Bisti – May 2019 – Arrival and Day 1 Scouting – Part 1

After having scouted some of the northern part of the Bisti Wilderness in New Mexico during my March 2019 visit, but not having time during that visit to photograph in that portion of Bisti, I wanted to go back and spend more time on the north end and I wanted to go before the hot weather of summer set in.  For various reasons, I had delayed going back, but I finally set out in late May.  Since I was eager to get there, knowing that leaving on a Friday would maybe present problems with finding a suitable and available stop over place and staying over on a Friday would result in arriving on a weekend, which tends to be a busy time for visitors, I decided to drive straight through (about a 12.5 hour drive, according to mapping software).  With stops for fuel, food and to take time to walk around at rest breaks, I figured it would take 14-15 hours to get to Bisti.  I had intended to leave home around 7AM and anticipated arriving at Bisti around 9-10PM and with total darkness not arriving before about 9PM, I would not have to drive for very long in the dark.  However, as usual, I got away from home a little latter than the plan, so I arrived closer to 10PM than 9PM and it was already totally dark, when I arrived at the dirt road entry to the unofficial North Bisti parking area.

As I pulled off of NM 371 in total darkness, the dirt road looked different than I remembered.  I had not been there in total darkness previously.  Thinking more light would let me verify my location, I switched on both the upper and lower LED light bars, which are really bright.  Even with that much light, initially I could not be sure that I was in the right place and I did not want to drive into the wrong area, so I consulted my iPhone map, which seemed to confirm that I was in the correct location.  Nevertheless, I proceeded with caution.  As I drove along, I began to feel more confident, as I recognized features from the March visit here.

As I turned past the bluff behind which was the large, open parking area, I saw a truck and an RV trailer in the distance.  Not wanting to be a nuisance with my bright lights, I stopped at the edge of the parking area and switched off the LED light bars, made sure the regular vehicle lights were in low beam, then parked a respectable distance from the RV and truck.  (For some reason, people coming into such areas like to park adjacent to others, even when there is much space available).

I walked around my vehicle with a flashlight to verify that there was no problem with my parking area.  I noted how dark it was there and I marveled at the infinitely many stars in the sky.  Seeing a campfire near the RV, I walked over to say hello and to be sure whoever were there were satisfied that I had not parked too close to their camp.  (I must have been about 30 or so yards away, but I had plenty of space to move away more).  As I approached their campfire, hailing whoever was there, and I got close enough, I saw one person sitting by the campfire, then another came out of the truck or trailer.  The one by the campfire was a youngish man from Denver and the other an older man from Oregon.  They confirmed that they had no problem with where I parked, then the older one said, “That is quite the light arrangement you have”.  To which the younger one added, “I thought I was being abducted by aliens”.  So it is good that I turned the lights off, when I did, rather than leaving them on until I parked!

I saw them again from a distance in the morning, but I never visited with them again, since they left sometime the next day, while I was out in the Wilderness.

My original plan for the first morning was to go out for sunrise photos, but since I was getting to bed after 11PM, had slept only 5-6 hours the night before, I would not get more than 5 hours sleep this night, if I got up early for sunrise and I had no definite route planned to get to a destination for sunrise, I decided it best to sleep in and scout the area first, rather than wander around in the early morning darkness.

So the first morning, after coffee and breakfast, I installed the solar panels, then went scouting, adding more GPS waypoints and shooting iPhone scouting photos. This is a really remarkable place to explore.  There seems to be no end to interesting features, geology and photographic opportunities.

Sportsmobile in the Bisti North Parking Lot
The “unofficial” north Bisti parking area.  iPhone photo.

As I was installing the solar panels, a passenger type van with a sign on the side that I could not make out, passed by and parked near the corner of the fence line at the border of the Bisti wilderness area.  A number of young people got out and I assumed it might be a geological field trip, maybe from a university.  I anticipated encountering that group later, during my scouting of the area, but I never saw them again and the van was gone when I returned from my scouting walk about.

Twin Peaks
Petrified tree stump with twin peaks landmark in the background. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

As I returned from scouting the area, I frequently stopped to look around and behind me to get a feel of the area and to make mental notes of landmarks.  I did not encounter anyone during my walk about, but at one point, I saw a group of people on an elevated area in the distance.  I assumed that they must have come from the official south parking area, which is the most popular place for visitors.

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Rock Ridge Landmark. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe LR and DxO Nik Color Efex Pro 4.

This rock ridge image illustrates the “leading line” technique in photography, with the line of rocks leading the eye through the photograph.  (Click on the photo to view on Flickr).

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Some of numerous hoodoos that are found along Bisti canyon walls. iPhone photo.
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A wing shaped hoodoo along a Bisti canyon wall. iPhone photo.
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An interesting turtle like hoodoo in a Bisti Canyon.  iPhone photo.
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A finger like hoodoo along a Bisti canyon wall.  iPhone photo.
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Odd shape ( a bird like one?) hoodoos along a Bisti canyon wall.  iPhone photo.
Headless Hoodoos with a Native American house in far background. The house makes a good navigation landmark, which can be seen from far away.  iPhone photo.

I was alone in the parking area, much of the day, but others began to arrive in the afternoon, going out and returning well before sunset.  I noted some were crossing the fence line near the corner and walking directly into the wilderness, rather than going to the south end of the parking area, where there was no fence at a drainage crossing, which I had been using.  When I saw one such group returning to their vehicle in the afternoon, I approached them and asked about the route they were taking into Bisti.  They assured me it was a good direct route with easy crossings of the deep drainage.  They were all from a local mission and offered much advise on the area, including where to get water locally, rather than driving 45 miles into Farmington.  One of them was a Navaho, but he did not look like a Native American, and he had lived in the area for 37+ years.

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Wing like Bisti hoodoos, iPhone photo.

Crossing the fence line near where I parked would save a quarter mile (one way) walk across the parking area and maybe another 1/4 to 1/2 mile (one way) of walking otherwise.  I found that walking directly east along the fence line led to a very easy place to get into the drainage, then I only had to walk a few yards along the drainage to an easy exit.  So I am very glad that I watched and learned from other local visitors.

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Large Bisti wing like Hoodoos.  iPhone photo.
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Bisti hoodoo with a multi-colored layered base.  (Click on the photo to view on Flickr).

I shot so many photos during this scouting session that I will break this post into multiples with more frequent posts.  Hopefully, the frequency of these posts will not be too much for you.

Ken