Glacier National Park – Summer 2009

Since the COVID-19 pandemic is preventing me from getting out, I am resorting to blogging about events from years ago.  I have selected a 2009 visit to Glacier National Park in Montana for this post.  I accompanied two of my sons on this trip.

There are two entrances to Glacier NP, one on the west side and one on the east.  Having never been here before, we did not know which side would be best.  We selected the west entrance, since there were more choices of lodgings in West Glacier that were just outside the west entrance.

Even though our lodging facility was old, it had its advantages, with separate cabin like units.  Our unit had two bedrooms with three beds and a small kitchen.

The big disadvantage to staying outside the park is the distance (as much as 50 miles +/-) one has to travel to get to sites within this really large park.  Even staying in one of the lodges within the park would still involve considerable travel time to some locations. There was also construction on the main road, Going to the Sun Road, in the park.  The construction was scheduled for night work to minimize travel disruption, with hours posted for closing and reopening the road.  However, the actual work sometimes ran beyond the posted opening time, which delayed us early one morning, resulting in our not getting to our destination in time for our planned sunrise shoot.

The unplanned delay at the road construction point resulted in an interesting experience.  We were not the only early risers there waiting for the road to reopen.  Another photographer came over our vehicle and chatted with us.  He eventually gave up waiting and turned around to go somewhere else.  We asked the worker with the stop sign about the reopening time, expressing our disappointment that the posted reopen time was being delayed, explaining that we were photographers trying to get to a location before sunrise.  That worker talked to the site supervisor, came back to tell us they would open a detour around the work for us within a few minutes and they did.  So maybe the next time you are held up at a road construction site, you might try claiming to be an important photographer on a critical time schedule!

In the summer the days are long with early morning sunrise and late evening sunsets.  We typically had to arise around 2:30 – 3:00 AM to get to our sunrise destinations.  We hiked numerous trails during the midday hours, then were out late getting sunset shots, returning to our lodging around 11PM.  So one can easily do the math and see that we only got a few hours of sleep each day.  After a few days of this we were so exhausted, that upon trying to arise very early one morning, we all decided that we just could not continue at that pace and decided to sleep in one morning.

The trails within the park are through some amazing scenery.  Most are not too strenuous, but any trudging uphill while carrying a load can be tough, especially for one 60+ years of age and accoustomed to walking on flat land at sea level.  We hiked a total of 60+/- miles over the coarse of about a week here.  Since there are many bears in this park and many bear sightings had been reported by hikers, we carried bear spray, tried to stay fairly close together and make noise to alert any nearby animals of our presence.  We were told that bears tend to move away from human noises and we hoped that was true.  We did not encounter or even see any bears on any of our hikes, so either they were not nearby or we scared them away.

I did walk by a very large female moose on one hike through a wooded area and would not even have seen it had not one of my sons alerted me to its presence, only a few feet from us.

We saw numerous mountain goats, which seem mostly used to human presence, not running away from either vehicles or foot traffic.

I was much more of a novice photographer back then, so many of my photos from this trip are not up to my current standards and I do not have any raw digital images from these early years to improve via editing.  The images referenced here are mostly unimproved jpeg images as they came out of the camera.  And one will have to follow the links to view them on my Flickr page.

I cannot recall all of the trails that we traveled, but I’ll reference a few with photographs.

Avalanche Gorge

The trail along Avalanche Gorge is mostly through a wooded area along a lovely, cascading creek.  This trail is in the Lake McDonald area in the western part of the park.

The hike to Virginia Falls is in the St. Mary area of the park towards the eastern side.

Virginia Creek Cascades

Virginia Creek Cascades2

Virginia Creek Cascades3

I recall a humorous encounter along the trail past the Virginia Creek cascades.  The trail was mostly an easy one and there was a group of teenagers hiking it.  As we (all considerably well beyond our teenage years) rapidly overtook a couple of the female teenagers, they moved over for us to pass, commenting that they were getting out of our way, since they saw we were photographers and we were able to move much faster than they could, too.  We noted that carrying camera gear with tripods got hikers’ attention and they tended to yield to us.  I guess this is one benefit to lugging that heavy equipment on a trail hike.

Virginia Falls

Virginia Falls2

Running Eagle Falls

Running Eagle Falls is on the west side of the park in the Two Medicine area.  When the water level in the stream feeding the falls is high, Running Eagle Falls is a two level falls with water going over two levels.  The second level is at the top of the rock face above the falls seen in the Running Eagle Falls image.

There are numerous falls and cascades that can be viewed just by driving along the Going to the Sun Road.

Haystack Creek

Haystack Creek2

These views of Haystack Creek are from the Going to the Sun Road, where the roadway crosses over the creek.

Lunch Creek

It was a foggy, overcast day at Lunch Creek.  This view is from the Going to the Sun Road.

Hidden Lake

Hidden Lake Trail is near the Logan Pass Visitor Center.

Grinnell Glacier Trail is in the Many Glacier Valley, with seemingly unending scenic views.

Grinnell Glacier Trail1

Grinnell Glacier Trail2

Grinnell Glacier Trail3

Grinnell Glacier Trail4

Grinnell Falls

Grinnell Glacier

A short 1 mile trail leads to Apikuni Falls in Many Glacier Valley, but the trail is very steep, requiring considerable effort to hike up to the falls.

Apikuni Falls

There are lovely cascades along Barring Creek trail in St. Mary Valley.

Barring Creek1

Barring Creek2

At Barring Falls, I found a way to get onto a ledge below a rock overhang to get this view of the falls.  One can see by the wetness on the rocks in the foreground that the spray from the falls reached this location.

Barring Falls

Barring Falls2

After shooting at the ledge, my oldest son took my place there.  The second image of the falls shows the ledge location.

The trail to Iceberg Lake and Ptarmigan Falls are in the Many Glacier Valley.

Iceberg Lake

Ptarmigan Falls

I had to stand on a steep slope just above the falls to get this shot of Ptarmigan Falls.  There was no (safe) way to get below the falls and even the steep slope upon which I stood was precarious.

Ptarmigan Creek Cascade

One of the prettiest hikes in the park is the Highline Trail in the St. Mary area.  It is also a long, almost 12 miles, hike oneway and  is best done as a shuttle hike.  Since we only had one vehicle, when we arrived back at the Going to the Sun Road at The Loop, we either had to hike a long way along the road or hitch a ride to our vehicle.  Since we were all tired from the trail hike, we elected not to walk the roadway.  Instead, my oldest son got a ride with other hikers to his vehicle.

This was an epic trip for me, yet there are many portions of this large park that I have not visited and this post does not cover all that we experienced in this stunningly beautiful national park.

Until next time and stay well and safe,

Ken

 

 

 

 

The Spring Photography Trip That Wasn’t

Happy Earth Day!

Early this year, my oldest son and I made plans for a late March trip into Arizona.  We were initially planning to spend several days in Tuba City, Arizona, photographing at Coal Mine Canyon and exploring the surrounding area.  Then we would travel to Marble Canyon, Arizona and spend several days there, traveling miles of BLM dirt roads to get to locations along the canyon.

I did considerable research via online maps and Google Earth, picking out potential places for photography.  A number of the places that I found promising near Marble Canyon were on Navaho Reservation land.  Knowing that permits might be necessary to access some of these areas, I began looking into permits for those areas and I found that those areas were closed by the Navaho Nation, due to the lack of respect shown to the area and failure to abide by access requirements by previous visitors.  While it would be possible to join an official Navaho tour for some areas, those tours are too restrictive for our purposes.  So I began to look into non-Navaho Reservation areas to visit and photograph.

During this process, my son called to inform me that he had heard from a friend that Tuba City had a very high crime rate and was not safe.  His friend had encountered problems there while stoping at a filling station and had to leave very quickly.  My son researched his friends claim about the high crime rate in Tuba City and verified the validity of that report.  I already had lodging reservations in Tuba City that I canceled and began looking into alternatives.

From earlier visits near Page, Arizona, we knew there were areas of photographic interest nearby.  So I made lodging reservations in Page, Arizona and began researching that area, finding many possibilities, some easy to get to and others that required longer and more careful travel on unmaintained roads.

Links to photos from a 2010 visit to areas west of Page, Arizona:

Hoodoo Area West of Page, Arizona

Toadstools West of Page, Arizona

XXX Hoodoo West of Page, Arizona

When the 2010 photos were taken, I was much more interested in hiking and seeing unusual geological features than in photography, so those images are not what I would expect to make today.

After all this planning, the Covid-19 pandemic became much more of a concern and we decided it best to cancel our plans.  I had not only been looking forward to seeing and photographing new landscapes areas, I also needed new photos for this blog.  So now I have to either dig up old photographs to continue a regular blog or suspend regular blogging, until such a time that I can get out and about safely to gather new materiel.

I am including a few links to sites with information about places we had hoped to get to and a few teaser photographs from the general areas.

Coal Mine Canyon by Jeanny Muller.

Marble Canyon by Dave Coppedge

On the positive side, I have plenty of research on these area and will be prepared for potential visits in the future.

Best wishes to you all and stay safe,

Ken

When there seems to be nothing of interest to photograph

During a stay in a rental house near Lake Cumberland in Kentucky, I took a walk down a steep, narrow road to scout the local area.  According to my map, there should be a portion of the lake within walking distance and I hoped to find a great scenic area to photograph.

As I hiked down the steep roadway, I began to think how glad I was not to be carrying heavy camera gear, since I could tell that the walk back up the steep incline would be strenuous.

There were woods on both sides of the roadway with a steep drop off into a drainage on one side.  As I walked along, looking for anything worthy of a photograph, I began to notice that the deep ravine had been used as a local dumping place for old appliances and automobile tires.  A practice, which I hope is now abandoned.  This drainage goes directly into Lake Cumberland and the pollution from those dumped items cannot be good for the health of the lake or those using it for recreation and as a water source.  Unfortunately, I know there must be many such dumping areas around this lake.

At a sharp curve in the paved road, I could see evidence of vehicle traffic continuing through the wooded area, so I left the paved roadway and walked along that path.  At the end of that beaten path was a circular area that had obviously been used as a campsite.

There was a faint foot path from the campsite downhill through the woods.  I followed that steeply dipping path and came to an area where I could see a wide open area, where I had hoped to find a Lake.  What I actually found was an overflow area for the lake, a broad muddy valley with a narrow stream of water cutting through it, with more evidence of dumped items, a large tractor tire, an automobile tire and widely scattered containers.  This was very disappointing, as I wanted to see a big body of water with interesting surroundings.

Nevertheless, I made a few iPhone photos with trees and rock outcrops in the foreground, hoping to be able to make something look interesting.  Nothing I did worked, until I looked down near where I stood on a rocky ledge at the edge of the overflow area. There I saw gnarly roots, leaves and exposed rocks from which I got this image.

Kentucky Roots
Gnarly roots in a Kentucky forest. iPhone photograph with edits in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik modules.

If this were a little later in the fall, the leaves would have been more colorful and made for a more interesting photo, but I still like the pattern of the roots, the color and texture of the roots and the color in the exposed rock near the upper left side.

Sometimes we just need to look down and around to find an interesting photographic composition.

Click on the image to view a better image on my Flickr page.

I hope you are all staying safe and well in the Cove-19 Pandemic,

Ken

Indiana Covered Bridges – October 2019 – Last Post in this Series

This is a continuation of my visits to Indiana covered bridges in October, 2019.  I am including multiple bridges in this post, due to the limited photographic opportunities at these bridges.

The Edna Collins Bridge (follow the link to read more about the haunting of this bridge) is a short bridge along a narrow paved roadway.  I parked on the side of the road, after getting out to check to be sure it was safe to pull onto the steeply dipping shoulder.

Edna Collins Covered Bridge. Nikon D850, Nikon 14-24mm @ 24mm, f/11, 1/200s, ISO 800, edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik modules.

There was no way to get down into the creek to shoot a side view.  The bridge is aligned approximately east-west, so shooting from the west side in the late afternoon was best.

Leaving Edna Collins, I drove to Crooks Bridge.  There is much confusion about the history of this bridge.  Follow the embedded link to read about it.  This seemed to be a popular bridge on one of the Covered Bridge Festival routes, as there was a fair amount of tourist traffic that I had to contend with as I looked for ways to shoot it.  My shots from one end at an angle to the bridge, resulted in a very tilted look that I could not adequately correct.  I also attempted to shoot from a low water, concrete crossing beside the bridge, but I could not get anything worth sharing from that perspective, looking into the afternoon sunlight.  Finally, I walked down the steep slope on the northwest corner of the bridge into the creek bed, from which I got this shot:

Crooks Covered Bridge. Nikon D850, Nikon 14-24mm @ 17mm, f/11, 1/400s, ISO 2500, edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik modules.

From Crooks Bridge, I continued to McAllister Bridge.   I parked at a pull off area and began to walk around the bridge checking out various view points before getting out my camera gear.  On my way back to the vehicle to get my gear, another car pulled up and a couple of ladies emerged and began walking towards the bridge.  As they passed me one said, “Houston”.  It was obvious that she had seen my Texas license plate.  I thought that she was asking, if I was from Houston, but she was actually telling me that she was from Houston and went on to say she was visiting relatives in the area.  I had lived in Katy, in the western portion of the greater Houston area and of course she knew about Katy.  Such a small world.

Shooting options at McAllister were limited.  I could see no way to get any interesting shots and I ended up with common views.  This image, shot from the edge of the roadway, looking up at the front and side of the bridge, is the most interesting perspective that I got.

McAllister Covered Bridge. Nikon D850, Nikon 14-24mm @ 24mm, f/11, 1/125s, ISO 125, edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik modules.

Continuing on my way, I stopped at Neet Bridge, but I could see no way to get interesting shots today, so I continued to Roseville.  I experienced the same at Roseville, but I did make a few images with my iPhone, drove across the bridge, just because I was there, turning around and crossing it again to head towards Harry Evans Bridge.

Roseville Covered Bridge. iPhone photo, edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik modules.

Many of the covered bridges have the “Cross this bridge at a walk” warning, but I saw no vehicles heeding this advice.  Most went much faster than I can walk and I can walk fast.

It was getting late in the day and the settings for the last few bridges that I visited were not interesting, so I did not bother getting out my DSLR and shot with my iPhone.  Some of these might be more interesting to shoot later in the fall or winter.

Harry Evans Covered Bridge. iPhone photograph, edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik modules.
Harry Evans Covered Bridge. iPhone photograph, edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik modules.

By the time I got to the Zacke Cox Bridge, it was very late in the afternoon and time to begin the drive back to my wife’s cousin’s house.

Zacke Cox Covered Bridge. iPhone photograph, edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik modules.

This is the last of the October, 2019 covered bridges posts.  Maybe I will get back to this area in the fall of 2020 and have opportunities  to see more of the covered bridges.

Until next time,

Ken

 

 

 

 

 

Indiana Covered Bridges – October 2019 – Dick Huffman Bridge

The third stop on day two of photographing Indiana covered bridges was the Dick Huffman Bridge.  I’m including a link to another bloggers site for his coverage of this bridge, rather than my usual links to an official government site.

Dick Huffman Covered Bridge. Nikon D850, Nikon 14-24mm @ 24mm, f/11, 1/160s, ISO 640, edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik modules.

As I was making my first shots of this bridge a number of vehicles crossed at intermittent intervals, stirring up dust, which I had to wait to clear.  One pickup truck stopped just passed the bridge.  The driver got out and walked towards the bridge.  As he passed, he said he was going to check the water flow.  I thought maybe he was doing some sort of official survey.  As I walked back through the bridge and was passing him, he explained that the following day was the youth duck hunting season opening and that he was taking his son duck hunting by putting a boat in at another location and floating down the creek.  He had hopped to not have to paddle the boat, but the flow looked very minimal, so he was going to have to paddle down the creek.

Dick Huffman Covered Bridge. Nikon D850, Nikon 14-24mm @ 14mm, f/11, 1/160s, ISO 250, edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik modules.

The bridge is not really leaning as much as it appears in the above photograph.  Shooting from this angle the wide angle distortion accentuates the tilt and I could not remove it without tilting the roadway in the process.

Back on the other side of the bridge, I walked through the wooded area bordering the creek and found a way to get down into the creek.  It was a little muddy along the creek edge, but I managed to avoid the worst of the mud.  However, I had a limited area in which I could move around in the muddy channel, unless I wanted to get really muddy.

Dick Huffman Covered Bridge. Nikon D850, Nikon 14-24mm @ 16mm, f/11, 1/125s, ISO 250, edited in Adobe Lightroom and DxO Nik modules.

The log makes a good leading line object, but I wish I could have gotten closer to the bridge.

Until next time,

Ken