supplies would resume, we were reluctant to get out and about. So we hung around our lodging, hoping to get updates on road conditions, fuel deliveries and weighing our options.
{I had purchased the last 8-D cell Coleman lantern with detachable, rechargeable lights on it and batteries in the motel store, so we had light for our room. The detachable LED lights’ batteries were charged via the 8 D cell batteries, so we could detach one ofthose smaller lights to take into the bathroom. I now take this lantern with me in the Sportsmobile, just in case I need it, and maintain its batteries here in case of a power outage in our home}.
On Saturday, Jan 3, our motel was running out of water, due to no power for the well pump. The motel managers were asking all that had enough gas to get to Alpine to leave. The local cell phone tower was out and the local phone lines did not work, so no one could call anywhere to check on anything. We decided to go to the park lodge and check on conditions there. We had already been there on our trip into the park to get gas and knew they had no power; but we did not know what their water situation was. The park lodge had rooms available, due to cancellations, and they had water (and hot water), so we decided to stay there.
{An aside about the hot water system in the park lodge: Before we decided to stay, I asked at the lodge check in desk about hot water for showers. No one there had any idea about what kind of water heating system they had or whether they even had hot water. They said they would find out, but we decided to stay anyway, not having any other good choice, other than to drive somewhere else. We never got an answer to our question from the front desk, but we had hot water, so apparently they had gas water heaters}.
The lodge restaurant had no power, were not getting food deliveries due to road conditions, but they were operating with a reduced menu, so we were able to eat.
There is a trail from the lodge area that follows a drainage down to a place referred to as “The Window”, where there is a drop off into the valley below and a view through the canyon window of the valley. We only ventured a short distance along that trail, shooting a few moon light photos that night.
The next day, Sunday, Jan. 4, the report had not changed. No one really knew when gasoline would arrive and power was not expected to be restored until Tuesday. We might have been able to do a bit in a limited area around the lodge; but we were reluctant to use our gasoline to get around in the park, so we decided that since we had more than enough gas to get to Fort Stockton, that it was worth the risk to try to make it there. We did not really know what the conditions were in Fort Stockton. We had heard mixed reports about power, gasoline availability and road conditions.
We passed through Marathon, which had no power and hence no gasoline. We passed several stations in Fort Stockton that had no gas, began to worry, but we found a convenience store station with gas. We filled up and were on our way, thinking we would be back in Rockwall that day.
A few miles (about 30, I think) north of Fort Stockton on route 18, as I was driving, the auto engine died. I coasted off of the roadway and tried to restart the engine with no success. My older son, who had pumped the gas, began to worry that he might have put the wrong gasoline or even diesel in the engine. Fortunately, we had cell service (earlier portions of this road did not) so I called AAA and learned that the nearest place they could find that had an auto shop that could service our vehicle was in Midland/Odessa, 60+ miles away and the nearest tow services they had were also in Midland/Odessa. Since there was a Nissan dealer in Odessa, I arranged to have the vehicle towed there. I was also able to find a motel a couple of blocks down the street from the dealer and was able to get a room reserved there. There were three of us and normally, the tow trucks have room for only two passengers; but AAA checked with the tow service and they said they could accommodate all of us, since we did not have a child seat to deal with.
The tow truck arrived a couple of hours after the initial call to AAA. Needless, to say the front seat of the tow truck was a bit crowded with the driver plus the three of us. I let the kids use the two available passenger seat belts and I sat forward on the edge of the seat with no seat belt, leaning on the dash. The driver told us to not bother with the seat belts, saying “We never use those”, and he was not using one. He was also doing paper work, texting and other things while driving. My older son later told me he was sure we were going to die in that truck.
As we neared Odessa, my phone buzzed. I check it and had a recorded message from the reservation system for the lodge in Big Bend, informing me they were canceling my reservation due to weather conditions, lack of power, etc. No doubt that message had gone out to my phone, when I had no service and I was receiving it much too late, when it no longer mattered.
The tow truck driver stopped by the motel and let us unload our luggage, then I rode with the driver to the dealership. Due to ice on the drive in front of the service entrance, it was a chore to unload the vehicle and I had to help the driver work the vehicle off of the flatbed. Of course, being Sunday the dealership was not open. I filled out the drop off form, etc. I had planned to walk back to the motel; but the tow truck driver was going back that way, so he dropped me off.
We walked a few blocks from the motel to a bar/restaurant, had a late lunch and watched an NFL playoff game. Back at the motel, we settled in for the night. I began to have the initial indications of getting a cold that Sunday afternoon; but I initially though it was just a dry cough from the cold weather. The cough and sinus drainage was enough that I had considerable trouble sleeping. My two kids like it quite, when they sleep and were using ear plugs. My older son likes it dark, so he was wearing an eye mask, too.
Sometime between 11:00PM and midnight, the room entry way light came on. Turning over, I saw someone in a dark coat leaving the room. I could see one son still in bed, so I though my older son might have gone to the lobby for a snack or something to drink. I lay in bed for a few minutes, but being a little concerned, I got up, went to the bathroom and sipped warm water to sooth my throat. When I came out, I saw that both of my sons were still sleeping. I thought maybe the older one had come back, while I was in the bathroom. I noted that the safety latch on the door was not closed, so I closed it. Just to be sure, I looked around and did not see anything missing (we had a considerable quantity of camera gear about the room). I turned out the light and went back to bed. Shortly afterwards the room phone rang, waking the two kids. I fumbled in the dark for the phone; but did not get to it in time. Since the kids were awake, I told them what I had seen. They were sure that I had dreamed it and were sure the light had not come on, until I turned it on after the phone range. The phone rang again as we were talking and it was the front desk, apologizing for calling, but asking if there were any belonging in the room when we moved in. I told them there weren’t anyone else’s belonging in the room and I reported that someone had just been in my room. They confirmed that, telling me that someone from the electric power transmission repair company had been checked into our room. I did not really understand how this was possible and did not get more details until the next morning.
I stopped at the front desk before I went out to the Nissan dealership early Monday morning. The night person who had called in the middle of the night was still there and was briefing the day shift about what had happened. Apparently, the Oncor repair person had a room there with his belonging in it and was beingreassigned to another room, where his belongings were to be moved. Apparently, he had been given our room number by the crew changing his room assignment, then we were given that room, when we checked in. The day shift did not pass the correct information to the night shift, which had no clue into which room his belonging had been moved and apparently took his word for the room that he was to be assigned to, not checking to see that that room was already taken. When the Oncor person came in, he was given new key cards to our room, which wiped out our key cards. I got new keys while at the desk. I, also, explained our situation to the front desk people, telling them that we might need the room for a few days. I was assured that that was not a problem.
I walked to the Nissan dealership to be there at opening time, to find that it was still locked up and no one around. I stood outside in the cold, until someone finally showed up late to open the dealership. I got to, at least, talk to the master technician, who opened the place, about the vehicle symptoms and, explaining our situation, asked that he expedite the repair, if possible. I asked that he call me as soon as possible after the diagnosis, since we needed to make a decision about our motel situation. Getting no call prior to the motel check out time, I called and was informed that the fuel pump was the culprit and they would have to order it; but at least the part was covered under the warranty. They thought they might get it on Tuesday; but were not sure, because of the weather issues. At least we had a place to stay that night.
An hour before check out time on Tuesday morning, I began calling the Nissan dealership to get an update. I had to leave a message with the phone receptionist, who promised a call back. Thirty minutes later, having received no return call, I called again, was put on hold and after more than 10 minutes on hold, I hung up and called again. It took several renditions to finally get to talk to someone, who knew anything. The fuel pump had arrived and the best we could get out of them was that the repair would be completed by 6pm. Just to be sure, that we would still have a room that night, I called the front desk to make sure our stay was still extended. The very same person who told me that he would extend the room for three days, told me they had no capacity for extending our stay. They, at least, agreed to call around to help us find another room. There were other motels very nearby, but none of those had rooms available. We walked to the dealership to try to get a better idea of when the vehicle would actually be ready and learned it would be ready around 3pm. So we decided that was early enough to safely (we were still concerned about road icing late at night) drive home that day.
To end of a long story, we made it back home safely around 9:45PM.
We did see much of the park from the roadways. There was one stretch of the basin road with heavy frost cover, from the mist hanging over it, that was absolutely beautiful.
Please remember to always fasten the safety latch on your public lodging room.
But wait, there is more. Some weeks later, prior to going on another trip, I could not find my Nikon 24-70mm lens. I knew I had loaned it to one of my sons and I knew he had returned it. I thought maybe I had loaned it to another one, but they all confirmed that they did not have the lens. I thought that it might turn up somewhere. Months went by and I had not found it. Finally, resolved to having lost the lens, I purchased the newer version of that lens, which cost $1000 more than the one that I lost and which I had only purchased less than two year prior. A few weeks later, I was informed by the son whose vehicle we had used for the Big Bend trip, that he had found my lens in an inconspicuous place in his vehicle! (He had checked his vehicle for the lens, after I reported it missing and not found it). Now having two Nikon 24-70mm lens, I gifted the older one to one of my sons, who also shoots with Nikon cameras. So at least he got a positive outcome to this trip. (His manager, overhearing him tell a colleague about this trip, told him “I’m giving you your vacation days back”).