Zapata Falls, March 2021

Even though we had reserved our Bandelier campsites for a couple of more days, we decided to journey north to the Great Sand Dunes of Colorado, since we were not satisfied with the photographic opportunities in Bandelier at this time.

The campground in the Great Sand Dunes National Park is not open in the winter, but there is a decommissioned Colorado State Park about 20-30 minutes west of the Great Sand Dunes.  At the time we were here, this decommissioned park was managed by Colorado’s Game and Fishing agency.  To stay in the park, one had to have a Colorado fishing license.  So we each purchased a two day fishing license at a local convenience store, which allowed us to stay two nights.  Other than the cost of the license, which for an out of stater was still less than the typical fee to enter and stay at a Colorado State Park, there was no other fee to stay in this facility and there were still electric hook ups.  Having external electric power was great, since the night time temperatures were in the teens (degF).

The requirement to have a fishing license to stay in these wildlife and fishing areas were already set to change in May.  Now one can purchase an inexpensive yearly pass that will allow one to stay in such places.

Our first outing, the afternoon of our arrival, in this area was to Zapata Falls, which is a few miles outside the National Park.  We had visited these falls last summer, but it was crowded and many visitors were not wearing masks in close proximity to each other in the confined area near the falls.  So we were not able to get close to the falls, which are not visible from a distance.

During the winter, there are still visitors, but many fewer.  The drive from the paved road is rocky and rough and there was construction work along this route, when we were there.

At the end of the access road, one has to hike about 3/4 mile to the falls.  The trail is wide and rocky and slightly uphill most of the way.  It is much more pleasant hiking this trail in cold weather than in the heat of summer.  There were patches of icy snow pack on the trail, so it was occasionally slippery, requiring prudent care while walking.

The falls are contained in a narrow canyon and one has to walk in the stream to view the falls.  The stream is usually shallow, so even in the summer it is not to difficult to walk, but the rocks can be slippery.

In the winter the stream and fall freeze over on the surface, requiring one to walk on very slippery ice.  As it turns out I had ice cleats for my hiking shoes, that I had purchased a couple of years ago for a winter visit to Bandelier National Monument, where I was expecting icy trails; but there was no ice there and I had never used the cleats.  Today I got to use them and they really made it much easier to walk on the ice.  While others were slipping and sliding on the ice, we were nonchalantly walking around on the ice.  My son, being from snowy and icy Colorado, had ice cleats, too.

Setting up.

One can see how narrow the canyon is in the photo above.  The main portion of the falls are actually around the bend.  In the summer one might get a little closer to the falls, getting wet with the spray.  With the ice cover on the stream, it was not possible to safely get much closer and still be able to stand on the ice with a tripod and camera.

Getting the shot. Frozen Zapata Falls and Stream.
A downstream view from Zapata Falls.

A view downstream from near the falls, shows an exaggerated narrowness of the canyon from my point of view.  There were thinner icy covered areas of the stream, requiring care in where one stepped.  Wet feet here would be uncomfortably cold.

Frozen Zapata Falls and Stream
Frozen Zapata Falls

Next stop the Great Sand Dunes.

Until then,

Ken